You can go up to 0.035 off the heads without alignment issues and as always you should check PTV. But that cam wont have any issues with clearance!
Type: Posts; User: DBRODS
You can go up to 0.035 off the heads without alignment issues and as always you should check PTV. But that cam wont have any issues with clearance!
317s or 243/799 would work. I would prefer to see the 243/799 heads due to the increase in compression and added NA power as George stated. The chambers on my heads on my L33 5.3 are 64cc. That...
Yeah replacing rod bolts is a gimmick also. If I turn the boost up over a certain level I can guarantee it will bend the rods up as I've done it a few times. Usually everyone blames the rod bolts...
I would deck the heads before touching the block. A stock l33 piston is gunna stick out of the hole around 0.006. If you knock off 0.020 that only leaves you with .0.025 between the piston and head...
You are completely wrong. A bad tuneup kills ring lands and bearings. The stock rods will bend up before a piston has a failure or a rod bolt lets go.
Sold!!!
Jakes D3 transbrake for a 4l80E 97 and newer. I swapped to a D1 brake and no longer need it. It was only used for a few months. Ill take 450.00 shipped. I payed 650.00 new. Also comes with a...
I broke a input shaft a few weeks ago and it still had Park. No forward gears or reverse. Just a FYI
The pumps start at 550.00, then a high flow regulator to mach it probably 200.00 and a crank mandrel is 200.00 with belts and pulleys. Then it needs huge fuel line for feed -12 or bigger. It adds...
They don't make anything above a 800lb spring in a 10". The 8" spring has more options all the way up to 1200lb. There is no ride quality difference between a 8" or a 10". I've tested many combos.
Good to see that took care of the issue. The belt drive gets a little pricey. It wont work with a stock crank pulley. You have to be able to mount a mandrel.
The notch is probably the issue with the line up high. I personally like to have electric pumps as close to the tank as possible. If you can get the high spots out pre pump with a lowered pump you...
Heres what my fuel system consist of and locations. Sorry if its a little dirty, street truck. I ended up adding a inline small pump that is wired to the starter solenoid. The Belt driven pump...
With my setup I had issues keeping the pump primed with the fuel line running along the frame next to the cnotch. The line is so high right there that it would create a air pocket and then the pump...
I'd like to see the pump a little lower than that. Maybe 3-4" lower.
Yup, I love my belt driven pump.
I thought those were yours but couldn't remember. Yeah that pump placement is fine. Even a inch or two higher would still be ok. Just be sure to keep at least a 1/4 tank when doing wot pulls to be...
Pretty much in this position.
http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk272/dbrods/408B6A2C-EB94-4CE9-8154-AB0006DE8A3E-4770-000001A816919283.jpg
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Can you mount the pump off one of the fuel cell mounts. Maybe make a plate that can bolt to one of the mounting tabs on the cell. Almost right where the hose clamp is at in your pic? I thought you...
If you could mount it behind the tank hanging down it would be ideal. Get it as close to the bottom of the tank as possible. Definitely sounds like its a little high.
Awesome!!!
Sorry I was out on vacation last week. Sent ya a email Jared!!
Thats Badass!!!! Congrats again. We tried everything to get that thing to hook on radials but the split is too much!! The Poly bushings have held mid 1.30s consistently on our street/strip stuff...
That s10 has been high 8s.
Thank you sir, but I cant take all the credit. SC the original owner did a lot of the work himself.
Thanks its never too far for something that works!!!! Plus...
Congrats!!! Im glad to see the stock 5.3 is still running strong. It was a sad day when SC sold it but sure is nice to see it doing what it was built for. Turn the boost up to 25-26psi and let it...