What gears

Ive been trying to look up all the info on here about doing a gear swap but im having trouble deciding on how to go about getting new gears.

I will be installing the gears myself as i am on a budget. I was looking for advise on who to buy the gears from, what brand gears, if the G80 will hold up. What not to buy, and any tips that will make the install go quicker. I have a 14 bolt so i think its got a 9.5" gear if im not mistaken. IM having a hard time finding gears that will fit my truck. Seems that nobody believes me when i tell them its a 14 bolt in a half ton truck. One guy even went so far as to tell me i couldnt count when i called him loking for gears!

I plan on a 150 shot later on in life so i was wondering if the G80 will hold up to mild nitrous use the few times i go to the race track every year.

Im trying to get gears, and headers before i get my truck retuned.

Im still looking for low 13's before the spray. Any info would be greatly appreciated

I would replace the G80 since so many have failed. Go on Ebay and you'll find used limited slip differentials available there for around $100. Nobody seems to make gears better than those that GM installs. A factory set of take-out gears should work fine for you if you can find a set in the range you desire. Richmond gears are nice and quiet, also. 4wheelparts.com sells the Genuine Gear line and the prices are around $150 a set last time I checked. If you swap them yourself, start out with the exact same setting that the factory had on your old gear set. The factory parts maintain very tight tolerances on the rear ends and a lot of times you can swap gears and diffs with all the same shim packs from the original setup to the new one and you don't have to make any adjustment. The 14 bolt rear should be fully adjustable without buying any shims.

What trucks have the same axle i have? I think ill stick with the G80 for now as I really want to save for a locker or something.

Did someone say "Grenade 80?" :bash:

You will hear that statement as long as you own one of the few and least know about trucks..... "They did not make that!!!" :taunt:

The 14 bolt is a strong rearend, if you had to change out go for it, if it is working and not howling why change it now??? I have yet to hear of any VHO's destroy the guts. Let me speak so I can blow mine up! :lol: Now look at the welds on the housing/tube and see if yours is leaking. Found mine leaking and they are replacing the whole housing and reinstalling my guts in the new housing....... First they need to make the axle and send it :lol:

I am sure mine will blow...

I am waiting to see that.... :pics:

Yours is a 12 bolt? Ours is a 14 bolt......

Does size matter??? :taunt: :lol:

Badbowtievho says hi Jethro_3 :wave:

Badbowtievho says hi Jethro_3 :wave:

call chris at randy's ring and pinion in seattle washington at 1-866-631-0196, say that dave medley in spokane said to give you a smokin deal on a setup......www.ringpinion.com the 9.5" semi floating 14 bolt rear axle is a strong unit, they came 6 lug in the 7200gvw 1500 trucks and 8 lug in the 8600gvw 2500 and all hummer h2. the tubes can leak oil but some epoxy or silicone can fix that. the yukon gear brand has been extreamly good at installing easy and being quiet, you will need a shim kit when installing, the 9.5 has one shim on the left for backlash and a adjuster wheel on the right for preload. as for the g80,,, :thumbdown: the 9.5 is so big the governer assembly cant hold the side gears from turning. they only lockup when slowly apling power (not when drag racing), pluss when it brakes it frekin' explodes taking every thing out with it.... want a ultra cool setup??? shhhh dont tell anybody but if you call around to the wrecking yards and get a eaton e-locker from a h2 hummer (any years, they all came with one) it is electric push button traction. open or locked up solid. aka...street or drag... they fit but you have to fab one retainer for the coil assembly, not hard at all. good luck...

did the hummers come with 9.5" gears? what ratios come in Hummers? Do i need a locker from the front or the rear?

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(badseed91 &#064; Jun 27 2006, 11&#58;09 AM) [snapback]56420[/snapback]</div>

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did the hummers come with 9.5" gears? what ratios come in Hummers? Do i need a locker from the front or the rear?
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HUMMER H2 came with 4.10 gears, 9.5" rear 14bolt semi float axle with a eaton e-locker. front 9.25" gears and NO LOCKER. the front housing is different than a truck but the gears are the same. all HUMMER H2 came that way. it wasnt a option, no choice.

I wonder how much these e-lockers cost from a wrecking yard? That is definately interesting. Maybe i can wire it into my traction control button where when i push the button to turn the trac control off it locks the rear diff. Where do the wires run into the case for an e-locker?

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(badseed91 &#064; Jun 27 2006, 08&#58;56 PM) [snapback]56487[/snapback]</div>

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I wonder how much these e-lockers cost from a wrecking yard? That is definately interesting. Maybe i can wire it into my traction control button where when i push the button to turn the trac control off it locks the rear diff. Where do the wires run into the case for an e-locker?
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about 250.00 used, the wires enter through the left side upper part of the housing (you need to drill) as for the button, your on your own about the track button, if its a real track button thats hooked up to the track than i say no, if its just a button thats not part of the track system, than yes. i got one in my jeep and it kicks ass.

Hummertech, In the &#39;05 VHO we have the Traction Control.
1) If I swap the carrier from the H2 will the Traction Control still be functional?
2) Also since we have wires for the Traction Control already coming out of the housing will the Locker Wires fit next to them?

Correct me if I am wrong please but this Electric Locker sounds like a nice little set up

Thanks :thumb:

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(jethro_3 &#064; Jul 1 2006, 08&#58;58 AM) [snapback]56917[/snapback]</div>

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Hummertech, In the &#39;05 VHO we have the Traction Control.
1) If I swap the carrier from the H2 will the Traction Control still be functional?
2) Also since we have wires for the Traction Control already coming out of the housing will the Locker Wires fit next to them?

Correct me if I am wrong please but this Electric Locker sounds like a nice little set up

Thanks :thumb:
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ok...i havent got to tear apart a 05 yet... i cant find a picture with any wires comming out... where are they comming out of??? but what i did find that i dont like is a new 9.5"LD (i dont know what the ld stands for.. i hope its not light duty) as for the trac system it looks like its all engine torque related. send me a pm with your vin number and i will decode it to find out what axle is in it and do some research into it for now hear is the way the track works............(i dont think a e-locker will effect it at all)
Document ID# 1434942
2005 GMC Truck GMC K Sierra - 4WD


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Traction Assist System (TAS)
Your vehicle may have a Traction Assist System (TAS) that limits wheel spin. This is especially useful in slippery road conditions. The system operates only if it senses that one or both of the rear wheels are spinning or beginning to lose traction. When this happens, the system reduces engine power to limit wheel spin.

The traction control system is enabled every time your vehicle is started. The system will activate if it senses that any of the wheels are spinning or beginning to lose traction.

You may hear or feel the system working or notice a lack of accelerator response, but this is normal.

The Traction Assist System may operate on dry roads under some conditions. When this happens, you may notice a reduction in acceleration. This is normal and doesn&#39;t mean there&#39;s a problem with your vehicle. Examples of these conditions include a hard acceleration in a turn, an abrupt upshift or downshift of the transmission or driving on rough roads.

If your vehicle is in cruise control when the TAS begins to limit wheel spin, the cruise control will automatically disengage. When road conditions allow you to safely use it again, you may re-engage the cruise control. See Cruise Control .





When the traction off light is on, the TAS is off and will not limit wheel spin. Adjust your driving accordingly.

The traction off light will come on under the following conditions:

The Traction Assist System is turned off, either by pressing the TAS on/off button, located on the instrument panel, or by turning off the automatic engagement feature of the TAS.
The transmission is in FIRST (1); TAS will not operate in this gear. This is normal.
The vehicle is driven on an extremely rough road. When the vehicle leaves the rough surface, slows down or stops, the light will go off and TAS will turn on again. This is normal.
A Traction Assist System, Anti-Lock Brake System or engine-related problem has been detected and the vehicle needs service.
If the vehicle has been driven with the TAS system on for long periods of time, or if the vehicle has gone through many several high speed braking maneuvers the system may be automatically disabled. The system will automatically re-enable after approximately two minutes of not using the brakes.
See Traction Off Light .

The Traction Assist System, as delivered from the factory, will automatically come on whenever you start your vehicle. To limit wheel spin, especially in slippery road conditions, you should always leave the system on. But you can turn the TAS off if you ever need to. You should turn the TAS off if your vehicle ever gets stuck in sand, mud or snow and rocking the vehicle is required. See Rocking Your Vehicle to Get It Out and If Your Vehicle is Stuck in Sand, Mud, Ice or Snow .





To turn the system on or off press the TAS on/off button located on the instrument panel.

If you used the button to turn the system off, the traction off light will come on and stay on. You can turn the system back on at any time by pressing the button again. The traction off light should go off.

If desired, for a vehicle with QUADRASTEER™, you can change the TAS automatic engagement feature so that the system will not come on automatically when the engine is started. To do so:

Park the vehicle with the ignition off and the transmission in PARK (P) for an automatic transmission, or in gear for a manual transmission.
Turn the ignition to RUN; do not start the engine.
Apply the brake pedal, shift into NEUTRAL (N), press the accelerator pedal to the floor, then press the TAS on/off button and hold it down for at least six seconds.
Release the TAS button and both pedals.
Turn off the ignition and wait a few seconds.
The next time you start your vehicle, the TAS will not automatically come on. You can restore the automatic feature by repeating the same procedure. Whether the TAS is set to come on automatically or not, you can always turn the system on or off by pressing the TAS on/off button.


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I found just the carrier brand new for 299.00 is that a good deal?

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(badseed91 &#064; Jul 8 2006, 04&#58;08 PM) [snapback]57499[/snapback]</div>

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I found just the carrier brand new for 299.00 is that a good deal?
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not bad if it has the pull in coil and wire on it in tact. the coil is about 100.00 new.

Hummertech,

I got my truck back after a week of them installing the rear, having a leak, and wanting to play with truck.... :nono:

There are no wires out of the housing... I must have been halucinating that day :eek:

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(jethro_3 &#064; Jul 10 2006, 08&#58;53 AM) [snapback]57666[/snapback]</div>

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Hummertech,

I got my truck back after a week of them installing the rear, having a leak, and wanting to play with truck.... :nono:

There are no wires out of the housing... I must have been halucinating that day :eek:
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all 9.5 carriers seem to measure the same. it has to fit, i havent had time to run all the numbers at work (my parts department lacks) just to make sure the part numbers for the hummer bearings are the same as your truck side bearings. if you dont hear from me in a couple of days send me a pm, i check them at lunch, that will remind me to check on your numbers.

In the warrrenty paperwork I saw the all the bearing numbers as they replaced all but the outer bearings.

I will post them up tommorow.

Thanks