ALL transmission codes on??? need help

well i have my check engine light on, read the codes and they are all transmission codes,its working fine and i even checked the connections on the tranny and all are good.
there are 4 codes.

1- tourque converter clutch circit malfunction
2-shift solinoid B electrical
3-shift/timing solinoid malfunction
4-tourque converter,clutch pressure control soilinoid control circut open

i disconnected my battery and reset the computer but it came back on after like 45 min of driving? i didnt clear them ,just disconected my battery. any input?? its got a shift kit in it also and kicks super hard on first to second ,when i reset the battery it still shifted hard from first to second but not like it use to wich i liked. just a little more info.

Just a thought, but alot of times the ignition switch, which powers the trannys on these trucks, will build up resistance over time and tend to fail to supply power to the tranny. This will cause electrical problems in the tranny.

x2, even on GMFS.

http://www.gmfullsize.com/forum/showthread.php?t=199943

hmm how would i check to make sure it is the ignition switch? i have a feeling it is because when i first installed my turbo timer i tapped into the wrong wire for ignition 2 and it was acting funny . switched the wires two days later and now it works fine. maybe it messed up something

You would have to take it out and use an ohmeter to check for resistance.

check the pink wire at the trans harness to see if it has voltage. I believe it is pin E in the plug for the trans. The wire is coming from the IGN O fuse in the fuse block inside the driver side door. that is the power supply for the trans electrical. I had the same problem you did, same codes and everything. so i just spliced in that pink wire just after the fuse at the fuse block and ran a new wire down to the trans harness and spliced it in. I dont think mine was the igntion switch tho cause when i ohmed the wire from trans to fuse block it read OL which means it was either cut/pinched/frayed.

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Originally Posted by chvy=power

check the pink wire at the trans harness to see if it has voltage. I believe it is pin E in the plug for the trans. The wire is coming from the IGN O fuse in the fuse block inside the driver side door. that is the power supply for the trans electrical. I had the same problem you did, same codes and everything. so i just spliced in that pink wire just after the fuse at the fuse block and ran a new wire down to the trans harness and spliced it in. I dont think mine was the igntion switch tho cause when i ohmed the wire from trans to fuse block it read OL which means it was either cut/pinched/frayed.

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ok i checked the wire from the ignition switch pin E to the fuse block and it has voltage.

im having trouble with the transmission wire, there are 2 pink wires on the main harness connection on the trans pigtail by the shift linkage side. how do i test them? do i turn the truck on, put it on accessory or leave the key off completly? then do i test from the small pink wire from the ign0 side of the fuse block to this wire and what readings am i looking for, tried it last night but i need a little more information if you dont mind . i really appreciate it. think were on the right track here.

pm me with your email and i can shoot you some diagrams and all this will make a lot more sense then i'll try to explain it to ya cause with out the diagrams in front of you to look it, its kinda hard to figure out...

this is the plug for the wiring harness on the passenger side of the transmission (sorry its fuzzy, its the best i could do lol). Pin E (first column, third row) is the power supply for the transmission coming from IGN O fuse. With key in run position, engine off use a test light to see if there is any power coming to this pin. If no voltage is there get a long jumper wire and set your voltmeter to read ohms. you will have to pull the plug on the back side of the fuse box to access the pink wire. once you can get to that wire, using the long jumper wire put one of the voltmeter leads to the pin e of trans harness and the other to the pin for the pink wire at the plug at the fuse block. if it reads anything from like .8-3.0 ohms then the wire should be good but if it says OL or reads a lot of resistance then you have found your problem:)

well i tested the pink wire with a voltage meter and its getting 12.31 volts to it. that means its good right? so what else is going on here?? should i clear the codes and reset the computer and see if it comes back on,maybe its just an error code or something.like i said tranny is working as it should.well as good as its gonna get lol


***update- well cleared the codes and it came back on within 30 min. so theres something going on

thats weird...when mine was throwing those codes the trans wouldnt work..have you switched pcm's lately or anything??

no ,i havnt touched the pcm, this one is from allen ,had it on for id say 3 months or so. im starting to think its something with this pcm but honestly im lost and dont know what else to do.

Try putting 12v to the pink trans power wire straight from the fuse block or battery with a fused link. Clear the codes and drive it around and see if the codes come back. The loss of 12v from the steering column would be an intermittent problem sometimes.

wouldn't loss of power to the trans from the ignition cause the trans to act up? he says the trans is working fine so im confused..

Depends if the power loss is intermitant or a hard failure

Could be a bad pcm ground or broken ground wire. Tug on the grounds and see if the insulation stretches.

ill gve it another look at later tonight and see if that helps, if not ill just use a jumper wire and see if it does anything

well.....no point in testing anything lol, went to the store this morning on my way to work,it was driving fine ,shut it down,went inside ,came out and turned it on and hen i put it in D it felt like i had a 18 wheeler trailer hooked up to it, i think its stuck in 2nd or 3rd, pretty sure there is something wrong with the shift solinoid B , so im gonna try to reset the computer and see if it frees up so i can drive it to this a hole once again to fix it. geez man ,im doing the 80E conversion this is the most frustrated thing ive ever gone through, rebuilt 2 times, fixed 5 times within 4 months is ridiculous!

thats the same thing mine did...i still had second third and reverse tho. the trans is in limp mode. put it in second gear manually and it should pull off a little better... see if you have voltage to the trans on the pin E

Yeah limp mode. Be patient, Im sure its something very minor.

i reset the computer and now its back to driving right but the ck eng light is still on, i gotta work today so im gonna try to get some time tomorrow to take it to them.

If it starts in 2nd you don't have power to the trans, that is the default limp mode gear the trans will go into when electrical issues hit the trans.

maybe some gas and a lighter will fix all my problems................. i need to win the lotto,between my truck hobbie and my ATVS its always money...oh yea and the wife lol, maybe i should just put my turbo on her 07 accord 4dr lol, super sleeper style.

this thing keeps ripping my tranny mount , surly because of this so called "shift kit" he did, im sure he drilled out my Valve body ports. im gonna tell him to remove it and see what he says. is there a way to remove this thing he did or whats my options? it kicks to hard and im tired of loosing my tranny mount and affraid it will lead to a busted u-joint or even my rear end gears.

Have him remove any and all spacers/washers he installed in the 2nd gear accumulator. Some guys go overboard on the beef-up job.

ok drove 1 hr over there and they really didnt do anything and they said they cleared the code ! lol i was like umm ok so what was the problem, they said they didnt find a problem, so i was like great now i gotta drive it till the darn light comes back on. well no failure it came back on right as i pulled back into my driveway. wtf is going on with this , same codes as in the first post, ive checked pin E myself for 12v and its getting 12.31V .
what else could it be? could it be, checked the main connector on the harness and it looks great and the harness connector , could it be something from fuse block to key switch? it almost seems like its loosing power intermediatly sometimes and causes the CK ENG light to come on. its working fine but sometimes it will take off in 2nd or 3rd when i first turn on the truck like once every week and i have to disconnect the battery and reconnect it to get it back to shifting normal but the CK ENG light stays on.

dont know if its related but my coolant temp needle on my guage cluster went out friday, would work for like 15 seconds then drop straight to zero. i changed the temp sensor on the engine block and it still did the same thing , well 2 days later it just decides to start working correctly ! could this be related issue as far as an ign0 wire or something in the key switch?

When it decides to start in second gear nex time... do not turn off th engine and check for 12v on the pink wire. You could tee a small bulb into the power lead to monitor if it flickers or loses power.

think theres a problem with the ignition switch, not the key and cylinder ,but the switch connector, just ordered one from orielly for $35 , everything else is fine, hopefully this is it. cause i did some research and it turns out that my coolant temp problem is in fact related to my trans power issue, and by all the test showing up good ,the only thing is this part.


UPDATE::::: ok changed the ignition switch module and cleared the code and it came right back on after two days, one question ,when i first tapped in my turbo timer i accidently put the ignition1 source to the white wire under the steering column, ran it like that for almost 2 days until i realized that it wasnt right, i then put it to the right wire. the white wire i belive was pin E on the ignition switch has a small tap int he wire from when i used the wire taps to tap into it, could it possiblt be that this is the problem? maybe its not getting enough voltage? weird thing is i tested it at the connection to the ignition switch and its getting 12v?

ok welllllll i got my battery checked and it checked bad so i replaced it and i also disconnected my turbo timer and it hasnt come on since then, im gonna give it another day and hook back up my turbo timer and see if it was the battery or the timer causing the problem.

ok all was good then i hooked up the turbo timer and it came back on the next day, diconnected it and it went off the next day lol so it was the timer. but how?? its hooked up right, only thing i can think of is when the ignition is shut off theres no power to the whit wire under the steering column wich is pin E .