also if your going T56 and plan to make it leave hard you will need a rearend. when i first when t56 i stepped up to a 14bolt did this option as it was a direct swap, now if i was doing it again i would go 9"
right off the bat, the stock pedal and master setup isnt designed for any heavy clutch. youll brake the pedal every time with a stiff clutch. were the master cylinder connects to the pedal is plastic and nothing more then a square hole. when you have a heavy clutch it just flexs way to much and ends up being pushed thru the fire wall. the solution is to get a master cylinder that has a mounting plate. Cut apart the stock pedal and double plate the fire wall and mount the master to the firewall and not the pedal. also non manual trucks dont have the necessary bracket to hold the top of the pedal sturdy. youll need to remove the dash and weld the proper bracket. not doing this will cause the pedal to distort and often cause the pedal to shift to the side when trying to disengage.
i recommend using the Tick performance C5 master cylinder as it works very well uses a 7/8 bore and all -4 line with no restrictors in it. the stock line is only 3/16 but has series of 1/16 restrictors in it, the bore of the stock master just doesnt have enough volume to properly disengage heavy clutches
ive gone thru 3 pedals, 2 master cylinders in my trial and error trying to get this T56 to work properly....so dont cut corners and dont act liek this joe smoe has no clue. im speaking from actual experience
as for the trans a simple upgrade will work for modest power its when you go above 500 do i recommend the heavy upgrades to the trans. you can get away with a stock bell housing but ive seen to many incidents where the clutch exploded. the SFI bell housing is cheap insurance to save your legs and nice piece of mind.
i loved my ls7 clutch but knew it wasnt going to hold with slicks and my current power level
the RAM VDS puck clutch sucked, was a pure on and off clutch, chattered and was a beast to disengage
the spec twin disk, holds very well but does take some train of thought to get it to engage smoothly
The Nv3500 is a pure truck trans, doesnt shift no were near as well or fast as a t56, theres a reason they used that trans behind v6s and 4.8s orignally
also get a good shifter that has external adjustable stops and make sure to set them properly. the long extension that is needed to a shifter rod to work in the truck puts a lot of over throw on the internals. using a good shifter with stops prevents the over throw and wont break the sliders in the trans
ive been thru the internals of the T56 a few times and have built mine recently.
if you using a stock trans, upgraded the plastic pads on the shift forks, upgrade to a steel shift fork, even built trans come with the plastic pads, costly but is worth it is to upgrade to the bronze as they dont tend to break and then you wear the fork. when they break they will eat up syncros