All you nitrous guys...does this look right?

Just want to double check my wiring schematic before I start running wires.

White boxes are toggle switches, teal boxes are safety switches, P is purge, N is nitrous, F is fuel, FPS is fuel safety switch, WOT is wide open switch, and RPM is my activate/deactivate window switch.


Feel free to post 'better' ways of doing it, I've seen switches on both power and ground side, I tried to split it up for troubleshooting purposes incase I ever have a problem.


http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-..._1705737_n.jpg

Depending on components it may. Here is a how I hooked up a buddy's juice.
This is a negative switched trigger.
The little white letters between the window switch and relay say "negative trigger" and between the WOT and relay say "positive trigger"
http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/j...23/nitrous.jpg

It looks right to me!

Nitrous wiring is SUPER simple... Just do what makes sense and it'll work

duct_tape...what looks like it 'may not work' ? Honestly, 3 relays seems like WAY OVERKILL for a 1 stage setup. I want one for heater, one for spray, POSSIBLY one for purge (tho my kit says it is not required), seems like too many parts to cause problems. I just want to keep it simple. Only thing I'm iffy on is whether the rpm/wot switches are better on power or ground side. I know the fuel pressure has to be ground (cuz fuel is running through it lol)

I don't know what components you are using, so I don't know how they will work with each other. The reason I used 3 relays was because the WOT and window switch were old and the noids where big HD noids. They way you have it drawn the WOT switch turns on the window switch, then the window turns on the relay that also must be triggered by the FPS switch. This only happens when all conditions are met and the power is allowed to go on to the next component. I kept everything separate because he was having issues with only one of the safety switches(WOT/window) engaging. Turned out his window switch was bad and I was able to diagnose it quickly having the components separated.

all you need is the one relay, well and one for the heater too...

just keep it simple... and the window switch should say whether or not to put it on the power or ground side (if it even matters, idk which switch you have)

and just so ya know, pretty much just as much power is flowing thru a ground wire as there is a power wire, so it doesnt really matter if the FPSS is in one side or the other

dont over complicate this whole deal, and really, you dont need the FPSS... just keep an eye on your wideband or fuel pressure gauge (if you have one) and youll be fine. KEEP IT SIMPLE

I had mine where the switch actually completed the ground instead of the power. But either way works.

FPSS is for peace of mine. I'll probably set it for 40psi or so, it was 18 bucks, my uncle said they are garbage...i have a 165k on factory fuel pump, don't need it going out mid spray lol.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by pl4yboy

I had mine where the switch actually completed the ground instead of the power. But either way works.

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I thought about doing mine like that then I remember what happen to Shawn in durant and I'd rather have a hot wire incase that happens I just burn a wire and not ruin my motor lol...but as long as u don't tie your wires up with shoe string it should be ok :lol:

Fuses my friend. Fuses.

ya, those are implied, along with proper gauge wire.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by oleshifty

ya, those are implied, along with proper gauge wire.

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I was referring to Tristan's post. I guess it kinda sounded like I was telling you to use em. I was kinda getting at the fact that you could do it with a "complete the ground" approach if you fuse it correctly.

is there a + and - on solenoids and bottle heaters? or either way work?

Either way.