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hey guys i have a obs with a lq4 and the stock 5 speed. I wanting to put a t56 in it. I originally planned on getting one of a fbody car but i came across this one out of a ctsv. I dont know anything about it other than the shifter is back further. Would it be worth my time to even mess with it or should i just keep looking for a f body t56. I want the least amount of headache as possible. Thanks in advance.
id be willing to bet theyre the same. i dont see why gm would change it. im sure you could find out for sure on ls1tech or on a ctsv forum.Quote:
Originally Posted by johnmichael397
T56 out of Vettes are different than those out of Fbodys and GTOs. Fbodys and GTOs also have different ratios. The GTO t56 actually has the most sought after ratio for a truck swap.Quote:
Originally Posted by Botlfed
that can be a debate itself. Like comparing the gearing of the 60e vs the 80e. all depends on the setupQuote:
Originally Posted by pl4yboy
Cuz the goats are some heavy SOB's!!!Quote:
Originally Posted by pl4yboy
you sure youre not thinking of the earlier vettes that have the whole rearend as part of the trans assembly, i know those gonna be minor differences, but not enough that it wont work.
I think the new ones have TQ Tubes.Quote:
Originally Posted by Botlfed
Yep C5's and C6's have a transaxle T-56. Lots of parts are interchangeable still though. The Z06 gearset is also the hot ticket for shorter closer ratios.
well im going turbo. how much power can they handle
Don't worry about the trans as much, a decent clutch will be your biggest issue. PM Quik, he's ran BIG power in front of a T56 in a truck and broke a few parts doing it. But I think it's holding up for him now.
ill tell ya right now, if you are indeed going turbo, look for the 4l80e option. It will be much cheaper!!!!Quote:
Originally Posted by johnmichael397
If I was gonna go auto I would put a 80e in it but the whole point of this was that I wanted to keep the truck a straight shift. I realize I can be faster with an auto but the truck came with a straight shift so I wanted to keep it that way. Just wanted something stronger than what's in it now. So do you believe it would be easier to put a fbody t56 or a ctsv t56. And is there anyway to do away with the hydro tob? Thanks. Quick I've seen your truck on YouTube before I even saw this site and have always loved that it has a t56 in it.any help you could give me would be greatly appreciated.
heres the thing youll spend more money on staying a stick then you ever would with an 80e. i love my t56 but after going down the path of spent money, 80e was the better choice from the getgo. close to 7k with the current setup, that doesnt include the other clutches or the other built t56. 500 hp would be most id try for again in a truck with a manual past that its just to much money and all the bullshit that goes along with trying to support that powerQuote:
Originally Posted by johnmichael397
my power goal was gonna be 500. Its not gonna be extremely radical. I just dont want an auto. This was my first truck and i wanna keep it a straight shift becuase that was the whole reason i wanted it. Now the next truck i build will be getting a 80e but not this one. I under stand what your saying about the money situation and im not saying i have a money tree i just need some help with finding out what will work and i know your the man to ask.
What is a straight shift?
If you are wanting the tranny to stand up to some abuse (ie: bulletproof), buy a new Magnum T56. There are two main reasons I would suggest it, that being they can handle a lot more torque than the regular T56 and there are several positions you can put the shifter at to better fit your need. It is going to cost a little more than a Camaro tranny, but it will far outlast one. Just my 2 cents worth.
Straight shift would be a manual transmission
And thanks paulster2 for the advice. I have thought about a magnum. Do you have any experience with the richmond 6 speeds? thanks
going to tell you from experience. T56 in a truck with power wont be cheap!!!!
i currently have what D&D calls the "unbreakable one" yet it got hurt as well. I then tore it apart and upgraded it even stronger with their own parts they sell which dont include in their "unbreakable one" I used to use a Liberty T56 which i scattered behind my 408.
alot of damage will come from the stock master cylinder as its not suited for any good aftermarket clutch. It just doesnt have the capacity, and it also has 3 restrictors in the line. Once you put a beefy clutch in place you will break the pedal. NExt option is plate fire wall. then you will bend push rods, solution here was buy a Tilton master with -4 braided line. {tick performance sells a kit that is meant for a C5 vette that works in the trucks. I used their product then sent them pics and info on this. others have followed this path.] this alone is a 400 dollar add on
i had a Ram VDS clutch at $900, didnt last long behind the boosted 48, used a LS7 clutch which was my favorite but i knew it wouldnt hold power with slicks, currently have a spec twin disk $1200 clutch.
O btw the unbreakable is now $3900, a SFI bellhousing was 550 back in 06-07 more now
youre going to spend big money if you indeed want to stay a manual, again for what i got wrapped up in the t56 i could of bought a terminator 4l80e from rossler and still had money to play with for a billet converter
now if you still want to go T56 after knowing how much its going to cost. You could either PM me or do a search for what ive used
I don't have personal experience with the Richmonds. One thing I like the T56 over the Richmond is the double overdrive. The Richmond, while being a 6-speed, only has the single overdrive. To me, the double overdrive of the T56 allows you to have the performance AND better gas mileage, with less wear-n-tear on the engine at highway speeds. Just my thinking though. As far as what Quik said, if you were going for 1000+ rwhp application, his route would be the right one. For your application, it's way more than overkill. Bulletproof, yes, but way overkill. A Magnum T56 with a dual friction Ram or Spec clutch (single disk) should hold just fine IMHO. The Magnum is rated at up to 700 ft lbs of torque, so you should have plenty of room for growth. Please keep us abreast of what's going on with this ... if I didn't mention before, this is along the lines of something I want to do down the road as well. About five or six years ago, I almost bought a RCSB V6/M5 to put a BBC/T56 into ... almost, lol. I would still love to purchase a newer RCSB 4.8L/M5 and covert it over with a T56 and twin turbo or maybe a LQ9 408 (or larger). Ah to dream :DQuote:
Originally Posted by johnmichael397
remember this they adverstise those numbers based off a 3400lb vehicle. The stock hydraulic line is restricted bad and it will cause you issues unless you do the drill mod. Even then it doesnt solve the issues. This will work tho with a light pressure plate. For a clutch with a heavy pressure that pedal is going to break. The stock pedal uses a 1/8" plastic square hole. this will break every time, if you run teh Ls7 clutch it has a light pressure plate and shouldnt cause you to bust the pedal.
another thing that happens to the trannys with the plastic pads on the sliders is when you put an extension on the shifter it puts more stress on the sliders when you shift. {leverage = strain] Even built trannys come with the plastic pads, same as a factory trans does.
just trying to give you a heads up. as this will be a PITA road chosenQuote:
Originally Posted by Paulster2
thanks for the response guys. This is not gonna be a straight drag truck. Its just my cruiser that i take to the track every once in a while. If i get 500 at the wheels i will be super happy.