4L60E Question

Well, seeing as I've done SOME bolt-ons already, I want to work on the transmission. I've already made up my mind with a Torque Converter from Circle-D and a Vette servo once I get the money. But there should me more I could add to the Transmission, right? Which shift kit would you guys recommend? and what else should I do with it? The truck has 150k miles on it and it runs fine but I'm starting to get a little worried about the transmission going out with me racing it every now and then.

Any help is appreciated!

when i first started modding my avalanche i had everyone telling me i was gonna kill the 60e, of course i didnt believe anyone till i killed it. i had the vette servos and a transgo hd2 & cooler, i had issues with the transgo tho, after i got the bugs worked out it shifted flawlessly. if i were you i would save my $ and get "at least" a built 60e. if your gonna work on yours the servos & good cooler are a must and upping the line pressure wouldnt hurt, i would ask someone else about the shift kit, it might just be me having issues with the hd2, the clip for the boost valve wasnt right and i blew the boost valve out and sucked the clip into the filter i know i had issues with something else but ive slept since then. the stall is just gonna put more stress & heat on your trans. on a different note i might have killed my performabuilt lvl 2 60e a couple hours ago. sucks. but good luck on yours tho

one major upgrade is a bigass tranny cooler to keep it cool. gonna need one since you plan on a high stall verter.

How does a 4L80E shift? Does it trop the RPM's heavily too, like the 60e? Or is it a much smoother shift? Since st8kfinger said his went out. What would be the difference between a FLT built 4l60e and a brand new stock 4l80e?

gearing is a lot better IMO. There is no comparison between the two transmissions, I'll never own a 60e in a truck ever again. As soon as I got beyond the stock 4.8L engine in my 2007 GMT900 the 60e started crying. I quickly took the 60e out and put an 80e in, one I've beat on for a very long time and blew probably 100 bottles of nitrous through. I like mine better with the stall converter, though. I'd go with at least a 3200 stall that is good and tight. As for shift smoothness, it's all up to the tune or shift kit. I have mine setup to bang the gears and it's held up well.

Wouldn't be 3200 a little too high for a daily driver?

Not in my opinion, I ran a very loose 3600 stall for years in my DD.

well i know everyones gunna say to buy a 80e but i want to know when building a 60 what are some parts that are must haves for the 60, parts that will beef it up and make it last longer, besides from the corvette servos

Get the beast sunshell, wide rear sungear bushing, 4l70e outputshaft, high rpm pump slide spring, borgwarner dual cage sprag, HD 2-3 shift valve that applies the overun clutches and race in "3" gear selector position so it supports the sprag, sonnax .490 boost valve. drill second gear feed hole to .093, get the servo release check valve so you can drill 3rd gear apply hole to .115 , I like the rebestos 3-4 z-pack, and the patc carbon 2-4 band, billet 4th gear servo. white 1-2 acc spring, brown 3-4 acc. spring.

I don't use shift kits in my 4l60e transmissions, My LS2/4l60e Camaro runs 10.2 @ 127 and my LS1/4l60e Dodge Ram runs 14.0 @ 94. I haven't burnt a band or 3-4 clutch pack yet....

I'm in the same boat as 04SilverBullet, so you guys think that a 4L80E/stall swap with a stock 5.3L with bolt-ons should work well together and just give up on a 4L60 or just forget it all and do the T-56 swap?:burnrub:

The T-56 while cool and fun is not cost effective. An 80e is the most cost effective most reliable route for your average joe. A built 60 in a RCSB will have a little easier time than say in a Crewcab. If you plan to stay under 500ish a built 60 is fine, but in the long run a 80e is just a really good option. The 80e with a good stall and the right gears is a great combo. Simple and straight forward.

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Originally Posted by Bryant

I'm in the same boat as 04SilverBullet, so you guys think that a 4L80E/stall swap with a stock 5.3L with bolt-ons should work well together and just give up on a 4L60 or just forget it all and do the T-56 swap?:burnrub:

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I see you are from Fort Smith. Sent you a PM sir. The 4l80e is more than enough for a stock 5.3. I'm with Greg, I'll never own another 60e again.

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Originally Posted by kerrige

The T-56 while cool and fun is not cost effective. An 80e is the most cost effective most reliable route for your average joe. A built 60 in a RCSB will have a little easier time than say in a Crewcab. If you plan to stay under 500ish a built 60 is fine, but in the long run a 80e is just a really good option. The 80e with a good stall and the right gears is a great combo. Simple and straight forward.

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I wouldn't even say under 500 is fine. I'd say anything over 375 or so, you're on borrowed time. Some people have made them last well into the 500 for long periods of time... but not in trucks. Very few have had 60s, 65s, or 70s last over 400 for long periods of time. The 80e with the right stall is more than you will ever need.

Skeet has had his PB Lvl II 60 for a while. I do not know the exact time of when he got it but I know he ran from high tens to low 11's all year last year on it. This season he is running a 410 c.i.d. engine in front of it. We'll see how long it lasts behind that engine. Lol.

Like I said, very few have done it.

the 60's that are living are Performabuilts. I vote T-56 with the GTO gearset. Double the cost of an 80e, but unless it's a serious track toy it is definitely the cooler way to go.