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K I did an LQ4 swap and am using my stock 4L60E and I have no reverse. Have hooked up the Tech2 and found my PRNDL switch shows the gear change. But the Trans Fluid Pressure switch shows Park, Neutral, Neutral, Drive4, Drive3, Drive2, and Drive1. Could it be in the valve body when I did a rebuild? PLEASE SOMEONE HELP ME WITH THIS!!! I need my truck back!!! My GTP spun a rod bearing so I haven't had a car for the last couple weeks and am sick of F'n walking!!!
any dtc's? that will let you know if you forgot to plug something in.
maybe a torn gasket, leak, etc.
after a rebuild, sometimes that reverse pin is the issue, had that happen before.
if you can't find anything on the outside, just say ... and pull it back out and tear it down.
no dtc's and i'm hopin it not a torn seal cuz i really don't wanna do any more removal then I already have
it's only funny because i've been there, hahaha.
it'll give you something to do over the weekend, oh boy what fun!
I would work on it over the weekend but it's stuck in a stall at school... sucks!!! But i have excellent resources there Alldata, Mitchell, Tech2, all kinds of fun stuff like that. HPTuners only gets me so far for what I'm workin' on.
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K so i came across a deal for a 80E 10,000 miles or so with no converter. Tradin the GTP for it. For my basically stock set up would you suggest just a stock converter? or Would you get something from the aftermarket? I am tryin to go cheap.. Ideas...???
A good 80e is gonna cost you $,1000, unless you find a used one in good condition, usually half that cost.
Stock setup, might wanna use a stock converter if you're going for a budget install.
Thanks for all the info farmtruc. But a converter question now, I'm lookin around online and have found GM81 and GM82 converters and have no idea what the differance between the 2 is. This will be the first I've really delt with torque converters, always had one for the 60E
Edit: Found out with some research GM81 is low stall and GM82 is high stall no sur of the stall speed but I'll research that too
The high stall part number isn't much higher but every little bit helps. I think one is around 1800 and the other 2100rpms if I Rememeber correctly. Been a long time since we bought one.
Earlier I said "basically stock set up". My enigine is basically stock but I put som 806 heads on it. I've been wondering what my CR is with everything stock (gasket thickness, compression height, and no shave on the heads). Then I was wondering how they would affect my torque curve and about where they moved it to. I just graduated college for auto so i kinda feel like a dumbass askin all these questions but there is still alot I don't know.
Sorry their 862 heads...
As far as a converter goes, even a low stalling aftermarket will be a LOT better. The stocker is so damn heavy. Anyway, keep a watch on a few forums classifieds, used ones come up fairly often. Likely find something cheaper and better than a stocker
Will do!!!
Did you remember the reverse checkball that goes next to the accumulator in the case? There's a few things you could check without pulling it out. Also you can drop the VB and air check the reverse piston to make sure you didn't fudge up one of the 3 seals. I'm a trans guy, new to this site but anything you need to know or ask just let me know.
Reverse is purely hydraulic, no electrical troubleshooting is going to help you. No matter what, it's gonna have to come back out. Before you pull it, drive in the parking lot in manual low. Tach it up to around 2500 and let off the gas. If it has engine braking, the reverse input clutches are not applying... Or the reaction shell is broken/ stripped. If it doesn't have engine breaking, the low/reverse clutches aren't applying. Either way, no reverse = pull it back out. No sense in dreading it, it has to be done.
I got a 4L80E goin in soon