Massive lose of power in Memphis...

alright guys I've searched the site and the web looking for answers. I just installed my cam 216/224 crane matching dual crane springs comp retainers new rods lifters the works onthe top end. at night when the air is cool it runs great during the heat I'm chained to a tree. Does through the random multiple cylinder misfire p0300 which in turn throws the knock sensor p0332. Hooked up to a computer everything looks good fuel air maf cats. i'm in Memphis with no tools to work on this and the $92 dollar trip to the shop says burnt or bent valves won't close may be due to the new cam blah blah blah..

Any advice would be much appreciated

jeez bud i wish i could help ya ,im in the same shoes,i have a po300 i cant get rid of .never though of a bent or burnt valve.its typial to have more power with cooler temps,mines the same.when its real hot mine doesnt get out of its own way either.and also with a/c on forget it .lol.i cant wait to see wat u get for replies.ive changed everything that u can unbolt on my motor and still have the same issue,and cant get rid of po300 for nothing.good luck,hope i helped some.

did it have the p0300 code before you installed the cam or right after?

I bet it is tune related. Did you get it tuned after the cam? That or something wrong with the o2 sensors. Just guessing.

no I have not yet had a tune I had a rocker stud break Thursday before last and so i had to pull one head to get it out which in turn led to alot of cash and some fancy new parts. I just got it back together last Friday night after waiting on parts and so on. Cranked right up ran great. Stopped by a few performance shops to see about a tune but no one could get to it due to the holiday weekend and just backed up with business. When I stopped at Atlanta Performance the guy hooked it laptop up to the truck and checked everything out says everything looks good. Same results at a shop up here in Memphis today, which led to thoughts on the valves. If I were home I'd run a compression test and a leak down but i'm not home and i don't have those wonderful tools with me. We tried the old school dollar test and i do have some suction in the exhaust, which would most likely be the exhaust valve allowing air to pull back through on the intake stroke yes? just really weird to have that " night and day " effect which is exactly what it is.

When I dropped the heads off to have the stud removed they cleaned them. Could that have removed deposits that were keepin the valves tight?
Let's keep an open mind here folks, I want her to make it home alive. I would love to just drop a 6 in it but not right after all the cash I've put in the past week.

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Originally Posted by Ramsey

jeez bud i wish i could help ya ,im in the same shoes,i have a po300 i cant get rid of .never though of a bent or burnt valve.its typial to have more power with cooler temps,mines the same.when its real hot mine doesnt get out of its own way either.and also with a/c on forget it .lol.i cant wait to see wat u get for replies.ive changed everything that u can unbolt on my motor and still have the same issue,and cant get rid of po300 for nothing.good luck,hope i helped some.

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Well why don't you run a compression and leak down test and let me know what the out come is since we're experiencing the same kinda issue. Will do mine when I get home if not forced to go back to another shop and get raped.

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Originally Posted by gavin05

did it have the p0300 code before you installed the cam or right after?

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no codes before, atleast until the #1 intake rocker was laying by the spring on it's side. But i mean in the last year or so, just a knock sensor go out from time to time had to replace the harness

When I turbo charged my truck I had an o2 sensor in the wrong place. It did the same thing when cold ran great. When it warmed up it went to complete crap.
Good luck.

did a compression test,170-80 all the way around.holds pressure fine.just cant figure it out for nothing.hey zeake ,what exactly do u mean o2s were in the wrong place?just curious.if its possible.

in a single turbo log style you have 1 drivers side o2 in the crossover. then the 2nd bank o2 in the down pipe. If you put both o2s in the cross over both o2s only read one bank. Runs like crap after it warms up.

i had a 01 rcsb 5.3 with a cam,lt headers,no cats,3 inch exhaust,diablo programmer..i sold it a year ago but anyways after i put the cam in it,it threw po300 code but it ran good..i done some research and the reason it threw the po300 code was because the ckp sensor detects a varation at a idle caused by the cam making computer think it had a misfire..but like i said mine ran good..i would try a tune

I'll have to check it all out once I get home I guess. Will have to make an appointment to have it tuned. On the upside it's run better since my last post and the check engine light hasn't come back on but if i check it still shows the misfire and won't idle unless I turn in the screw connected to the cruise on the throttle body.

well whatever it is I hope it's no worse then mine. I just dropped a pretty coin on this truck, you'd hope all is well but we'll see

SERIOUSLY?! Just get the damn thing tuned. BY A PROFESSIONAL (have to throw that in, because clearly, you're an idiot)

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Originally Posted by sleeper1500

SERIOUSLY?! Just get the damn thing tuned. BY A PROFESSIONAL (have to throw that in, because clearly, you're an idiot)

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Jeeze man tell us how you feel about him.

Not him personally just his thought process, "Hmmm OK let's make a change to the biggest factor in an engine's operation, on a computer controlled engine. Gee I wonder why it's not running right? No the fact that the PCM is still setup as GM set it up has nothing to do with it, can't be it."

Now yes I realize that's a baby cam and the tune won't be that far out, but it is out.

The pcm biases the input from different sensors to tune be when its in open and closed loop. I'd guess that once it goes into closed loop whatever the computer is doing is less compatible with the change in input from its sensors resulting from the cam. Also bigger cam usually means the engine eats more fuel, closed loop is leaner than open loop. You're probably running lean as well. That's just me guess.

Get it custom tuned as has been said before. I went with Justin at BlackBear Preformance, he did a good job.

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Originally Posted by 2500Ak

The pcm biases the input from different sensors to tune be when its in open and closed loop. I'd guess that once it goes into closed loop whatever the computer is doing is less compatible with the change in input from its sensors resulting from the cam. Also bigger cam usually means the engine eats more fuel, closed loop is leaner than open loop. You're probably running lean as well. That's just me guess.

Get it custom tuned as has been said before. I went with Justin at BlackBear Preformance, he did a good job.

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Yea I understand this but I mean wouldn't it still be in open loop at night when the engine is at operating temp? This idiot says the canadian can go play lipfrog with a fukn unicorn. I've installed this same or similar cam in the same trucks before with no problen on stock tune, throw in workin fine during the day and not at night is kinda weird. But anyways Thanks for all the input. I took my throttle body off in the parking lot earlier and cleaned it then run that idle relearn procedure and it actually idles on it's own again so far today, but i mean it idle'd fine for the first few days and then I had to start crankin the adjustment. All is well I guess until I'm on the side of the road.

i mean closed loop...

I would seriously get a tune...when I put my cam in it threw the same codes till I went and got it tuned the next day but I had that already set up to tune it and babied it home till I got it tuned....
You will never see the true power you can get unless you get it tuned...in my mind its throwing money away if you install a cam and dont get a tune.

Should probably get a tune. General consensus you see.

Just got back to Ga dropped it off at MTI Racing this morning, Vengeance would never call me back to make an appointment..

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Originally Posted by sleeper1500

Should probably get a tune. General consensus you see.

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Yea I know it's just that stud broke and then I had to go on a job job = truck must move, it was 4th of july weekend and I didn't have a choice no one could get to it. Dropped it off at MTI today hope they can fix her up right.

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Originally Posted by nonecktribe

I would seriously get a tune...when I put my cam in it threw the same codes till I went and got it tuned the next day but I had that already set up to tune it and babied it home till I got it tuned....
You will never see the true power you can get unless you get it tuned...in my mind its throwing money away if you install a cam and dont get a tune.

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sounds like you are getting the problems fixed...let us know how she runs after

Will do they've had it for 2 days now, will call tomorrow to see how it's going. If all is good and they do the tune I'm wondering what the gain will be. She had 226 whp and 267 wtq in 2007 when the Dynomax Dyno Challenge was here at Summit Racing. Got second place due to not a whole lot of people were there, the guy that beat me only had me by about ooooo 800 hp. I just wish I was in the position to go ahead with the 6l like i had planned on.

Got the truck back from MTI Racing about 2 hours ago runs great haven't had any issues so far. Cam and tune bumped me to 265 hp ( 38 gain ) and 283 tq ( 20 gain ) i know it's not much but for now it's good

glad to hear you got it running good.

Yep good good thanks for all the help guys, sorry i was freakin out. Just have to figure out what else I can do to squeeze a little more out without getting in the motor again. I was hoping it would have been around 280 so i could milk it to 300. But LQ4 will make up the difference it's just time and $$$. I'm happy with what it is though nice steady increase throughout the rpm's and solid torque will try to post charts for anyone thinking about this cam.

Posted the charts here.. http://www.ls1truck.com/forums/showt...210#post385210