I got my 5.3 in my 96 Sierra. Problem how do I snug tranny up to block so I can bolt it up. It's on motor mounts bolts in. Just about an inch away from trans to block to bolt up. Tried using longer bolts and ended up with a stripped bolt.
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I got my 5.3 in my 96 Sierra. Problem how do I snug tranny up to block so I can bolt it up. It's on motor mounts bolts in. Just about an inch away from trans to block to bolt up. Tried using longer bolts and ended up with a stripped bolt.
What trans are you using
4l60e from 96
Dont use the bolts to close the gap thats a big no no, im not saying that i haven't done that but definately ill advised. So back to your issue, is the converter properly seated (not hitting the flex plate) also are your guide pins lined up to the proper holes, your converter could be hitting the motor make sure it is still spinning freely if it gets wedged and you force the trans against the motor without the converter being properly seated it will crush the front pump. Did the converter make the infamous 3 clunks during install?
Sounds like you have the wrong motor mount adapter plates. Are you using the 0" offset plates or the 1" offset plates?
Jeff
1 inch offset and how do u turn torque converter and which direction???Quote:
Originally Posted by Lextech
Word...Quote:
Originally Posted by LamboDoNoMo
It will mushroom the slot in the pump gears where the converter should engage. Makes it impossible for the converter to fully engage without the pump gears being replaced.
Converter spins freely. Took long bolts out stripped one had to use grip-tite socket to get out. Back to my dilemma will spinning torque converter close the gap if so which direction do I spin it.??? So close yet so far away!?!?!?
Sorry man spinning the converter is only to ensure that it is not in a bind, it should spin either direction, but its not gonna help your problem, do you have to move the trans mounts on this swap? What i would do is pull the motor and trans out, bolt them together, install the motor and trans together then make your mounts for the trans fit, possibly need your driveshaft lengthened afterwards, sorry im not much help dont know much about this year body style swap.
sounds like you need to move your motor back 1 inch. is the trans still bolted to the cross member? on some motor mounts you have to slide the trans forward 1 inch and drill new holes in the frame.
I used TD part number 4592 which was supposed to solve that problem.
Copy of Lisa's tahoe from street and performance and trans dapt motor mount adapters are supposed to solve this issue i just crawled under truck and its about an inch i measured iam going to be so pissed if these are wrong motor mount adapters trans dapt part number 4592. it was alot of work to get that motor in and i had borrowed cherry picker wich i have returned. In street and performance write up it all bolts up like butter. Iam ready to set fire to mine, spent 2hrs trying the long bolt trick yesterday and stripped a bolt, grip-tite socket set fixed this got bolts out today. going to call street and and performance for some help in am if i dont find it here. drill new holes in frame and get and custom drive shaft will piss me off. again i think i need to have a gas and match accident i spend money on something that runs and drives...
lol slow down hotrod. just give them a call in the morning an see what they say. post up what you find so no one else has this problem with there swap.
The problem solved I have wrong motor mounts on their trans dapt part number 4592 is not a 1 inch set back set I need trans dapt part number 4575 for a set of motor mounts to move block back 1 inch. Oh joy i get to pull motor back out and swap out motor mounts lucky me. Anyone know of a company that sells these cheaper than trans dapt they go for 56 bucks from summit.
swap the mounts out with the engine in the truck.
Im not seeing motor mounts you used. Can I unbolt motor and jack up from under neeth and swap mounts?? thats my plan.
mine were simple GEN1 engine mounting cups with flat adapter plates that move the engine out of stock location. You can find them on Ebay. Yeah, just the engine up as far as you can and remove the mounts, been there done that before.
I found a set on ebay for 40 bucks shipped.
You can just move the trans crossmember forward an inch and drill new holes as mentioned before, you shouldn't have to get a custom driveshaft. Goodluck
If he moves the transmission fwd, yeah he will.Quote:
Originally Posted by silverado_lover
Not going to chance it using proper mounts lesson learned should have done my homeworkQuote:
Originally Posted by PitchBlackC3
I've seen a couple build threads of guys using stock location mounts and I've never seen anyone have to get a custom driveshaftQuote:
Originally Posted by PitchBlackC3
I had that same problem when I made my ls swap mounts out of some 1/4" thk 4" wide steel flatbar I drilled and tapped the req'd holes for both 0 offset and 1" offest just in case and first tried to drop my 01 5.3 in and bolt the existing 93 4l60e to it only to find the 1" gap as you had then moved my mounts to the 1" offest and the trans mount and driveshaft's lined up perfectly with the stock location, when I changed from the 93 4l60 to the 01 that 4l60e that I built my mounting holes moved closer to the rear of the slot but not enough to cause any driveshaft length or cross member issues.
Thanks to all for the heads up about lisas tahoe .pdf. Very informative.
If you move the tranny forward ANY distance the driveshaft yoke will be pulled that much off of the transmission tailshaft. There is no and ifs or butts about that! Now whether or not a 1" or ? will make a difference is the question. I do know as your rear suspension goes from neutral to toward fully compressed and decompressed (your air born) your driveshaft yoke will pull even further away from the tranny tailshaft. The yoke is made to slide back and forth during rear suspension events but if it gets to far out and becomes disconnected from the tailshaft then you just chucked a driveshaft and could easily frag the backend of your transmission...or transfer case if 4x4. I have seen this happen many times but is typically caused by failed ujoints. Aint that a good day....waste your transmisson/transfer case over some $20 ujoints that people are too lazy to grease or replace when they are showing signs of failure.