5.3 build with bad lifter

i supposed to pick up a 04 5.3 sunday. its missing cam, lifters and intake. Supposed the roller on the lifter locked up and took a cam lobe out with it. I havent heard of this being a common problem, but the motor is already took apart and I want to install a cam and rodbolts before i put it in.

plans
tr220-112 (best?)
arp rodbolts
tb stall and headers.

should I look into thinner headgaskets or milling the heads for a CR ratio bump? If i decide it needs a rering ill pull the pistons out of the 4.8 and put them in. supposedly 107k miles on it...

opinions?

the real question is whats the most a bad lifter can damage, im know metal can get in the bearing but whats the chances it messed up the lifter bores?

did 04 still have piston slap?

I called about the engine your talking about. I personally think it's overpriced, The thing needs to be totally tore down and built back. There are running 5.3's on craigslist from time to time close to what he's asking.

how much was it priced at?

350 is the price on Clist, theres 7 5.3 engines within 250 miles for less than 500. There is a 16K mile 06 5.3 for sale in lexington area I think for 500. It does need a headgasket though.

I getting it for 250... I cant see how thats so bad of a deal, I can build it the way I want from there...

The '03 model year revisions cleared up the piston slap issue

sweet... check bearings, throw a cam in it, rodbolts and be good to go?

I just tore down a 5.3 that had a lifter come apart. There was metal everywhere in the pan and the windage tray but very little in the pump screen and filter. For the most part the bearings looked perfectly fine. The main issue was the pin from the lifter roller bounced off the crank and busted a piston skirt before coming to rest in the bottom of the pan. The cylinder with the broke piston scratched the bore up. Now it will be a Iron LS1 build for me, ordered parts tonight.

I say a good cleaning and check over before reassembly then bearings for safety, cam, and rod bolts. If you want a little bump in compression you could put on felpro gaskets. Vatozone carries them for like $20 a piece with a installed thickness of 0.040.

Ill throw out my 2 cents. As stated above there is a chance there could have been some damage. If you decide to re ring the truck youd need to pull the pistons out anyway. It would give you a chance to check everything on the bottom end with a fine tooth comb. If it were me Id throw the 4.8 pistons in anyway for a CR bump that way. And the tr220 cam is a great performer for a DD truck if that is what you are going for.
Completely off subject but If you were willing to get work done for the heads finding a set of 243s to mill and throw on there with the 4.8 pistons would be a very interesting combo for what you would have wrapped up in it

If you are going to do it, DO IT RIGHT THE FIRST TIME! Trust me it sucks to put rod bearings in on your back under the truck when it is 30°F.

Im going to go over the bearings. The lifter didnt actually come apart, just locked up and took a cam lobe down .045" Lifter is completely intact but the rollers face has some cam materail built up on it. whats the difference between 706 and 862 heads? I thought by the time i got 243 and had them milled down they'd be about as good as a 862?

Goal is a DD with the most power and torque possible on a easy budget, everybodys goal right?

I've read you can keep stock converter with the tr220, ill probably go with the 112 for the idle. either heads, arp rodbolts, the thin headgaskets...

all input is welcome

http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h2...89/53motor.jpg

forgot to add, can someone inform me on lifters... just an overall knowledge between regular/ls7 etc

I've read that GM is now using LS7's as standard replacements for all standard lifters. Why not try to find a decent set of used LS1 or LS6 rods and pistons and do a 5.7?

dont wont the down time or expense

just after a stout daily with good mpg...

ls7 are stock replacement? same bore?

yeah they'll just drop in

which valve springs will i need?

Get a nice set of duals.

i read yellow springs are all thats needed? arent duals meant to be replaced at intervals?

ALL performance springs have a shorter life, the yellow LS6 springs are only good to .550 lift, so with the TR220 cam you'll really really be pushing them, which will make them more prone to failure. Patriot/PRC released a statement recently claiming there dual springs to have a life span upwards of 50000 miles. With that cam and if you break them in properly (a few heat cycles) they will give you a long life, and with most duals meant for use with .600+ lift it gives you room to grow. Doing valve springs sucks. And god forbid one break you'll still have one holding the valve up.

Patriot golds?
$255

tr220 112
$380

arp rodbolts
$75

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Mang213

The '03 model year revisions cleared up the piston slap issue

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Not in my 03...

does NP still offer cam Packages?

what will anyone guess my ET at?

Good basic cam and bolts ons combo usually puts a RCSB in the 13's with the 5.3

i was reading 13.6 on the cheap 100hp 5.3 nelson did, but not sure what brand the cam was or springs and I've got a dew more bolt ons than he mentioned.
i want atleast a 13.5 with stock converter

Quote:

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Originally Posted by kyhunter89

i was reading 13.6 on the cheap 100hp 5.3 nelson did, but not sure what brand the cam was or springs and I've got a dew more bolt ons than he mentioned.
i want atleast a 13.5 with stock converter

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Comp cam 220 I believe, and circle D stall converter. He makes good verters at good prices

thats where i get confused is between the tr220 tsp220 and comp etc

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ducky

Comp cam 220 I believe, and circle D stall converter. He makes good verters at good prices

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Ill keep the stock converter for the moment, plan on going 80e as soon as this one goes south

Probably need some longer push rods also.