92 pickup 6.0 factory computer

I've looked at about 4 pages of threads and searched every wording I can think of. My question is do i have to run my trucks factory computer to make my dash work? Plug coming out of firewall on passenger side.......is it needed? Or can I run my wires straight to the driver side plug?

I have my ls computer mounted on gender under hood with my fuse/relay block. All I need is (power, switched power, fuel pump and ground) then my engine is stand alone. I'm running nv4500 trans. Don't care about abs (don't think it really has it like the later model trucks) I've already done the solid axle swap.

You don't need your factory computer I took mine out Just chase down your wires that go to the gauges and hook um up to the ls sensors you will need a different 3 wire temp sensor 2 wires for the LS computer and one for the guage I pretty sure that most of the wires you need are in the pass side firewall (been awhile) there is a power block next to relay center on the upper firewall that you can get your power from hope this helps

so i can basically do away with the plug on the passenger side? or does it need to stay? i have my old temp sensor cut and threaded into the passenger side head for the truck gauge. i just need to get oil pressure and then my powers to the fuses.

Is 58-60 psi the optimal fuel pressure for these engines? Doesn't need less or more? What about volume?

you need the ls temp sensor for the ls ecm

Quote:

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Originally Posted by mamu

Is 58-60 psi the optimal fuel pressure for these engines? Doesn't need less or more? What about volume?

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That is the proper fuel pressure. Your stock fuel lines are the correct size for the swap. Most of us use the vette filter/regulator and run just feed line to engine. You need a returnless style fuel rail for this setup. I left my old computer where it is.

I have the high flow fuel pump for like Camaro. back when I was running tbi. it shows 45 psi rite now. I already have the corvette regulator/filter in and plumbed up. I pretty much cut all the wires coming out of the firewall except the ac wires. im only having trouble finding the tach wire for my cluster. any idea?

AFAKI 45 psi is way too low for the LS. That may be "high flow" for a tbi but im pretty sure its not enough for the LS. just get a stock vortec, delphi 281, or walbro 255 and your good to go. and off the top of my head, im pretty sure the tach is a white wire....

Tach wire is the white wire that went to your distributor.

I'm looking at the gss340 walbro 255 pump. I know there's the 340,341,342. But I figured since the 340 showed to have the largest intake on the pump it would be best. Does it matter?

Throttle cable? Anyone have ideas that they have used that will work with that half moon wrap around style?

I used a 1999 chevy pickup throttle cable. I just had to file the hole going through the firewall for it to fit. It connects to your gas pedal like stock.

Like 99 half ton? I used the cable from the 2000 model the motor came out of. But it's just short enough to hold my throttle body open to about 1900 rpm

i need help with my clutch. im having issues with it not engaging the flywheel. I bought the sachs nfw1050 flywheel from rock auto for the 6.0l. now my trans is a nv4500 from a 97ish diesel Chevrolet. the clutch is a south bend single disc. my throwout bearing is internal. now the first time I mated them up didn't really notice anything wrong. then decided to pull the trans to put in the steel braded clutch line. the end of my throw out bearing tube had contacted my clutch disc. so I bought a new one and measured them. thinking that it was just my south bend clutch may be a little thicker I shaved less than .25" off the end of the tube. put it all back together but now with my foot off the clutch and it in gear it feels like your riding the clutch and slipping it. put it in gear and push the truck you can see and hear the clutch disc spinning.

now did I order the correct flywheel? or is it too thick causing my clutch to be too close to the trans? or do I have other issues?

Did you use a spacer?

And what year is the 6.0 you have?

no spacer. I believe the engine came from a 2000.

You have the wrong flywheel. The 99-2000 6.0 have a .4" longer crank flange than all the other LS engines. You need a flat 6.0 flywheel. The one you have is offset .4"

Do you have that part number? Anyone?

Na I don't have a clue man

ok thanks. anyone else? ive read the 05 1 ton flywheel would work? Im just tired of pulling all this stuff out so I only want to do it one more time!!!

I doubt it. All the 6.0 trucks after 2000 had the offset flywheel. You need a flywheel for a 99-00 6.0

rock auto and advance auto doesn't show a flywheel for 99-00 6.0 engine. I found this http://www.jegs.com/i/McLeod/673/460530/10002/-1

they also show a .200 and a .400 thicker flywheel.

That looks the same as the ram 1550 flywheel which is .4" offset. You need one that has 0 offset

Not sure where I seen it but someone makes an adjustable internal throwout bearing that you might be able to adjust for your setup.

http://www.novak-adapt.com/catalog/c...t_bearings.htm

I think I have located 1 2000 model 6.0 flywheel from a salvage yard. its the only one in the us that they showed. so we will see how it works in a few days.

no go. anyone have a local salvage yard that might have a truck like this in it? I'm almost out of options i guess.

You can either swap cranks or buy a newer motor. That's about you only other options....:rolly:

Found a flywheel in cali that is "suppose" to be for a 2000 truck. They said it is not for the 01 and later. Got it bought today will see when it comes in.