Got this truck in late January 2012. Was looking for one for a while, finally found one.
Putting in a 03 LM7 from a Suburban. Now the work starts, when I have the time....
http://i1258.photobucket.com/albums/...RV-LS1/003.jpg
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Got this truck in late January 2012. Was looking for one for a while, finally found one.
Putting in a 03 LM7 from a Suburban. Now the work starts, when I have the time....
http://i1258.photobucket.com/albums/...RV-LS1/003.jpg
Here's the old engine thats coming out! 220,000 miles on it. Keeping the trans.
http://i1258.photobucket.com/albums/...RV-LS1/011.jpg
Got to work on it. Had to remove the hood, front bumper, core support, etc,etc. My garage is small and has a low ceiling. Been dreaming about this swap for a while, now I'm doing it.
http://i1258.photobucket.com/albums/...RV-LS1/124.jpg
This is it. Did a compression check on it. Didn't like the readings. Driver side cylinders were too low on compression. So, had to get a remanufactured block, now at least I know the blocks good, plus with a warranty.
http://i1258.photobucket.com/albums/...RV-LS1/045.jpg
The engine is in. Was not an easy task either. Had to change my engine (rubber) mounts. Using S&P long engine motor plates 1" back. Painted the engine crossmember and surrounding areas with POR 15.
http://i1258.photobucket.com/albums/...1/motor034.jpg
This is going to be a California truck, so I need all the emmissions crap. Not a big deal. Need to buy a new fuel tank 98 ( has the right pump and fuel press. sensor). Got to make up a couple of fuel lines that go to the fuel tank. There going to be made out of nylon fuel line and get connected to the trucks steel lines. Also need to cut and reweld the gas pedal (DBW). I want an electric fan setup at the radiator, but for now going to install a clutch fan, just to keep the ref happy when I get the truck inspected when its done.
You don't need to buy another fuel tank. What you have will work fine. I used my 1990 tank and had no problem with it. Of course now it has a fuel cell.
You don't understand. I need the 98 tank because of the fuel tank pressure sensor, I'm in California and its got to have it.
Got a question, its probably a dumb one but, here goes. These wires below, are they ground wires? The wires are black with white stripes and the other is a white wire.
http://i1258.photobucket.com/albums/...ndwires001.jpg
Does the wire that was connected to my old alternator, need to be connected to a 12volt source ,in order for my alternator gauge to work? Not sure.
The big red wire that goes to the alternator post gives you your volts.
Does that mean that the 95 alternator wire needs to be hooked up to a 12 volt source in order for the "alternator gauge" to work? The only wire that I will have going to the alternator would be the one coming from the battery, plus the connector that plugs in. Right??
The wires that are shown on page1, are they ground wires? Two I believe had eyelets broken off.
http://i1258.photobucket.com/albums/...ndwires001.jpg
That looks like a ground wire.I dont know what kind of wiring harness you have but i have a stand alone harness.I have a plug for the 5.3 alternator from the wiring harness that controls alternator from 5.3 computer.i also have a red wire from harness that goes to the post of alternator and i connected my red wire that went from my trucks original alternator post and connected it to my 5.3 alternator post.The old alternator wire that plugged in to the original alternator i am no longer using.
Thanks, gagliano7. I've got a custom emmisions harness from S&P, hope they put it together right. Today hooked up my ground cable and ground wiring. Tomorrow or Sunday I'll put oil over the rockers, fill the oil filter and crank it over until I see that its getting oil pressure. Hope it works.
Need help. Hooked up the battery, all grounds, filled up oil filter, put in about 4 quarts oil. Hooked up the oil pressure sensor. Cranked the engine a good 20 seconds for a couple of times. No oil pressure on the gauge. My spark plugs are all out, valve covers too. Do the spark plugs need to be in the engine when I'm checking for oil pressure? What do you think?:rolly: :rolly:
Check if you are getting oil up to the rocker arms. Cant imagine why the plugs would need to be in. Can you put a mechanical gauge on to check for pressure?
I'll see if I'm getting oil coming out at the rocker arms. Can I get a mechanical gauge at any parts store?
Which oil pressure gauge are you using?I had to hook up the wire for the fuel pump which goes to the original oil pressure gauge for mine to work.One wire to ground one to gauge and one to fuel pump.
Its the original oil pressure gauge from the truck. One thing, the adaptor that I'm using is from S&P, and I wrapped teflon tape around the threads of it as well as the sensor. Could that have something to do with it not grounding?
Tried cranking the engine over again. Watched to see if oil is coming out of rockers. Want to make sure on where I'm suppose to be looking. Got a picture below on where I think oil is to come out of. Where the pencil is pointing. One other thing, the 95 manual mentions that the oil pressure gets up to 6 lbs. when at 1000rpm. Would that be the reason that my gauge pressure doesn't come up? The gauge reads zero when cranking, but it comes up to the second white line when its off. What do you guys think? Got a picture of it too.
http://i1258.photobucket.com/albums/...rockers010.jpg
http://i1258.photobucket.com/albums/...rockers005.jpg
Do a continuity test from oil pressure sennsor body to ground to see if you have a good ground.You could also put a mechanical gauge in for know just to make sure you have oil pressure.My truck has 40 psi at idle 700 rpms.If i remember correctly oil pressure went up that high while cranking motor with computer disconnected when i first installed engine to make sure i had oil pressure.
Did a continuity test of ground on the sensor, its good. Got a mech. gauge yesterday but, doesn't have the right adaptor. Ordered one, got to wait for it. Gagliano, the 95 manual mentions oil pressure at 1000rpm to be 6 lbs. So I'm wondering if its at all supposed to get any pressure simply by cranking it over. Somebody mentioned to start it up. If I do start it, for how long should I wait until it builds up?Quote:
Originally Posted by gagliano7
Your not going to see much oil pressure if any oil pressure on the gauge cranking it over. The starter wont turn it over fast enough. Just pull your coil packs, and turn it over for 15-20 sec. Then plug your coil packs back in and fire it up. Your lifters may tap for just a sec until they prime up. You should see oil pressure in a sec or two on the gauge. If the motor was assembled correctly you should have enough assembly lube to no hurt any bearings.
Thanks for the help bow tie klr! I'll try your suggestion. It also sounds right to me too. :beer2:Quote:
Originally Posted by bow tie klr
Today got my adaptor. Hooked up the oil pressure gauge, and still nothing. I thought it would be like that. Engine doesn't turn enough to create enough pressure. Will continue putting the swap together. One question, I snugged my intake down. Scared that the threads might strip if I tighten them to spec. I tightened my rear oil pan screws to spec and stripped them both. Lesson learned with that. Do you think I might have vacuum problems later because I snugged the intake screws down?
Are you reading inch lbs and torqueing to foot lbs? If I recall, the manifold is torqued to inch lbs....
Quote:
Originally Posted by ccreddell
I'm reading it in inch pounds. When I torqued the rear pan bolts, got to about 5 foot pounds, then they stripped. There suppose to be torqued to 109 inch pounds which is roughly 7.3 lbs. Thats why I'm concerened about the intake bolts, there at 89 inch pounds. Snugging those too. If theres a leak, I'll just tighten them a little more. By the way, the valve covers are also at 109 inch pounds. Will snug those down too. If they leak, snug down some more. I paid $65 for somebody to install threaded inserts when I stripped the pan bolts, so I'm kind of careful as to how much I'm going to tighten these bolts.
Got a question. Want to mount my ecu to the passenger side fender well, but don't want to use that plastic piece it sits in. Does anybody have something for sale or could make me something for the ecu to sit in? Got a picture of mine.
http://i1258.photobucket.com/albums/...omputer001.jpg
http://i1258.photobucket.com/albums/...omputer002.jpg
It's roughly 9.5 by 7.
When I was hooking up the battery ( positive) noticed the extra red wire . Anyone know
what its used for?
http://i1258.photobucket.com/albums/...omputer006.jpg
Not sure about the red wire.here is a computer mount http://secure.ultracart.com/catalog/.../ACC-1030.html Are you sure your torque wrench is working correctly?I torqued the oil pan and intake manifold to specs and had no problems.89 in pounds is very light.
Its a craftsman torque wrench 44690. I believe theres nothing wrong with it. Looks good. Yeah, 89 inch pounds is very light, about 7lbs. Still I'll tighten it the way I'm planning. Really don't want to strip those threads. $32.50 a thread!! That mount looks good, thanks.Quote:
Originally Posted by gagliano7
I usually use a 1/4 drive and go a little at a time. make sure the threads are clean in the hole and no debris. that can cause you false tq readings on a tq wrench.
I have a new ECM trey like above for sale. Was just about to post it in the for sale adds along with some other swap parts I have left over. Let me knwo if your interested and can get pics and prices.
thanks
Started "dry" fitting my S&P harness. Looks like I have to send it back again, for lengthening. Oh well, got to keep on going with the swap. Ordered my fuel tank assembly, and guess what... got the tank without the fuel pump, even though it was suppose to come with it. Another set back in the swap. I've had a lot of set backs with this swap, hope it will succeed in the end.
All solid black wires are engine block grounds. All black with white tracer wires are chassis ground wires. Any LS engine can be turned over as long as you'd like, for pre-oiling, by simply holding the gas pedal to the floor & keeping it there. It will not fire.
I began removing my 95 harness temporarily, and noticed this purple connector next to the round trans connector. Anyone know what is the purple one for? I can't remember if it was plugged into something or not. I think it wasn't.
http://i1258.photobucket.com/albums/...nectors002.jpg
Anybody know what the small purple one is??Quote:
Originally Posted by HRV-LS1
Anybody know what the small purple one is??Quote:
Originally Posted by HRV-LS1
Answering myself, is this maybe for if there was a clutch sensor??Quote:
Originally Posted by HRV-LS1
Got a question. Got my fuel pump assembly Spectrum sp461m. Hooked up the fuel gauge wiring to the sender and my gauge reads 1/2 when the tank is empty and extremely full at full. When I mean extremely full, the needle is wayyyyy to the right! What can I do to solve this problem?