Just doi g a little research here.. and ive came up with the tr220 cam to put in my 5.3. What is some of you guys input on this... should i run a higher stall and change springs or will i be ok with stock springs?
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Just doi g a little research here.. and ive came up with the tr220 cam to put in my 5.3. What is some of you guys input on this... should i run a higher stall and change springs or will i be ok with stock springs?
Specs are: 220/220 .556/.556 112lsa
No you need different springs along with hardened push rods, and yes get a stall.
Not exactly what i wanted to hear but tr makes a kit that comes with springs cam and pushrods. Prolly what ill end up doing is putting the cam in and waiting till the 60e bites it and put in an 80e and a 2600-2800 stall. What kind of power gains would i see over stock? More low end or will i lose some low end in return for high end?
A cam that small won't give up low end especially on a 112. I've got that cam's big brother in my 6.0 (232/234 .595/.598 112+4) and its got a fat bottom end. I'll have numbers to back up that statement next week.
Agreed though, springs are NECESSARY, and you're not going to like how it drives without a stall. In my 5.3 cam selection I'm looking seriously at a reverse split.
If you want to save a little money and have a reliable setup you can go with LS6/7 springs which can handle that cam without a problem. You are going to lose some bottom end going with that cam, but your mid and high end power will increase dramatically. I would get a big trans cooler ASAP in order to keep your trans a little more happy. Waiting for the 80e is a pretty decent idea since you won't have to buy the stall twic, but the circle d is budget friendly and holds its value.
I got the TSP 220 in a 4.8 and it lost lowend torque even with a 3200 stall but once it gets to 3500-4000 it will run strong till redline. The converters only $400 bucks.
Fortunately the stock 80e stall is pretty loose to begin with though it weighs in at close to 80lbs. It's definitely a wise decision to get a small diameter 3200+ stall when going to an 80e, a high price to pay for one but well worth the cost.
Where's best to buy the TR220 cam and circle D stall? I think that's what I'm goin with as well.
The site sponsor "Circle-D" is listed on the front page of the website. Allen at Nelson Performance can get you the camshaft or may even recommend a better cam for you depending upon your desires. Contact both of them and you'll be happy. :) I think the TR before the TR220 is for Thunder Racing, though.
How would a comp 212/218 .522/.529 114lsa do for bottom end? And would springs be a necessity with it? That cam is the one that ive been comparing with the tr220 trying to decide which is the best for me. I really would like to have some good torque around 2000 rpm so i can pull all these hills in va without so many downshifts and stuff. But when i hit the go pedal i want it to come alive and leave my brothers 6.0!!! :D
The longer intake lobe helps extend the powerband, and the shorter exhaust lobe basically opens a little late (compared to a single profile cam), and it closes a little sooner as well, reducing overlap and improving idle. A very basic cam statement is that the intake lobe makes the power, and the exhaust profile determines drivability. This is not ENTIRELY accurate, but if you think about the way the engine breathes, it makes sense.
That makes sense. The more i think about it tho im not sure i want a stall converter because i do pull a 8500 lb trailer occasionally and i dont want it to always be screamin to haul it. So im thinkin the comp xr265hr14 is what i want. Its the second cam i speced above. 212/218 .522/.529 114lsa and while im gonna be in the motor ill pull the heads swap out springs to ls6 and port amd polish the runners and mill them just a tad to raise compression to 10.5 +/- how much would it take as far as milling the heads to raise compression from 9.4:1 to 10.5? Anybody have any input?
Totally depends on your setup.. rod length, displacement, combustion chamber CCs...
As for changing the springs, I just got into this debate in another thread, there is nothing stopping you from changing the springs with the heads on the block. And there are plenty of stalls out there that are fine for towing, as long as you have a good cooler.
Right. I just read where super chevy did a port and polish job on a set of 5.3 heads and got almost 40hp gain. So i just thot i might do it all at once. But the truck came from the factory in 1994 with a towing package so it has a cooler already on it. I really think thats why the old 4l60 lasted as long as it did. But this is all subject to change because super chevy also stroked the 5.3 to a 383 and had it layin down over 550 hp and torque so im just toyin with all kinds of ideas right now.
Yeah, I'm not saying "don't", just saying "you don't HAVE to"... As for the factory cooler, that may or may not be sufficient, especially if you stall. I plan on putting in a cooler upgrade, possibly in series with my factory cooler (if I have one, haven't looked). I've got the same problem you do... so many ways you can go with it, its tough to choose.
Yea and the problem is i already know that whatever i do isnt going to be enough. You cant ever have too much power!! :D but i believe money is gonna be the determining factor for me. Stuff costs too much