I got a 4l80 out of a 98 pickup that im puttin behind my 5.3. I just want to know what th400 yoke i need. Ive looked on the threads and searched google just no clear answer really. Here's a picture.....
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I got a 4l80 out of a 98 pickup that im puttin behind my 5.3. I just want to know what th400 yoke i need. Ive looked on the threads and searched google just no clear answer really. Here's a picture.....
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Gotta measure the depth and see how far a yoke will slide onto the shaft. Short or long th400 yoke.
Thinking that one might need the short yoke.
I'm sure some trans guy will chime in.
1350 if I remember right is the 80e yoke part number I used its the long one.
The yoke that came on in it is pretty short. I just heard people talkin about the splines and them bein shorter on some, and some have o-ring like mine or a clip. All I need is this yoke and I have everything for trans swap. Just tryin to get this goin asap.
1350 is the joint size, the spicer part # for the long yolk that uses a 1350 joint is 3-3-5551x. The long yolk that utilizes a 3r joint ( most common joint on chevy pick ups) neapco part # n3r-3-9161x. The short yolk with a 3r joint is neapco part # n3r-3-9763x. Hope this helps
I dont have away of cutting a the yoke if I was to get a longer one.
I gave you the part # for the short yolk too.
Yea but when I search for the short one with that part number no results found
Where are you located? I've got 3 on the shelf in laurel ms.
clarksville tn
i just know since it has that o-ring on it that the yoke has to slip over it and it seals the yoke so that the trans fluid doesnt get in the splines. I dont have a lot of cash left for my swap so im tryin to make sure i dont buy the wrong thing and spend money i dont need to spend.
The o ring is not needed unless your using a bolt on yolk the new trans yolk will be sealed on the end instead of having a bolt hole.
I figured id keep it bolt on since thats the way it came and i dont wanna deal with spline issues and what not.
Then your gonna have to have a stub and a slip yolk put in your factory shaft to make that work. The driveshaft has to have some travel in it somewhere. I work at a driveshaft shop, we build them all day every day.
So you recommend me cut the oring off and just use a slip yoke. I just figured since this is goin back in a truck I wouldn't need a slip yoke since it came with a bolt on yoke. So if you have what im needing would you be willing to ship me one. I really want something I can put on bolt up and go. No cutting modifying or anything. Dont want yoke tailshaft spline issues. Did you see the picture I posted of my tailshaft? The oring is different kinda flat and not easy to remove.
O ring is flat because its wore out. I'd be glad to help you. Is your shaft a 1 piece shaft or a 2 piece?
Lol I have no idea to be honest. How do I find that out. Its been since high school since I've even messed with a transmission
just look at it. one piece is one long shaft with two u-joints and a yoke on one end... a two piece has another joint in the middle with a carrier bearing. the carrier bearing will have its own crossmember under the truck to sit on.
so you know what it looks like, this is my two piece after i picked it up from the shop after my 80e swap. had the long full splined yoke and shortened 2 inches, all new joints and bearing.
http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b1...821_131930.jpg
Oooooh I thought he meant tailshaft lol not drive shaft. Yes its a one piece drive shaft. I feel dumb right now. He said shaft and I was assuming we where still talkin about tailshaft and yoke. Plus I was at work dealin with a dumb supply sgt. Wasnt thinkin.
haha. Brain fart... we all been there. no prob bud.
bump
Get me a measurement from the flat spot on your rear end yolk where your straps bolt to it, to the very back of the tail housing (measurement #1) next measure the driveshaft from the center of the u joint cap on one end to the center of the u joint cap on the other end. (Measurement #2) . If you can get me these 2 measurements I can figure what yolk you would need and if any driveline modification will have to be done.
all right ill do that tomorrow
didnt get a measurement couldnt find a damn measuring tape in my buddies garage. This what my 4l80 yoke looks like. I had a guy tell me i could just use the same yoke.
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I can't help you without a measurement. The yolk you have bolts on to your output shaft and and will not have any in and out play once you bolt it down. In order to use that yolk you would have to put a male spline in your shaft and a slip yolk so the driveshaft would have some in and out travel. This pic below is what you would have to do to use your yolk. http://i1057.photobucket.com/albums/...ps47b27820.jpg . You need a yolk like the one on the right in the next picture . Its sealed on the end and will fit on the end of your current driveshaft and it will slip in and out of the tailhousing since it will not be bolted to the output shaft. I can't tell you if it will need to be shortened without you giving me a measurement.
http://i1057.photobucket.com/albums/...ps7da84fc0.jpg
ill get measurements asap. been super busy with work and port and polish. The one thing i cant seem to find in this garage is a tape measure. I guess im gonna have to go buy one.