Stock R4 compressor MOD and E-fan hook up HOW TO

ok so ive started several threads trying to figure this all out and now i finally got everything hooked up and running and here is the final HOW-TO like i promised all consolidated into this one thread.

This is to get your factory R4 compressor/bracket from your TBI motor installed on the new LS transplant for very little money. This was done on my 95. I have to note that on all the aftermarket setups ive seen, they all say 94 and prior and none for 95 up. i personally dont know what the difference is between the years but they cant be all that different so i would think this will still work for pre-95... But dont quote me on that. it should at least get you very close.

Parts needed:
Portaband/sawzal/hacksaw/grinder - any or all will do
2-1/2" hole saw
1- M10 x 1.5 x 90mm bolt (3 washers are required otherwise bolt will bottom out or you can cut tip off bolt)
1- M10 x 1.5 x 20mm bolt (i had this from some part off the LS)
1 or 2 3/4" washers
1- 995k6 serpintine belt


First we have to trim some fat off the bracket. Take out the compressor by removing the 3 retaining bolts. there is one side on the bolt head that is ground flat which will allow it to slide past the clutch. Then remove the tensioner/pulley and idler pulley and hardware. Set the idler(smaller one) and bolt/spacer aside as this will be re-used. Now cut the lower and side portions of the bracket off and discard. I have a portable band saw which makes this really simple but a hack saw or sawzawl will work too, it will just takes more time im sure.
http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b1...821_111550.jpg

We will be using the stock LS tensioner which is in the way of the R4 bracket. So the bracket will need to be notched. This is where some of you may need to get creative. I used a hole saw (i think it was 2-1/2"). This was the most difficult part of the modifiction. I wish i could give an exact spot where to start the drill but just make sure the outside of the notch ends up close to what you see in the pic. Some touch up grinding may be necessary for clearance/adjustment. I cut all the way to the back wall of the bracket. No this dis not take away the structural integrity of it. The bracket is still very sturdy. Now just file all the sharp edges and your are ready for paint. Thats it for the bracket.
http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b1...821_112006.jpg

Next you will need to remove the LS tensioner off the water pump for minor trimming. Remove the pully and set it with the other idler pulley you put aside earlier. First is the extra chunk on the front which normally sits behind the grooved pully. We will be putting on the smooth idler pully from the old motor which will hit this unless cut off. again, portaband made this easy but grinder should work also.
http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b1...1_111936-2.jpg
You can see where i cut.
http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b1...821_111948.jpg
Plenty of clearance now.

Next will be to trim the little tab on the back down just a bit. I think its a support tab so i left that little bit left to help out.
http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b1...1_112141-1.jpg

We need to make a support brace next. It will be going from the pump bracket to the head. at the moment i am only using one brace and it seems to be very strong. but there is some vibration when the pump is running and i will probably be putting one going rearward and mounting it to a bolt hole on the side of the head. you may want to do this also but that is up to you as it works fine without it. i have all kinds of scrap metal laying around so i dug through and found a piece of 3/16-1/4" flat stock. i cut it around 6" long, drilled a hole in each end for the bolts and put about a 7/8" offset in it.
http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b1...904_165301.jpg
http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b1...904_165134.jpg
the third hole in the middle was already in the scrap steel but it doesnt affect anything.

Thats all the fabrication required. Now its time to install everything. First is to take the 20mm-ish bolt, put it through one end of your support brace and into the far right bolt hole in the head. This is much easier to do before pump bracket is in place. Dont tighten yet. Now take the 90mm bolt (and washers if you didnt cut tip off bolt) and put it through right side hole in pump bracket and into top left bolt hole in head as shown. Again do not tighten yet.
http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b1...4_190814-1.jpg
http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b1...904_190748.jpg
this is the reason for the huge notch. Fits nicely around the tensioner.

Next set the compressor in the bracket and push the 3 long bolts through. slip the support brace over the bolt and install the 3 nuts. All the hardware can now be tightened down. heres a bad pic of the support brace...
http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b1...4_190858-1.jpg

You can now put the pullies back on But you will be reversing them. The bearings are the same size. The smooth smaller TBI pulley goes on the LS tensioner. you might need 1 or 2 3/4" washers depending on thickness to space the pulley forward a bit. Mine was still slightly touching the tensioner. You will be re using the LS bolt but the front washer will be from the TBI pulley. This is the order:
http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b1...930_154303.jpg
http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b1...930_154340.jpg
This is the washer i had that slipped right over the boss.

Now put the LS grooved pulley on the R4 bracket where the smooth idler used to go. you will be using the TBI bolt and rear spacer and NO front washer. Its not needed. this is the order:
http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b1...930_154046.jpg

Last but not least is the Belt which took me 2 days of trial and error to figure out. Now this belt will work with the setup i have just mentioned. but if you change things, the belt will have to be changed as well. I ended up with autozone duralast part #995k6. i didnt want to get an expensive one in case things didnt line up and it ate the belt. So far so good. i dont notice any unusual wear and it doesnt slip at all. so i think you would be alright to go with a better brand as long as its the same length but thats your choice. Follow the belt in the pics for the propper re-routing i came up with:
http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b1...906_142905.jpg
http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b1...906_142831.jpg

The coolant hose gets super close to the belt and would flop around and started cutting into the hose. so a support will need to be made.
http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b1...906_142947.jpg
http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b1...927_141252.jpg
the support i made but im sure you can figure something out depending on your setup.

the stock hoses SHOULD work as the compressor is in almost the exact same position so modification of the hoses shouldnt be nesessary. But due to the location of my PCM and fuse block, i had to get my lines modified. Here is a pic for reference:
http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b1...930_165718.jpg

Im pretty sure that is all to get it mounted and running. If i remember something i will update. Next post will be for those running electric fans and how to hook them up to work with the AC.

If your running your clutch fan with a shroud then this wont apply to you. but for those of us using electric fans, there needs to be a way to have them turn on like they should under all conditions; engine temp- Low speed and High speed; AC control High speed.

If you have e-fans, they will both kick on "low speed" when engine temp reaches around 106°C (223°F) then high speed if temp reaches 110°C (230°F). The computer is what controls this on the LS motors. It also tells the fans to kick on High speed any time the AC is activated. The problem with this is that unless your swap has ALL of the data lines and computers (pcm,bcm,tcm) there is no way to tell the pcm when the ac is activated as its input is by DATA and not a 12v or ground source. you can read more into that in this link http://www.ls1truck.com/forums/lsx-t...tegration.html there is a possible solution at the end which one of thee days i would like to try but i need to find a tuner with the correct software. so untill then, i have came up with a simple and effective solution.

List of parts to get it running

1) 2 - S.P.S.T relays rated above the amperage of your fans for Low and High speed operation
2) 1 - S.P.D.T relay for switching between speeds
3) 1 - S.P.S.T relay for AC high speed bypass
4) 3 - 50V 1amp silicone rectifier diodes

If you already have your fans up and running like this then all you need is #3 & 4 to add to the circuit for the AC bypass

This is the diagram to make the two fans work with the engine temperature. If your adding fans, you will need to add two pins to the pcm and have the pcm programmed to control the fans. pin 42 Blue = low speed, pin 33 green/red = high speed
http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b1...ans_rodder.jpg


Now we want to keep that circuit for normal driving but if we want to turn on the AC, the fans need to kick on High no matter what as long as the AC is being called for in order to cool the condenser. so what were are going to do is add another relay to override the existing circuit and 3 protections diodes. Here is my new revised diagram:
http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b1...ans_modify.jpg
The red wires are the only wires that were added and the new relay is the one in the lower right corner. The green triangles for those not familiar with electrical diagrams are the 3 diodes, D1-D3.

If you follow the circuit, im picking up a positive 12v that actuates the compressor clutch. we are just tapping into that to tell the new relay when to actuate so it wont draw much current. this is where i grabbed the power from.
http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b1...930_175013.jpg
i soldered a splice into the blue wire coming off the back high pressure switch. This allows the fans to keep running even if the switch opens during cycling since your still calling for it inside the cab. That way air is still being pulled through the condenser and the fans dont keep kicking on and off.

When the new relay is actuated, it allows a ground to go to all 3 original relays (completely bypassing the computer) in turn forcing them to actuate and put the fans in high speed. wahoo right? its working! well what do the diodes do you ask? well D1 and D3 are there to protect the pcm. Diodes are directional only letting electricity to flow one way. i know this is a ground path from the pcm but i am tapping into a circuit that goes directly to the pcm and i dont want any unwanted voltage (accidents happen) backfeeding into it. D1 and D2 are not NESESSARY for the fans to work but they are there for MY piece of mind and i HIGHLY suggest you use them too so you dont risk harming your expensive PCM.

D2 on the other hand is necesary.... Ask me how i know... lol. Anyway, If you dont have it, when the pcm supplies the ground for the low speed, it will go to the low speed relay but it will also travel through all your newly added wires and actuate the other 2 relays thus kicking them into High even though the pcm is telling them low. The diode will stop the ground from going to the switching/high speed relays during low speed, but allow the ground to come the other way from your new BYPASS relay for the AC.... If this is a bit confusing to you, dont worry, just hook it up like in the diagram and you will be good to go.

just remember the diodes are DIRECTIONAL so polarity matters. i put a positive and negatice symbol on each side of the diodes in my diagram so you know which way to solder them in. The cathode is the negative side and on the actual diode itself has a grey line on one side. The side with the gray line is the cathode (negative side). Here is a pic of the Package:
http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b1...927_163552.jpg

another note to add is that another thing the pcm would do when it got a signal saying the AC was called for was that it raised the RPM of the motor a bit to compensate for the load of the pump. Ive heard of guys having problems with idling while the pump is actuated and some dont.... I have a LQ9 in mine. I dont know if the added torque of the 6.0 is what makes it OK or if im just lucky or what. but it will not stall out at a stop in gear. BUT it does cause a slight vibration throughout the truck like its struggling a little bit. if i give it a LITTLE bit of gas, the vibration goes away. so i think im going to have my tuner raise the idle a bit to help compensate for this. But remember this will raise the idle constantly even without the AC. I think i can live with that since it wont be much. Just something to think about. Hope this helps some of you out. I sure am enjoing my AC.

Just finished this same set up today. I had to change the pulleys around in my set up so that the belt doesn't touch itself when passing thru the idle pulleys and the water pulley. I also was able to heat the base of the upper water neck of the water pump and turn it slightly, so I would have clearance and it would not rub on the belts or pulleys. I moded the brackets that were used on the bottom of my old trans and old 4.3. I heated them with a torch til they glowed red hot and hit them with a sledge hammer. I did a front and rear bracket for the a/c compressor.

http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/...ps53ae0e40.jpg


http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/...psebabdae4.jpg

http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/...ps81b1de11.jpg

I would let the pcm control the fans based on ac pressure and speed like stock. Cooling fans dont normally need to be on high and they dont need to be on above 30 mph for anything.

nice man. its a hell of a lot cheaper and more gratifying doing it yourself huh? congrats. your rearward brace is exactly the one i want to add. hopefully it will help stop the vibration. i got my scanner out today and did some testing. she idles without AC right at 600. as soon as i kick the AC on, idle drops to about 450 but she will raise right back up on her own. same thing when in gear. so im thinking the vibration is from the bracket moving around a bit. so i will get that second support on there asap.

question though. why did you need to turn the waterneck? your belt is routed WAY below it.... But anyway, its good to see another setup on here. what year is that for? 95+?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Oldspimp

I would let the pcm control the fans based on ac pressure and speed like stock. Cooling fans dont normally need to be on high and they dont need to be on above 30 mph for anything.

---

The pcm still does controls the fans like stock. the only thing i did was make them turn on high when the AC is on. do you have another suggestion on where i should tie the wire in that would actuate the BYPASS relay and any reason why that would be of better benefit than what i have shown? The only benfit i could maybe see is that they wouldnt be on constantly... ????

Nice write-up kewl, im subscribing for future refrence.
Mine right now is routed just like droopy, I mean exactly down to the blue tape closing up the water pump ports lol.
He turned the neck not for belt clearance but for the tensioner to clear.


Droopy what pullies did you swap and what size belt did you use if you dont mind me asking.
I need a belt and to turn my water neck still.

And oldspimp, the ls computer needs to have the ac signals from the original vehicles ac ccontrollers.
Thats not easy to do on these older trucks since most of their ac signals are voltage + and - signals not serial data that the ls pcm requires.

Thats exactly why I turned the water neck. For pulley clearance. As far as the belt goes, I forgot. !! Actually Mickeymotormount was the one who told me the part number and I went to the auto part store. They did not have the exact one but cross referenced it and it fit perfectly. I also got a clothes line and wrapped it around the pulleys the way I wanted it routed and that was the same size that mickey stated.

As for the idler pulleys, I simply mixed and matched the ones from the 5.3 set up and the ones off my old 4.3 tbi pulleys and they worked perfectly.

Nice write-up on the A/C 'Jay. Just goes to show you, there's more than one way to skin a cat.

Droopy did the same setup as I did. He used the original 4.3/5.7 liter tensioner. That requires turning the water neck some for clearance. And by comparing pics I noticed that your compressor is higher and closer to the water neck than ours.

I guess I skipped over the data line part of the thread. I thought it was just a matter of adapting high and low pressure switches and sending signal to the pcm, my bad. It just seems wasteful to me to have the fans on high when your on the hi-way cause all thats doing is slowing down air flow. I bet relays could be directly wired to pressure switches for a little more control over the fans, I think some old school switches are even adjustable.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Mickeymotormount

Nice write-up on the A/C 'Jay. Just goes to show you, there's more than one way to skin a cat.

Droopy did the same setup as I did. He used the original 4.3/5.7 liter tensioner. That requires turning the water neck some for clearance. And by comparing pics I noticed that your compressor is higher and closer to the water neck than ours.

---

hey mickey!!! haha i know you read my writeup of this in my build thread so thanks again for the compliment! but i took bestills suggestion to make a writeup on it so everyone could see and possibly get stickied, since theres not many threads about making the ac working for our trucks. so i made it more detailed. but your right, there are many ways of doing this. jsut thought id share my way since i think its a really easy and cheap way of getting it going. just trying to give back to everyone that made this whole swap possible for me you know?

looks like droopy and fabi had the same idea. hey mickey, how is yours done? you never really specified.. is it like theirs? i posted this thread to show how i did since its pretty simple to do but if any of you want to show how you did it i could care less if you use this thread to give details. the more the better for the comunity.

@ oldspimp... i see what your saying about the air movement at highway speeds by slowing it down. makes sense. but my 2 16" fans can move some serious air at full speed so i dont think it will hinder it that much but its still a valid observation. i did try and utilize the pressure sensors to control the relays and i couldnt figure out exactly when they would switch on and off. the one on the condenser and the high pressure on the back of the pump. also not all the pumps have the high pressure sensor on the back. depends on the setup that your year truck has. so i figured having the fans on anytime the ac was called for would be more on the safe side. thats why i was asking if you had any suggestions on where else to hook the wire up. im open to suggestions.

i just know that how i have it set up works great and that is why i shared. keep the other solutions coming though for the rest of us.

id still like to know what year truck you have droopy. is it a 95+ or 94-???

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by kewljay223

id still like to know what year truck you have droopy. is it a 95+ or 94-???

---

Mine is a simple basic, plane Jane 1994 W/T (work truck). No cruise, no power locks, driver side window is manual but passenger is power (go figure). I do have the luxury of the a/c though. I still have to wire it and the e-fans. I love the write up u did. Just all the schematics kinda shares the hell out me. I thought I was done with the schematics when I went thru the truck's wiring and LS stand alone harness !! My e fans are a simple two wire generic from ebay with two 4 wire relays. They are up next for wiring. I had the pcm reprogrammed from the guy from lt1swap.com and he added another fan control to it. So I added an extra wire to the pcm connector

'Jay, mine is like theirs, or like this: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=510656

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by droopyzda1

Mine is a simple basic, plane Jane 1994 W/T (work truck). No cruise, no power locks, driver side window is manual but passenger is power (go figure). I do have the luxury of the a/c though. I still have to wire it and the e-fans. I love the write up u did. Just all the schematics kinda shares the hell out me. I thought I was done with the schematics when I went thru the truck's wiring and LS stand alone harness !! My e fans are a simple two wire generic from ebay with two 4 wire relays. They are up next for wiring. I had the pcm reprogrammed from the guy from lt1swap.com and he added another fan control to it. So I added an extra wire to the pcm connector

---

Yeah i had branden do my pcm also but i had to add 2 wires... one for low and one for high as i stated in the second post. did you already have one wire for fans??? kinda odd.. and it sounds like your fan setup will be basically the same as mine which means your going to need to add the 5 pin (S.P.D.T) switching relay unless your only planning on having them on high speed all the time?? not sure what you have in mind. but hit me up if you need any help with it. Im no stranger to electricity.

and mickey, did you have to go out and find that bracket at a JY or something? it didnt come with your truck right? i was just trying show guys they could use the one that came with the 350 instead of having to buy another one and have to hack it up anyway. lol

I double checked the relays, thery are 5 wires. I was just going to hook up the fans so that they both turn on when you start it. Going to do it like that for now and later on to at least have one of the fans to turn on when I crank the a/c. I am now in the process also in trying to get an expensive fix to the air intake. I got a pcm mount from 96+ Burban for the LS pcm, washer tank off the Burban as well as a cool GM storage box that goes behind the driver front headlight and core support. Its the same spot some people move the battery to when they do the LS swap.

'Jay I used what already came with my truck. I used the round bar braces that were used for the alternator bracket to intake manifold and the 4 wheel drive brackets from the engine mounts down to the transmission torque converter cover. By mixing and matching/cutting/welding, I had all the material I needed from my old engine. I'm an Ironworker by trade, so welding and fabbing anything in steel is not beyond my abilities.

Here's a pic of the 4 wheel drive brackets that have the round bar braces that were utilized for the A/C bracing. They are just to the left of the engine, on the cart.

http://i488.photobucket.com/albums/r...ersion/020.jpg

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Mickeymotormount

'Jay, mine is like theirs, or like this: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=510656

---

That site linked to the original Malibu site that I used for my setup.
I have a question tho, was your bracket like the one on the malibu site?
The engine in my 90 was botched and peiced together.
I never ran the block numbers since the truck was destined for an LS since I bought it.
It was not an original tbi or centerbolt valve cover headed engine.
It was carbed but still had the serpentine belt setup. My compressor bracket had a different lower brace/area. It appears to have held a smog pump.
I looked over everything and some very slight things are different from all the ones pictured. No matter how I swap the pullies the belt still rubs on itself on the water pump going from the ac comp tensioner to the idler below the alt.
I dont have a sized belt yet but just from my tests it keeps hitting.
How much clearance do yall have there?
I may just have to go dig for the bracket like the one pictured.

Don't know about mickey, but in my case it was the same bracket as that Malibu moded. The Malibu guy used one off the s10 4.3 which was the same motor I had. The clearance between my idler pulleys and the water pump pulley is very tight now. I got about a quarter inch of clearance between the two. Maybe if you try to get smaller pulleys, it can solve the problem.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by droopyzda1

Don't know about mickey, but in my case it was the same bracket as that Malibu moded. The Malibu guy used one off the s10 4.3 which was the same motor I had. The clearance between my idler pulleys and the water pump pulley is very tight now. I got about a quarter inch of clearance between the two. Maybe if you try to get smaller pulleys, it can solve the problem.

---

Thanks droopy,
I would be happy with a 1/4 inch...
This is what mine looks like now. You can see how it bows up where its making HARD contactvwith the waterpump.

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b1...003_185434.jpg
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b1...003_185403.jpg

This is my complete bracket.
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b1...003_191521.jpg

The lower section.
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b1...003_191528.jpg

And once cut.
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b1...003_191223.jpg

hey fabi. like suggested, the only thing i think you could do is try and find the smallest pullies you can to replace both the tensioner and the one under the TB. that alone will help free up some space. also try and see if you can fit a smaller belt. maybe a 1/2 - 1" smaller if the tensioner allows you to. i dont remember how much "swing" your tensioner has. that would stop the tensioner from "pushing" the belt so far down if you understand what im saying.... it would make that pully sit higher causing the belt not to touch the water pump. get it?

if that doesnt work then your next best bet would be to just not use the pully under the TB at all. completely bypass that one. Obviously this would require a significantly smaller belt. id guess 2" smaller or so... i personally did try that on my setup and it kinda worked. but my tensioner (LS tensioner on water pump) wasnt pushing on the belt hard enough which caused it to slip under load plus its kind of a long distanse between the tensioner and alti which allowed it to flop. BUT with how yours is setup, i wouldnt think you would have that kinda issue as long as the belt was the right size.

i think that route or the smaller pullies will solve your problems.

My bracket is just like the ones you guys used or the same as the Malibu site. That was standard on my truck as well. Don't forget, the V-6 and V-8 engines were similar in almost every respect except for 2 cylinders being lopped off. The bolt holes on the front of either engines were in the same location so one bracket could be used on either engine.

Fabi, I do recall going to the junkyard and scrounging a couple of idler pulleys from some GM V-6 cars. I physically measured mine and then went and found some slightly smaller ones so I wouldn't get any belt rubbage at the water pump pulley. Before changing idlers, my clearance might have been about 1/8" max. I found that to be a little tight for my tastes so I opted for a smaller pulley. By mixing an matching pulleys, I ended up with about 3/16" clearance and haven't had any issues.

Just for kicks, here's another pic of my bracket which was originally installed on my 5.7. It's laying on the cart with the 6.0.


http://i488.photobucket.com/albums/r...ersion/019.jpg

BTW, what TB do you have? I know its off topic but i like the blue anodize. obviously aftermarket. is it bigger? and what for?

[QUOTE=fabianss357;518024]Thanks droopy,
I would be happy with a 1/4 inch...
This is what mine looks like now. You can see how it bows up where its making HARD contactvwith the waterpump.

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b1...003_185434.jpg
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b1...003_185403.jpg

I know you said you tried every possible configuration with the pulleys. But have you tried swapping the tensioner pulley to the spot umder the a/c comp then moving that one under the alternator and then the one from under the alternator to the tensioner ? Or you can remove the upper idler pulleys and measure them, then go hunting at a junkyard for smaller ones, it should solve the problem. Remember what ever pulleys you get from the junkyard, make sure you get the pulley, the top washer, the bolt, and the mount that goes behind the pulley. For one of my pulleys, i had to make the washer hole slightly wider for the bolt to fit.

My tensioner pulley and idler pulley under the alternator are definitely smaller. The idler below the A/C compressor is larger. I will try to post a pic tomorrow. I have to remove the air intake tube to get a better look at it.

Here's pics and dimensions of the idler/tensioner pulleys. I even took a pic of the clearance, which to my surprise, is tighter than when I first completed the swap. Not sure why but I haven't had any issues with the truck.


After looking at the pics myself, a simple idler pulley swap to the right(in the pics) of the compressor to a 3" idler and a swap to a smaller belt would be the answer.

http://i488.photobucket.com/albums/r...sion/001-1.jpg


http://i488.photobucket.com/albums/r...sion/005-2.jpg



http://i488.photobucket.com/albums/r...ersion/007.jpg


http://i488.photobucket.com/albums/r...sion/006-1.jpg

http://i488.photobucket.com/albums/r...ersion/008.jpg

just wanted to share some info,
if you have efans and want them to turn on when the a/c is on,
you can use the a/c switch mounted in the a/c condenser 95 and older,
just provide ground to one terminal on the switch and run the other wire to your relay trigger ground, this way if you have a/c on they come on and stay on all the time.
this is the way I did it on mine. when a/c is off the fans will be in normal operation.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by chvz99

just wanted to share some info,
if you have efans and want them to turn on when the a/c is on,
you can use the a/c switch mounted in the a/c condenser 95 and older,
just provide ground to one terminal on the switch and run the other wire to your relay trigger ground, this way if you have a/c on they come on and stay on all the time.
this is the way I did it on mine. when a/c is off the fans will be in normal operation.

---

good post. like I said I tried that switch but couldn't figure out when it actuated or exactly how it worked. that would make things a lot simpler.

Thanks a ton John, that really helps out.
Since my bracket is different its really hard to see a size on pics.
I dont have any yards in my area that will still let you wander around and pull parts. I have to have year, make, and model for almost everything around here.
This will help tremendously with finding the right pulleys!

And wow that is a tight clearance!
I was hoping I would have just a bit more.
I have thought about pulling the idler mount off and drilling a new index hole so that the entire idler arm moves counterclockwise just a few degrees.
Ill swap some smaller pullies and then play with it.

I didn't know there were different brackets. I thought they were all the same. The only difference I see is the idler spring assembly and that I know has at least 2 different types. Anyway, I'm glad this info helped you out. Good luck!!!!!!

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by kewljay223

good post. like I said I tried that switch but couldn't figure out when it actuated or exactly how it worked. that would make things a lot simpler.

---

this switch only engages when the pressure In the condenser gets beyond a certain point/ ac on. I had to look at the stock a/c controls to figure it out. for anyone that will use this mode make sure the switch you have is a green color switch , or new mt0790 from the parts store

I know this is an old thread but I'm having issues with the serpentine belt it keeps slipping backwards and rubbing on the compressor and water pump anyone had an issue like this. My set-up is exactly like mickeys.

Sorry. But don't know what you mean by slipping back. Possibly the belt is getting off the pulleys and coming loose? If so, than you may have to get larger pulleys to make some tension on the belt. Or for some reason, maybe the belt stretched. I am having a couple issues with the same set up presently.

I did have an issue with the belt jumping one groove rearward when I first had this setup working. In my post I stated that it took some "tweaking" to get the alignment right to solve this issue. By loosening some of the braces and adding a washer behind them helped with the issue. If you're having the same problem but the belt is moving back, you may need to add a washer or two somewhere to get the alignment just right.
I never knew they were this touchy when it came to alignment. I figured if it was close, it would work. Guess I was wrong.
If you're still having issues, PM me and I'll see if I can be of more help.

Alright thanks pm sent and it does jump a groove forward. it started to rub on the clutch switch on the compressor I seen on one of mickeys photos that the belt messed with it as well

Maverick, hopefully these pics will help you out. I'm not sure of what type of bracing you used. I used the old Gen1 style round bar bracing that I altered the suit the situation. Let me know if you need some clarification on these pics.

This pic is looking down from the throttle body.
http://i488.photobucket.com/albums/r...sion/006-2.jpg



http://i488.photobucket.com/albums/r...sion/004-2.jpg


http://i488.photobucket.com/albums/r...sion/005-3.jpg



http://i488.photobucket.com/albums/r...sion/007-1.jpg



http://i488.photobucket.com/albums/r...sion/008-1.jpg