4l80e vs 4l65e

Hey guys. Getting closer to getting my lq4 setup and I've got a question. I've been getting conflicting stories and a lot seem like opinions.

First off: 2002 short bed standard can. 4.3 and 60e.

Some say you need the 4l80e. Some say 60e is fine. Some say 65e is perfect. I've seen a 5.3 supercharged joe Gibbs with a 60e. From the factory.

Little confused on my next course of action. Also, I was told if I get a 4l80e I'm going to have to get a drive shaft manufactured because it will too big for my truck size. HELP!!!

Side note: if I could just use the existing 60e, even with minor upgrades and save 1000-1500 on an additional trans that would be stellar.

use the trans until it starts slipping or more funds are available

Sell the 60e for $4-500 on Craigslist. Then buy an 80e for $7-800. The difference in length of the 60e vs 80e is about 1/2" if I remember right. The cross member will need to be modified.
Here's a pic for reference.
http://i1142.photobucket.com/albums/...ps5f6ca909.jpg

So other than modifying the cross member there's no other changes to the yolk, drive shaft? They can all be reused?

You'll need an 80e yolk and about 2" taken out of your driveshaft.

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Originally Posted by jansen

You'll need an 80e yolk and about 2" taken out of your driveshaft.

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Seems like a few people haven't had to modify the driveshaft. Something about shortening the yoke?

i for sure had to shorten my shaft. check my thread. but i have a 95... not a 02... but yes cross member will have to be modded. and wiring will need to be done. trans lines tweaked. new yolk at a minimum depend on d shaft you decide to use.

for reference, i put an lq9 in mine, kept the stock 60e (220k miles) that still worked like a champ behind the tbi, and it lasted about 2 months (after 6.0 swap) before i couldnt hit the gas too hard without it slipping. my .02 since you have 6.0, plan for the 80. run the 60 you got now while you get parts for the swap. but trust me, it wont last long if you do more than grandma driving...

oh and there are like 4 yokes for the 80's... be sure to get the right one

You hafta change cross member good thing about yours is you can cut the center out and just turn it around backwards and weld it back up, and you dont have you ds shortened buy the 1350 80e yoke its shorter so itll work, I did this on my 05 and used an 02 crossmember and everything turned out right.

I'd go ahead and do the 80e. My 60e lasted only a couple months behind my lq4, that was with mostly moderate driving. Do yourself a favor and go ahead and upgrade the tranny now. Just my 2 cents.

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Originally Posted by Botlfed

You hafta change cross member good thing about yours is you can cut the center out and just turn it around backwards and weld it back up, and you dont have you ds shortened buy the 1350 80e yoke its shorter so itll work, I did this on my 05 and used an 02 crossmember and everything turned out right.

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But you're still having to cut off the yolk and weld the new one back on, right? Why not just shorten it at that same time? Does it matter?

No its pressed on pressed off. Machine shop charged me 5 bucks.

A 60E or 65E CAN be a good transmission IF built right, but finding a builder is the problem. I have a 60E in my 9 sec Camaro and in my 12 sec nitrous truck...all has been good with my build. I will agree the 80e is a better trans but they do have their fair share of problems as well. It depends on how hard you will be on it and your end goals and if you trust a local builder.

As far as your 4.3L 60E I bet its near the end of its life if its a stock unit and hasn't been build. If you can get a good working 65E that will be a great start , them come with 5 pinion planets from the start and hardened output/input depending on years...

If you stick with the 60E I can send you a build list if you need and post up more info on the entire setup if you will