RCSB Speaker Help

I'm going to start off by saying all I know about stereo systems is V=IR. I will be taking out my entire interior to do some seat wiring for my new leather seats and I'm pretty sure that my factory rear speakers in the pillars are shot. I do not want to replace my factory head unit because of its integration into the BCM and I have never seen and aftermarket unit that is as easy to use or has buttons that I can work. With that said I would like my stereo to sound good and thump a little when it should. I mostly listen to country and rock so I don't need to be making a bajillion decibels. I'm thinking just some really good replacement speakers and a whole bunch of Dynamat but, honestly have no clue. What do I need? I really want to do this once and not have to take my truck apart again.

Thanks in advance!

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...o+db6501+.html

I don't know how many times I have to say this... I may as well put it in my sig.

REAR FILL IS WORTHLESS. There. Said it.

If you're looking at replacing anything, replace the fronts with a good set of 6.5 components. You'll need an amp and you'll be tearing into the dash to hook that into the deck... I would seriously consider looking into an aftermarket head unit if you're looking for any sort of upgraded sound quality. Upgrading speakers without adding any control to them is useless in my opinion.

Been there done that, replaced the speakers before the head unit. Yes there is a difference, but replacing the head unit to is a WORLD of difference. By the way you can fit 5.25s in the pillar with a bit of trimming and standard 6.5's in the doors.

Ok so I just want to do the rear pillars for now. From what I've read since I started the thread component systems are the way to go because the split the frequencies to the type of speaker that can reproduce them better. I have also read that there is a huge difference in quality between $200 and $300 dollar kits so I would rather find a $300 dollar kit and do this once. Any suggestions on kits?

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Originally Posted by Frenchy

Been there done that, replaced the speakers before the head unit. Yes there is a difference, but replacing the head unit to is a WORLD of difference. By the way you can fit 5.25s in the pillar with a bit of trimming and standard 6.5's in the doors.

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Does the depth of the 5.25s matter? I want to hide them under the panels so it looks stock.

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Originally Posted by pl4yboy

REAR FILL IS WORTHLESS.

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Jesus... Don't bother listening to this guy.


/sarcasm

It is. But if he wants to replace them so be it. Depth is okay, I have Alpine Type-R's and they're not shallow. Fit fine.

I'll second that rears are worthless. I would put my money and work in the doors and leave the pillars alone, maybe put two sets in the front doors if you want 4 mids/highs. Since its apart you might as well get some dynamat going. Just my input, have fun with the project

i like the oem head unit also (mostly due to the steering wheel controls that i don't want to louse if i switch to aftermarket) I just changed out the door 6.5's today because they were blown for a set of cheap boss speakers. They seem to work well and have a RMS rating of 125 watts each (more then good for oe head unit output) after hearing the difference between oe and the new speakers i picked up some of there 4x6's (100 Watts RMS)


6.5's http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...=STRK:MEWNX:IT
4x6 http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...=STRK:MEWNX:IT
yes i know its a cheap knock off brand but yes they sound better then oe

I think I am just going to go the cheap way right now and not even bother with components. I know it's not the right way to do it but the more I read the more I realize the ENTIRE stock system is GARBAGE! My stock head unit wouldn't have enough power to run components and make them sound good (only about 10W per channel!) and so they are out for now. I also found out that stock radio's reduce bass as volume increases to save the factory junk paper speakers! It would be a complete waste to invest money to try to expand or work around factory parts like you guys have said. I initially wanted to keep the stock head unit because it matches the rest of the interior and how it's integrated into the BCM. I cannot afford Dynamat so that's out. When I have the money I will gut the truck again and Dynamat it from front to back and top to bottom; Install a good double din touch screen head unit with GPS and the adapters to retain chimes and steering wheel controls, an amp driving component speakers, and a small sub to thumpity thump.

At least my exhaust sounds good.

Anytime you go into replacing a whole system it is gonna cost $$. If you just replaced all the speakers with a quality non paper speaker and insulated the cab good it would make a world of difference. The stock head unit is okay sounding at low volumes, so by insulating you would be able to hear it at low volumes. When i did my truck i used 1/4 inch thick roofing rubber for the floor and ice shield for the vertical surfaces. The floor stuff smelled like a roof for about a week but i left the windows cracked and it was fine after a week or 2. If your rears are 4.5 by 6 or whatever size they are you would be better going with a 4.5 round.

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Originally Posted by 567234ta

Anytime you go into replacing a whole system it is gonna cost $$. If you just replaced all the speakers with a quality non paper speaker and insulated the cab good it would make a world of difference. The stock head unit is okay sounding at low volumes, so by insulating you would be able to hear it at low volumes. When i did my truck i used 1/4 inch thick roofing rubber for the floor and ice shield for the vertical surfaces. The floor stuff smelled like a roof for about a week but i left the windows cracked and it was fine after a week or 2. If your rears are 4.5 by 6 or whatever size they are you would be better going with a 4.5 round.

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Thats great info man thx!!!

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Originally Posted by 567234ta

Anytime you go into replacing a whole system it is gonna cost $$.

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true, like they say if you buy the right stuff the first time and make it loud, you can always turn it down. if you half ass it and cheap out, you can't always turn it up. and IMO something is better than nothing on your panels get some fatmat it is cheap and i have put it in 4 diff vehicles and it helps more than you think.:twocents:

Just ignore me. I don't know wtf I'm talking about.

Poor Justin :LOL:

+1 on fat mat, did that in my truck and saved quite abit vs dynamat.

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Originally Posted by pl4yboy

Just ignore me. I don't know wtf I'm talking about.

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I know you know. I have no rear speakers and never will. Comps in doors amped is all you need.

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Originally Posted by pl4yboy

Just ignore me. I don't know wtf I'm talking about.

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It's just the way it works man. Rookies think that buying lots of cheap junk is equivalent or better than buying a lesser quantity of high quality products. Example: you can amp six sets of Sony xplods and they will never sound as good or loud as a pair of diamond audio or jl audio 6.5 components.

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Originally Posted by lo-lyf

It's just the way it works man. Rookies think that buying lots of cheap junk is equivalent or better than buying a lesser quantity of high quality products. Example: you can amp six sets of Sony xplods and they will never sound as good or loud as a pair of diamond audio or jl audio 6.5 components.

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It just bothers me.

And JL and Diamond will never sound as good as Rainbow or CDT ;)

pl4yboy and lo-lyf I agree with you guys, I want to do it right the first time with good stuff and be done with it. I just got a good co-op working for BorgWarner so sometime after the first of the year I should be buying components to build a whole new system. Head unit, amp, components, and a small sub. I will probably repost this thread when the time comes. Until then the exhaust sounds good and is getting louder as the temperature drops!:chevy:

Thanks for the input everybody!