Front mount guys, need input

Just a quuick question about the 02 sensor situation with a front mount. I've seen so many people with ORY's and front mounts driving around with their check engine light always on. I know that the cats go away with a front mount install but is it possible to keep that damn check engine light from staying on with a front mount? I'm assuming it can be taken care of with the tune but I honestly don't know. I would go insane driving around with nothing wrong and have the check engine light always on. Thanks in advance.

no problem with o2's here since allen worked on the tune some more....

Oh ok. BTW, where is the best place to put the oil drain on the oil pan?

Front O2's being on doesn't relate to having a front mount. SES light from O2's are usually on due to bad O2's, wrong O2's, exhaust leak, bad wiring, wrong wiring, or with longtube headers, sometimes.
More trucks with longtubes have front O2's causing an engine light vs front mounts.
To answer your question, there should be no reason why you can't having working O2's with a front mount. The rear O2's can be shut off and the fronts still work.
You looking to move that turbo forward?

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Originally Posted by farmtruc

You looking to move that turbo forward?

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Yes sir

cool...you will love it...

I'm counting on it :hyper2:

Yeah no O2 problem here either. Also, I have the oil drain located on my front cover right above the oil pan, only because I had it off at the time I was putting the cam in. The oil pan is always the best place though, right in front.

like ducky said, just to the right of the crank pulley, there's enough room for a fitting.
we use 3/4" hose for our drain, but i've seen small 3/8" work as well.

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Originally Posted by farmtruc

like ducky said, just to the right of the crank pulley, there's enough room for a fitting.
we use 3/4" hose for our drain, but i've seen small 3/8" work as well.

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I'll be using AN-10 line for the drain.
Thanks everyone for all the good info

and we use -3 for the feed line, just an fyi.

suggested: wrap all your hot pipes before installation, maf goes between throttle body and intercooler, don't let meth (if using) drip on the maf after it's done spraying, use good grade8 bolts, we use silicon and no gasket on the t4 mount.
i'll post more if i can recall any other stuff.

I was planning on reusing the -4 feed line with my 0.065" restrictor from my current rear mount setup. Would that work? Also, I was entertaining the thought of using the MAF as a draw through in front of the turbo - unless it is best to put the MAF between the intercooler and TB. That's where I have the MAF now but was thinking of moving it. Thanks, and please do post those pics.

ya, -4 is fine.

keep the maf where it's at, in between.

Im running -4 with no issues.

BTW, how big of a turbo can I run with a 3" downpipe?

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Originally Posted by jetmech

BTW, how big of a turbo can I run with a 3" downpipe?

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if the turbo housing has a 3", then that's what it needs.
the bigger ones will have a 4" housing.

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Originally Posted by farmtruc

if the turbo housing has a 3", then that's what it needs.
the bigger ones will have a 4" housing.

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Would some variation of a Master Power T76 have a 3" downpipe?

Ya that turbo has a 3" dp

Mine work good no lights never?

One more things guys, how am I supposed to get the passenger side 02 sensor to reach the turbo manifold? Is there a plug-n-play harness I can use to extend the wire?

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Originally Posted by jetmech

One more things guys, how am I supposed to get the passenger side 02 sensor to reach the turbo manifold? Is there a plug-n-play harness I can use to extend the wire?

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Just undo it and pull it all the way up. Thats what I did. You can follow it up the pass side all the way to manifold without having to extend the wire.

The thing with those single log style turbo kits, which is what i'm assuming you're building, i don't think you mentioned it; is that there are no left and right banks anymore. so, just put the driver's side o2 in it's stock location and the passenger side o2 in the downpipe about where the trans and engine bolt together.
shouldn't be any lengthening required.

however, if you're building a two into one style, like a ypipe, and your o2 connectors are square, send erica a pm with the length and we can make one for you

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Originally Posted by ducky

Just undo it and pull it all the way up. Thats what I did. You can follow it up the pass side all the way to manifold without having to extend the wire.

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Sweet! Thanks man

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Originally Posted by farmtruc

The thing with those single log style turbo kits, which is what i'm assuming you're building, i don't think you mentioned it; is that there are no left and right banks anymore. so, just put the driver's side o2 in it's stock location and the passenger side o2 in the downpipe about where the trans and engine bolt together.
shouldn't be any lengthening required.

however, if you're building a two into one style, like a ypipe, and your o2 connectors are square, send erica a pm with the length and we can make one for you

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No disrespect but I'm probably going to use a KB racing kit.

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Originally Posted by jetmech

No disrespect but I'm probably going to use a KB racing kit.

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lol none taken, i'm too far behind on builds anyway.

are you getting the larger kit or the base small kit (log)

Whichever one accomodates the T76 :laugh:

His standard log will work plenty for what you want. i made over 800 rwhp with that log of his.

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Originally Posted by jetmech

Whichever one accomodates the T76 :laugh:

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Originally Posted by Quik

His standard log will work plenty for what you want. i made over 800 rwhp with that log of his.

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Sweet!! I was plannin on about 600rwhp with Kyle's kit and a T76 on a cammed LQ4.