"5-angle valve job" What does that do?
Where can I have it done? is it very difficult? expensive?
Thanks!!
"5-angle valve job" What does that do?
Where can I have it done? is it very difficult? expensive?
Thanks!!
06' Silverado RCSB 5.3L 4wd..
PERFORMANCE: Cam, Springs, Pushrods, P&P heads & 3 angle valve job, Injectors, PS LT's & ORY, Nelson Tune, Catback, CAI, Comp Cam Double Timing Chain, HP Oil Pump, UD Pullies, ARP bolts, Stall, TBS, 4.10's, Iridium NGK's, G-80, 160 t-stat, HD-2 & Vette Servo, 46,000 tranny cooler, 75-125hp shot of funny Gas..
HID's Hi, Lows & Fogs
Waiting to be installed: LC-1 WB & Standalone system
It refers to the angles on the valves and valve seats. The more angles the smoother the transition from chamber to cylinder for the air/fuel mixture. As far as cost, depends on the machine shop. Be prepped to pull the heads.
lots of performance gains??
Is it very hard to get it done??
$$$???
06' Silverado RCSB 5.3L 4wd..
PERFORMANCE: Cam, Springs, Pushrods, P&P heads & 3 angle valve job, Injectors, PS LT's & ORY, Nelson Tune, Catback, CAI, Comp Cam Double Timing Chain, HP Oil Pump, UD Pullies, ARP bolts, Stall, TBS, 4.10's, Iridium NGK's, G-80, 160 t-stat, HD-2 & Vette Servo, 46,000 tranny cooler, 75-125hp shot of funny Gas..
HID's Hi, Lows & Fogs
Waiting to be installed: LC-1 WB & Standalone system
There will be a slight gain over a 3angle valve job, but not worth it IMO A 5angle valve job is a waste for a street driven vehicle as the contact the valve makes with the seat is substantially smaller due to the added angles making things wear quicker.
I'm not sure what cost is now, but a few years ago I paid somewhere around the $200 through a local machine shop for just the valve job, but i did all of the labour and removed the heads/stripped them, and also had quite a bit of other work done at the same time.
yeah.. my truck will be a daily drive.. so I might go with the 3angle..
06' Silverado RCSB 5.3L 4wd..
PERFORMANCE: Cam, Springs, Pushrods, P&P heads & 3 angle valve job, Injectors, PS LT's & ORY, Nelson Tune, Catback, CAI, Comp Cam Double Timing Chain, HP Oil Pump, UD Pullies, ARP bolts, Stall, TBS, 4.10's, Iridium NGK's, G-80, 160 t-stat, HD-2 & Vette Servo, 46,000 tranny cooler, 75-125hp shot of funny Gas..
HID's Hi, Lows & Fogs
Waiting to be installed: LC-1 WB & Standalone system
If you have the motor apart for a big build and you're putting on ported heads, etc. it makes sense. If you're considering this by itself it makes no sense to do.
Good explanation Nate.Originally Posted by GasGuzzler
Yeah, but I think he is wanting to go FI, so the will be building it slightly. Since he is going FI, once you take the heads off and have them cleaned up, make sure to get GM metal head gaskets and get some ARP head studs--they are not TTY and are stronger than the stock ones. It is a good idea to use them with boost.
2000 ECSB 6.0L
TORQUER V2 CAM ● COMP 918's ● 7.4 HARDENED PUSHRODS ● K&N SERIES 77 CAI ● 80mm BBK ●PACESETTER LT HEADERS AND 3'' ORY ● SUPER 40 FLOW ● 3000 STALL ● 4.10s ● BUILT 80e ● VORTEC PERFORMANCE TUNE ● MSD 8.5mm PLUG WIRES● ELEC. CUTOUT ● UD & ALT PULLEYS ● FLEX-A-LITE E-FANS ● 22" CENTERLINE STINGRAY III's ● LUND FIBERGLASS TONNEAU ● 2" LEVELING SHACKLES ● 12K HID LOWS & FOGS ● LEDs ● DEBADGED ● WHITE-FACED ESCALADE GAUGES ● KICKER 450.1 ● 2-CVR 10's ● DS60's ● K693's
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