New Life for a truck passed its prime

[flattopwill]

Well then hopefully after i cut out the old trans harness I will be done removing the old wires?
I definitely need to find the FP relay. Is it on the junction block on firewall?

[low91]

Well then hopefully after i cut out the old trans harness I will be done removing the old wires?
I definitely need to find the FP relay. Is it on the junction block on firewall?

Just to the right of the junction block.

[flattopwill]

Just to the right of the junction block.

THANKS

[flattopwill]

Update.
First. Im pissed at Thunder Racing right now. I ordered my cam last monday. The said it was on backorder so I called them to cancel my order so I could order from somewhere else and get it ASAP. They said they were getting them the next day and would ship 1-2 day shipping. I called yesterday to make sure it had shipped and they said they wont get it til tomorrow!! I wanted it on my doorstep yesterday! This is major player in my process and is holding me up! End rant.

Today I did a mock install. My wiring buddy Tim gave me a bad 5.3 block, 5.3 heads, 5.3 intake and rail to put in as a mock setup and test fitment. Results:
Good:
DRIVE SHAFT IS CORRECT LENGTH!!
Headers will work but drivers side is only bout two inches away from shift arm.
If I get tired of waiting on TR I can go ahead an install the motor then put cam in.
Bad:
Shift linkage is to long between the frame rail and shift arm.
Current shift arm is not compatible with neutral-safety switch.
New holes will have to be drilled in frame for new trans crossmember location. (no biggie)
DBW pedal will not be such a simple bolt in installation. May require drilling new holes and/or shortening the pedal arm.

If you have solutions for the bad please speak up. A quick search yielded unhelpful results.

Pics:





There is enough room to change the cam after I install the engine if I need to.




You can see here how close the header is to the shift arm.


Although I barely got it in there, being smashed all the way in like it is puts it in a bind to shift. Also, when the arm rotates it hits the wire loom on the frame rail.


You might be able to see here that this arm is not compatible with a neutral safety switch.

[RedHeartbeat]

you don't need a neutral safety switch, its built into the factory column. That is exactly how my 80e is setup and working fine.

[flattopwill]

you don't need a neutral safety switch, its built into the factory column. That is exactly how my 80e is setup and working fine.

OH. So doesnt the 5.3 ecm need a signal from a NS switch?