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hey im going to start my swap soon on to my 93 chevy try to swap the motor and trans to 5.3 with a 4l60 im going to run dirty dingos for motor mount i was wondering if you guys used a specific mount for mount for the trans? this is my first swap so im trying to get as much info as i can and if you know of something that might make the swap easier plz feel free to let me know or any advise you guy have will be greatly appreciated.
thanks Aaron
You can use the stock trans crossmember. I have a 4l80e and just had to slide the xmember back like a good inch or two and redrilled the 4 holes on the frame.
+1, Also if you are using the Dirty Dingo adapter mounts you may be able to use the factory location for the crossmember. I spoke with one the the Dirty Dingo guys and he informed me if using the mounts for your model truck truck they supply (part number DD-2550C, my truck is the same as yours) you can position the engine to keep your factory transmission crossmember location. In the end, the best result is to put the engine in the best location possible, if you have to redrill holes, its no big deal, do what works best. Also, is the transmission you are using with the new 5.3 or an older 4L60 or newer one that was mated with the engine? If it is an older 4L60 there is a .400" difference between the 2 and it will require a spacer that is easily aquireable and/or can also be made if you have some metal fabrication skills. Good luck with your swap. I have one going on right now on my 94' Silverado.
For simplicity of driveline, your best bet is to get the engine settled in place, bolt in the trans mount, and then snug down the engine mounts. Otherwise you have to start playing with driveshaft lengths.
I agree most with Wagonbacker, using dirty dingo mounts should allow you to place the engine where the factory transmission placement belongs requiring no driveshaft mods. When you start messing with the drive shaft you can miscalculate the pinion angle or the correct amount of length needed. A couple of inches too short or long can result in either the drive shaft falling off or bending in an instance of great suspension travel also damaging the trans. I have seen this more often in the four wheeling world but never in everyday use if you do not tow on a regular basis. The dirty dingo mounts as mentioned above allow a total of 3" of travel, 1 and 1/2 foward and backwards. This should make factory line up as you started with. If it doesn't, just post what you have and go from there. Drilling new holes is no big deal, just as long as you are not moving far from what you started and wanting to keep your factory drive shaft.
thanks you guys for the help thats exactly what i was looking for i should be starting this swap in a week or 2 super excited im just waiting for the mount to get here i will keep you guys posted with the swap and if there is anything i might need to know please let me know try to make it as smooth as possible... here are some pics of my truck before the swap..
Wow, that thing is super clean and low! An LS will look great in there.
thanks tirebite yea has a good of money invested into it so thats why ive decided to go ls swap hopefully everything goes smooth
hey have a couple of other question about the swap.
1. what oil pan will mount on to my truck when you are going to run a 5.3 on a 93 silverado?
2. i currently have a gear box on my 93 when i swap to the newer motor what route should i take for power steering???
thanks for the help everything really help.
Welcome! Nice truck! There's a ton of very useful info on this forum.
Most of your swap has been discussed in one form or another and if
you run into any problems chances are someone knows the answer.
Does your truck lay full frame?
If your front crossmember is laying your going to have to swap the truck oil pan out for a shorter pan.
The f-body (camaro/ firebird) ls1 pan is perfect but they are pricey.
The one I plan on using is the cts-v pan, a bit cheaper and pretty accessible.
I did all the measurements and it should clear by an inch on my setup.
I'm also bodydropping my truck 3.5 inches so I have other clearance issues.
The muscle car pan (aka hummer h3) by my measurements will bearly hang below the crossmember.
The engine mounts have some to do with this though so you will have to check your clearance.
I'm fabricating my own mounts to get the engine as low in there as possible.
Good luck and post more pics!
Edit, the 5.3 pump and lines are nearly identical to your original power steering lines.
Just bend them a tad and bolt them in.
thanks for the info and no my truck does not lay complete frame it is not body drop ok ill check on the ls1 or the cts-v for oil pan thanks...
and also thanks for the power steering info
fabianss357 post a pic of your truck would like to see your set up? if you dnt mind
Lol mine is in about a million and one peices right now.
It was originally bagged to lay frame on 24s before I bought it
And now I'm doing the swap and bodydrop.
I have a thread I need to update around here somewhere.
And if your not laying frame, the truck pan might work ok,
if not you may be able to run the more economical muscle car oil pan kit.
Just FYI, all ls based engines share the same oil pan pattern.
The windage tray and oil pick up tube must be changed out to correspond with the pan your putting in.
Here's a great link for pans, including measurements.
http://m.ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1611850
fabianss thanks for the info ill keep posting as the project continues im hope to have everything gathered in like 2 to 3 weeks and then ill start the swap is there anything you think i might need to keep in mind or heads up on something?