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The wife bought me the ceramic pacesetters with the y pipe for christmas. I am going to be installing on my 2010 4x4 tomorrow are there any tips for the job or pretty much remove and install. I saw they stop at the 2009 but I am unaware of any differences. I guess my biggest concern is the O2 extensions, not sure if there is enough wire. She also got me a leveling kit so I will be pulling the struts out and the Inner fenders so I should have plenty of room.
Use a ton of PB blast on the manifold bolts several times over several hours before removing them. Lots of people break them, but if you soak them first then it will make your life and this job a lot easier.
The pace setter off road y pipe won't clear the 6spd trans. It was designed for the 4spd. Lower your transmount and take your stock y pipe off in one piece just in case. I'd put the headers on and drive to a good muffler shop and have them make a ORY then go get retuned!
I got a 4 speed in my truck currently so do you think I'll stil have a problem with fitment? My tune actually was ready setup for long tubes way back when I got it. Downstream is of and I remember him mentioning changing a value on the upstream due to the new lower location of the o2
If your tune is set up for LT's then hopefully the tuner deleted them and you shouldnt even have to worry about having them and x2 on the pb blaster major headache without it
2010 4x4 is a 4spd??? Is it a 4.8L?
Yep its a 4.8, I set up a signature with my Trucks infor but maybe I do not have enought posts on the forum to display.
Gotcha! Ya kinda gay you still get the 60e with the 4.8 and not the 6spd.
I wonder why gm kept the 60e for the 4.8/4.3 when everything else got the 6spd since 2010.
The headers should fit great! But I do recommend dropping trans crossmember to get factory y in one piece in case u get some bad warranty issues. Also keep the cats! They sell for quite a bit of cash!
Yea I am looking at a cam and a prochager within the next year so warranty will be out the door. I was thinking of selling the factory Y on craigslist or scrapping cats (whichever more Profitable) and buying some transmission upgrades servos, piston acummulator and transgo HD2. Trying to find a write up on the acummulator piston install.
Is pb blast just like dw 40 or noQuote:
Originally Posted by kerrige
WD40 I believe is just a lubricant. PB actually penetrates the rust and helps dissolve the rust.
If your looking at a procharger and your serious about getting it! You'd be wasting money on a 60e. Buy an 80e put a hd2,vette servo and you'll be good. Also I hope you put a blower cam in it. I'd wait on cam for now n do it right from the beginning.Quote:
Originally Posted by Gus
I skimmed through the 80e conversion but saw some people were having problems with the 4x4 swap. My transfer case selector is a manual version on the floor and I think most of the people that had problems with the electronic selector. Would a 80e with transfer case work with this set up? I know I would most likely have to change driveshaft length.
So just an update, I got the headers almost complete on the 2010. The rear driverside bolt is a b*tch to get to. I pulled the inner fenders which does make things much easier. Passenger side was everything you could ever ask for when working on a something, came right apart, header slid in from the bottom. Driver side I had to go through the top and did not need to disconnect steering shaft. I would have had a bit more room if I would have disconnected the front driveshaft but was able to work around it. I needed to cut the original exhaust before the YPipe clamp since the bolt was rusted so I could not complete until I got another piece of pipe. Another tip is to completely remove the transmission crossmember this helps a lot.
Good to hear you got them in with out to much issue.. Only problem I see is if you get alot of rain or snow, they are going to be ready for replacing within a 2 year period.. :(
An issue I had and it may have just been my set, I had them on for about a year and then swapped motors and when i put them back on they seemed to collapse in and the drivers side started to rub against my 4wd drive shaft but I just pulled the shaft and did a little massaging to the header and it doesnt rub anymore
Just hit them with some plastidip :lol:Quote:
Originally Posted by Mangled03gmc
Another update everything is on and I just need to go through and retighten since I have been through the first heat cycle. My god you feel every exhaust puff there is, I had a series 10 flowmaster on the truck prior to this since and it sounded really good. Now it’s crazy loud so I think I will be shopping for a muffler soon. Not sure about anyone else but I’m still really surprised I cannot turn the tires over from a dead stop. I have a tune (with supposed torque management reduction), intake, header exhaust, factory 265 tires and 3.42 with stock torque converter. I cannot get these damn things to move on a dry road or even trying a brake torque. Any one out there with a newer 4.8 having similar problem?
Here is a link to the Youtube video on stock exhaust/ flowmaster with factory manifolds. http://youtu.be/iTSZqJQ6CqA
Short clip after the longtubes were installed http://youtu.be/wZ_k3PbZ7i8
its the 3.42's and stock converter swap to 4.10's and at least a 2800 converter and you'll burn them up
Ive been through 3 right rear 275/55/20 with 3.23 stock within 18900 miles with a 4.8.:burnrub:
It almost feels if my throttle body isnt opening. I just added a high flow cat tonight (cold ad hell)due to local emission checks. I also picked up a vet servo which I will install when it's not snowing. My garage is to short so the truck doesn't fit. Everything I have installed has been outside in gravel after work. So it's dark/ cold and snowing when I'm working on it.
It is fairly normal to loose a little on the bottom end after an LT install. Like has been mentioned a stall and gears will make a big difference. Bang for your buck after a tune maybe the best mods out there.