Ok, I am thinking about putting an LS1 in my 92 4.3 Full size....I understand the dificulty of this swap, I am just looking for resources on headers, wiring harness ect...anyone wanna offer up some resources?
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Ok, I am thinking about putting an LS1 in my 92 4.3 Full size....I understand the dificulty of this swap, I am just looking for resources on headers, wiring harness ect...anyone wanna offer up some resources?
You came to the right place. There are alot of guys who can help here. If you search some of the threads I think someone just finished that conversion and has an entire write up on it.
there should be a sticky in this section listing out 99% of the parts youll need for a v6/v8 conversion. check it out and post back if you have any more questions.
Yeah, got a little hasty with the question asking, I am mainly looking for somewhere to do the wiring harness because I loathe chasing wires
Street & Performance for their headers(G-Body), SpearTech for the harness & computer re-programing, motor mounts you can fabricate yourself from template patterns offered on LS1Tech.com, or buy them from S & P also. Air Conditioning compressor can be relocated to passenger side high position via a new Sanden compressor & mounting brackets from S & P, which made life REAL easy. Install all Vette accessories on the drivers side. 99' Corvette fuel filter/regulator combo unit in-line with electric fuel pump from tank. Standard late model F-Body dual electric fans with your 4.3 Litre stock radiator (or an upgraded version). Hope this gets you started...Gar
Thanks, let me tack this question on there...is it worth it to do the M6 swap if my truck is an auto? I love driving a manual, but I dont know how I would like it in a truck, I guess the question becomes 1 has anyone done it, 2 is the headache worth the gains?
Damn, sounds like someone read my recipe book for cooking up an LS1 into a 92 C1500. Other than the fact that you can use the entire f-body accessories except the a/c compressor which gets located up high on the passenger side with brackets and idlers from S&P or March. Wiring can come from S&P, too. NelsonPerformance.com for a basic tune and delete of unused emission BS, get the 2002 PCM and tune for a more aggressive performer.
So you have a guide to doing this swap somewhere? I could use it, if you wanna let me know where it is, Someone needs to prove to me this isnt an easy swap...Quote:
Originally posted by RedHeartbeat@May 10 2005, 09:20 PM
Damn, sounds like someone read my recipe book for cooking up an LS1 into a 92 C1500.
That was just a phrase. :laugh: There are quite a few of us that have done that conversion though. If you have any questions just ask. You are at the number one source for answers for the LS1 into a 92 C1500, LS1TRUCK.COM! :thumb:
LS1Nica just finished the exact conversion you are contemplating. DocGreen did a Vortec into an OBS that is factory quality. I did one but don't have the truck right now, it was stolen last month. Allen, farmtruc, did one in his OBS and has it turbo'd with an STS kit. GMCwantsLS1 has one in his pre-88 truck. There is a wealth of knowledge here to get you going.
Peanut .... there are many different ways you can do the swap. It all depends on how you want it to perform, what you want to have in the end, and how much intigration you're planning on having. If you just want a straight up haul a$$ machine it's not very difficult. If you're wanting everything to work as it did in the original configuration then it takes more time, finess, and $$$ lol :lol: . Feel free to check my site out there are a lot of pics there on my swap. I don't have a stepp by step "how to" on it but you can probably get some ideas. I'm fixing to get started on a 92 swap myself here in the near future. So post up your ??'s hopefully I can answer them or someone else will be able to help you. :smile:
I want it to be "stock" I need all the lights whipers and everything to work...I am going with autometer gauges to make it work better, but I want the dash swithes to work...I may make a few other changes when I order the wiring harness, but those are "top secret"
and by top secret I mean I am planning on converting to DRLs and switching the light switches over to to open and arm switches :devil:
Docgreen9...I have a question about the photo on your website of your fuel tank. There are four(4) rigid steel tube supply lines coming out of the top. From largest to smallest...Are they: Large fuel vent line(goes to fuel fill), 3/8" fuel supply line, 5/16" fuel return line, and last...small vent line that goes to charcoal cannister(?) Which of these is correct/incorrect, do I have the sizes correct, what type of brass piece/adapter do you start with, that's threaded into the brass hex adapter? Thanks...I'm enjoying the learning process of this whole thing, it's half the battle. This site is a great source of LS1 swap info! Gar
I"m in the process right now . I have a 94 half ton short bed and I've never done anything like this before. What I couldn't do , I've outsourced. I sent my harness off to a guy in PA at LT1350.com and he's grafting the two harnesses together for $600. I think it's well worth it . He says everything will work when I plug it in and he's relocating the A/C plug up to the top where the compressor will be a la the compressor and relocation bracket from S and P . According to this guy , his name is Dana , I don't even have to move my sending units from my old 4.3. And he claims no computer burning is necessary . With the engine mount relocators from S and P this engine dropped right in and my drive shaft still works , although it could be about and inch and a half longer , but I've been told it still won't come out . I did have to use the mount adaptors upside down from what they said , though . I also had to adjust the trans mount crossmember just slightly by drilling . I had to get my fuel supply line altered at a local shop for about $20 and I'm planning on using my old fuel return line as the evap line for the Ls1 , which is a 98 model . If anyone who knows more about this than I do sees anything wrong with what I' m saying , please chime in !! I still don't know if my fuel system is going to work . I put a fuel pump in my tank that S and P said to use , they called it a EP or SP 241 so that's what I got .It fit right into my float assem. It puts out about 55 PSI . My understanding is that the fuel regulator is on the fuel rail but on this engine there is no vacuum line or electrical line going to this device. Does anyone know if this is going to be a problem ? I trimmed up the stock radiator shroud with a jigsaw and installed a 16 inch electric fan for $75 from autozone. The transmission lines and power steering lines were almost in perfect alignment . I've yet to order headers because I don't know which one's to get but OnyxSilverado says he used the ones for a 5.3 (shorties) from Summit . I'll have to post a picture of my Rube Goldberg exhaust system ! I actually used the
Transam Y pipe after some trimming and some flex pipe . I'm not going to fire this beast up with open pipes ! It's just a temporary solution to get the truck going and down to an exhaust shop . I spent about $25 to rig it up for now . Anyway , that's where I'm at with it . I put this engine in last weekend and if I get my harness by Monday , I'm expecting to try to start her up . Keep yall's fingers crossed for me and I'll keep you posted .
I cut the fuel lines at the old fuel filter location and grafted in a late model corvette fuel filter, WIX 33737, in it's place. You'll need a piece of 3/8" and 5/16" fuel injection quality line to tie the filter to the stock lines. I used two clamps on each end of the line for a total of eight clamps. Get fuel hose fittings for the outlet side of the filter from your local auto part store such as PepBoys or Oriellys. Use 3/8" fuel injection quality rubber hose from the filter to the fuel rail. Quick, cheap and simple. The fuel filter has a built in regulator that will be proper for your setup.
I am assuming you have the single inlet fuel rail and not a 97 style that had an dual outlet fuel rail.
The motor mounts being upside down is common for the V6-LS1 conversion. The instructions were for a V8 conversion.
Sounds like your heading in the right direction. S&P makes a nice set if headers if you're interested. Their G-body set is supposed to fit nicely in the OBS trucks.
So are you saying that the regulator that 's on my fuel rail isn't going to work ?Will it even run with the setup I have now ? I haven't been able to find a manual for a 98 TransAm at any of the parts stores so that I can identify the various things on this engine that I don't know . Guess I'll have to get one through Amazon . Sorry about your truck . Any word on that ? Thanks
No news on the missing truck so far. It's either in Mexico or stashed until the heat is off.
Is your fuel rail the single inlet type or does it have two inlets?
It's just the one inlet . It's a 98 year engine .
You won't need a regulator if you use the corvette fuel filter. It has the regulator built into the filter. You get a new regulator with each new filter you buy. You can't beat that for value. It's not adjustable but it does exactly what it's supposed to do. The only reason to use an adjustable regulator is if you are trying to override what the PCM is doing for you. Just keeping the pressure as the factory designed is all you have to do and the PCM will handle the rest. The vacuum signaled regulators of the past are not needed on a NA motor. You could use one on a turbo motor to boost the fuel pressure under boost to richen the fuel ratio but that's not necessary in a stock type configuration. Just cut the pressure and return lines at the stock filter location and install the WIX filter.
LS1GMCtruck , yes you are correct on those fuel lines on my tank. The largest one is for the fuel fill vent, then next from right to left is the supply line ( 3/8" ) then the return ( 5/16" ), and then the vent hose for the charcoal canister. The charcoal hose I actually hooked directly up to the canister purge solenoid on the top of the intake on my 04 motor and did away with the canister. Sorry it took so long to give you an answer I've been under the weather past couple days. :puke:
Docgreen9...Cool! Thanks for the info! LS1GMCTruck (Gar) :cool:
Ok, so I am starting to accumulate parts...found an LQ4 complete, but I wanna use an LS1 ecu...I am thinking its just a maf and map change, and I should be good to go, anyone have any idea on other sensors could be different?
I would be real curious to see if anyone has a picture of a grafted harness. I am wondering how it looks when it is done versus a custom harness like this one...
92 6.0 harness
I wish I could see some photo's of them in the truck and done. I know with stuff like this, it is easy to turn a nice swap in to something pretty nasty with wires running every which way.
97SS383, there isn't really that much to an "Grafted" harness. If it's in an older car there really isn't anything except the PCM harness. The only connections needing to be made for the PCM to function on it's own are: MIL (even optional ), BATT constant, IGN switched start & run, GRounds, and that's it. When you try to intigrate it into an existing computer controlled vehicle with abs and other controls is where it gets messy. If you want some pics of my harness in the truck up close let me know and I'll get them for you. Here is a finished shot of it. There wasn't any grafting to be done on mine much .... the truck harness is basically seperate from the PCM except for about 10 or less wires, MIL, idot lights, ect...
Where in FL are you located??
http://68.84.255.222:8060/done%20pictures/done1.jpg
Now that looks nice. Did you use the electronic throttle on it as well? It looks like you have the TAC box on the fire wall.
I also see you just yanked the entire fuse and relay center from the donor truck and used it, looks awesome.
I guess I am just curious about how it looks from someone who actually grafts the harnesses together via mail order, and how satisfied peopplke are with them. I have read several posts on forums where people say that they got a good product, but I have never seen finished pictures aside from the one you posted.
I am down near Tampa. Current Performance (the link above) is around here and I have looked at them since they are near by, but he won't graft harnesses together, he makes them from scratch for the swap. A bit more expensive, but no splices, less down time if you are trying to gather ALL of the parts you can ahead of time, and if you sell the old engine, you have the harness to go with it.
This is a thread copy from LS1Tech and I'm sure it will help explain to answer your questions. Here is the complete link for more answers. You might have to be a member to read it. Good Luck!
Harness Questions
Wow, someone actually quoted me!! I guess I needed to put a disclaimer in my original post. :whack:
I was wondering if you'd catch on! :jump: :point:
I've got a pic of my grafted harness before install and after . I've still gotta put them in to my computer but I'll post it later this week . My engine compartment is still kind of in a state of disarray . I think I'm going to have to disconnect the harness now that I know how it goes and reroute it so it lays differently . It's a bit twisty here and there . But , as soon as I had it installed it started right up . :laugh: I had mine done at LT1350.com in Pennsyvania for $575 which included return shipping .
97 SS 383 ... Yes I went with the electronic throttle which is stock on the 04's. In my opinion I think the fly by wire is the way to go. I know I've heard several people say it sucks. It was way easy to get the cruise and throttle hooked up. I'm going to use it on my next swap. :thumb:
Ok...here comes a question "the mounts have to be used upside down in the V6 swap" can someone explain this a little better? also do I have to cut the V6 drive shaft like I do in the V8 swap?
I had a V6 5speed and had to cut the driveshaft plus replace the drive shaft yoke with a much smaller one to fit the 4L60E transmission. Contact your local driveshaft shop for how they want you to measure it for cutoff.
Hey Injected I did a similar swap on my 91. Mine is SBRC and had the 4.3 auto in it.
If you bought the motor mounts adapters from S&P and you read the directions it tells you to put the plates in a way where the square ends points towards the back of the engine. Well if you do that and havent changed the mounts on th eframe to V8 ones then the motor will hit the firewall.
For some reason my memory is a little fuzzy and I dont have the truck anywhere near me to take a look at it. I think I turned mine upside down and flip them so that the square end is facing the front of the engine. Maybe if you can show me the diagram I can tell you exactly how it goes. Anyways after you "flip" the adapter plates that should move the engine forward about 3-4 inches. Thats enough to clear the firewall and to get your wrenches to the back of the bellhousing.
I reused my driveshaft no problem, but I put a 6 speed on my truck and I love it. I didnt have the tools to weld and mount the master cylinder so I had a shop do it in exchange for my old V6 and tranny. Other than that its awesome, I even have a short throw shifter from B&M. Good luck, I should be home in about a week and I can look at the truck and tell you exactly what you need to know. :thumb: