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The internal linkage was not hooked up. Why that was so, I don't know. I do know that Stricker Auto on Ebay sold me the trans and it was supposed to be out of a running vehicle. It could not have been running in that condition. Somebody opened up the pan and most likely removed the valve body. Also, the GM Mechanic said there was no valid software on the TCM. He thought it was a new TCM. Why HPtuners was reporting an OS on the TCM I have no idea.
Anyways, she's running great right now! I still have a few cleanup items to do in the engine bay. Nothing that will keep me from driving it, but some things are mounted with zip ties; I need to make permanent mounts. Also, I still need to get Cruise and TU/TD functioning.
I have new mufflers coming today. Still Dynomax VT's, but a different model. The ones I have--the ones specified for dual exhaust on their website--have horrible drone. I called Dynomax and they told me the ones I have are wrong, I need a different model with a stronger spring for my engine. It would be nice if that information was on their website...
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Well it's been a couple of months... The truck is running outstanding. I switched mufflers to a different Dynomax VT; simply outstanding sound now. Very quiet until you get on it and then a very nice roar. I'll post part numbers soon, suffice it to say that the Dynomax application chart is wrong. Even their tech support says so. Anyways, I switched to the mufflers specified for single exhaust for a 6.2L. The sound is just perfect with my dual exhaust.
I've got a lot to post; there's a lot I've learned and I want to put it up here for the next guy to use. It's been a hectic summer, but the rains are coming and I'll have time to post again soon.
I'm going to start a new thread on the electronic dash. I'm using it as my main cluster right now, but it's just mounted on a bracket. I'll fab up a permanent mount this winter. There's a lot I've learned about how to go about setting one of these up as a primary dash. Most people use them as a secondary display, so I've had to do a bit to get it right. The software developers have heeded a few of my suggestions, and the next version should be much better as a primary display. Meanwhile, the cost is much less than Dakota Digital and the display is gorgeous. (I've improved it from what I posted.) If you have the fabrication skills I think this is a great alternative to mechanical/stock gauges.
Here's the video of starting her up for the first time. It took a bit of time and she ran pretty rough for a few minutes. After that though, she ran just great! I'll get a 0 - 60 video up soon along with some pics of my fan control setup and cooling plumbing..
http://<a href="https://youtu.be/sUL...ULYU3LII5E</a>
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2 Attachment(s)
Here's the latest version of my dash. Needle positions and numbers are random and nonsensical in these screen shots. The upper four gauges turn red individually when out of safe operating limits. The crosshatch pattern over the speedo and the red push button top center appear if the connection is lost to the ECM. Pushing the button initiates a connection attempt immediately, or one will be made automatically in 30 seconds. The low fuel warning appears at and below 3 gallons fuel remaining. 0 Gallons displayed is when the engine dies due to fuel starvation, no reserve, no guessing exactly how much fuel is left. Touching the upper half of the speedo switches to Metric. Touching the A MPG window resets average MPG. DTE (Distance To Empty) is based off fuel remaining and Average MPG displayed. Touching the Trip Odometer resets that to 0. The large digit on the left of the tach is the commanded gear. I removed Engine Oil Temp because there is no sensor--it's calculated by the ECM. Inaccurate because I have a large oil cooler the ECM doesn't know about. "V4 Mode Active" appears above the clock--along with a blue light right below the "I MPG" window--when DOD kicks in.
It's running off of a Bluetooth connection now, but will be hard wired off of a USB connection when I mount the cluster permanently. The USB connection is faster--smoother needle movement and faster connections--and more reliable. The Samsung Tab S 10.5 is easily visible under all lighting conditions including direct sunlight with these colors. It is especially attractive under moderate and lower light levels.
Anyways, that's it so far! I'll include a video later.Attachment 9860Attachment 9859
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Congrats on a successful swap! Very interesting thread, full of excellent info and observations! Good luck with the flat panel display.
BTW, here's another place to get nylon wire loom. A little late I know but just for future reference and others.
http://www.cabletiesandmore.com