Real dumb question probably...

OK, so I'm needing to pull that inspection plate off the tranny to see if the paint on the torque converter is burnt. Two things:

Is there a trick to getting that cover off so I don't ruin it?

And I know you need a small telescoping mirror to inspect the converter, but can you see the whole converter from one spot or do you need to rotate it somehow? OR if the paint IS burnt, would it just be burnt all the way around? I would assume that would be the case. I would think it would burn uniformly....?

Are you talking about the round stamped steel inspection cover on the bottom of the bell housing? It's just cheap stamped stainless. Take a flat blade screwdriver to it and pry it out. It has three long tangs that hold it in place by friction only.

I think you only have to inspect the outside area because the clutches are in that location. They put some kind of temperature sensitive paint that discolors if the clutches slip and burn up under heavy load.

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(RedHeartbeat &#064; Jan 13 2007, 11&#58;48 AM) [snapback]79593[/snapback]</div>

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Are you talking about the round stamped steel inspection cover on the bottom of the bell housing? It&#39;s just cheap stamped stainless. Take a flat blade screwdriver to it and pry it out. It has three long tangs that hold it in place by friction only.

I think you only have to inspect the outside area because the clutches are in that location. They put some kind of temperature sensitive paint that discolors if the clutches slip and burn up under heavy load.
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Always there when I need ya - thanks Greg&#33;

OK....pulled both inspection plates off and could see the front and rear of the converter pretty good and it looks brand new - no burn marks or anything. Looks like it just came out of the box.

So next thing Fuddle suggested was an additive to increase viscosity - any recommendations?

Do they want you to run type F fluid through a transmission designed for DexronIII? I&#39;d be leary of that. Orielly has some additives that I run in addition to the DIII. I&#39;ll see if I can find what it is.



This is what I buy...

Lubegard 61910

Highly Friction Modified ATF Supplement
by LUBEGARD (10 oz.)

http://www.autobarn.net/auttranfluid.html

He didn&#39;t name a brand, he just said try an additive to increase viscosity. I&#39;ll make a run and see if I can&#39;t find one of the ones you mentioned. Surely someone carries that or similar.

If the additive doesn&#39;t work, the next step is a shift kit with the valve that eliminates/reduces the Pulse Width Modulation.

Be nice if an additive would fix it though.

Danny&#39;s mom was showing me some stuff one day at o&#39;riley.... i will go take a look at it... which reminds me i need to get some.... but ill let you know what it is that it was...

Should I try the ShudderFixx with that as well (also made by LubeGard)?

never heard of it. Sounds like a thinner/cleaner. I&#39;d be wary about too many different additives. If you use the shudder fixx, I&#39;d change the fluid after about 500 miles and get as much out of it as possible. If they have a tech support line, I&#39;d call them and see if they can recommend an additive. Duragard is some good stuff. I had the transmissioncenter.com Raptor blood additive in my 92 truck and it shifted nice and strong, not hard. The trans in the 93 shifts just as solid with no current additives, flushed the old stuff out two fluid changes ago.

www.lubegard.com
Email us: contact@lubegard.com

Addresses:
7930 Occidental S.
Seattle, WA 98108 PO Box 24743
Seattle, WA 98124

Telephone:

1-800-333-LUBE(5823)
1-206-762-5343
FAX: 206-762-7989
Hours of Operation:

8-5 PST M-F

OK...well O&#39;Reilly&#39;s had both products - I got the ShudderFixx and the Highly Friction Modified-ATF Supplement. I added both before reading your post Greg, about being leery of adding too many.

So I added both, and then drove the truck for about 15 minutes.

Now normally, I can get it to shudder pretty easy - get up around 50mph, coast for a while and then gently feather the gas, and it will shudder. I tried doing that multiple times and couldn&#39;t get it to do it&#33; So I&#39;m extremely hopeful that the problem is fixed. I&#39;ll likely still get the TransGo HD shift kit installed, but as of right now, everything seems to be functioning properly. Thanks a million for advice Greg, I appreciate it.

Sounds like it may have fixed what was wrong. :thumb:

...... and it didnt even need a driver modification&#33;&#33; good job Moze :thumb:

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(TxStVanWilder &#064; Jan 13 2007, 02&#58;08 PM) [snapback]79628[/snapback]</div>

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...... and it didnt even need a driver modification&#33;&#33; good job Moze :thumb:
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Yeah now maybe you&#39;ll be reading MY license plate next time down the track&#33;

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(RedHeartbeat &#064; Jan 13 2007, 02&#58;07 PM) [snapback]79627[/snapback]</div>

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Sounds like it may have fixed what was wrong. :thumb:
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Hope so - we&#39;ll see if it holds up. Time will tell I guess.

Thanks again man,I appreciate the help. :hshake:

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(DamnYankee &#064; Jan 13 2007, 02&#58;31 PM) [snapback]79629[/snapback]</div>

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Yeah now maybe you&#39;ll be reading MY license plate next time down the track&#33;
Hope so - we&#39;ll see if it holds up. Time will tell I guess.

Thanks again man,I appreciate the help. :hshake:
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Well time has told and it hasn&#39;t held up. The additives did the trick for about a day or two, and now it&#39;s back to chattering again.

So (from my understanding) the HD shift kit is my next option with the hope that the PWM valve reduces/eliminate the chattering.

If that doesn&#39;t do the trick, I&#39;ll need to change the converter under warranty. My worry is if the next converter does the same thing. Then I have the additional expense of swapping to a new one.

Thoughts?