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so today, we got a zex dry kit set up for 75 horse. the instructions online say to retard the ignition 4 degrees. the hand held for this truck doesn't have that feature. how do we compensate for this? or will it be ok to run the truck like it is? truck will be tuned to premium fuel and plugs will go one range cooler before the button gets hit. will one range be okay? we scored on this one. $100 plus $20 for delivery off craigslist.
wow! nice price
And you should be alright to just spray it for short term without touching it. just take handheld off... b/c it will lean it out even more. :(
And if you aint running 75 shot much then stock temp plugs will be fine. one stage cooler will be fine
i ran the zex 100 shot on my 08' for a while w/o any timing changed etc,,just swap to ngk tr6's
yeah, but last time i priced the tr6 they were outrageous
i would imagine that the premium octane tune would be better for the way it handles the N2O
tr6 r cheap man at oreillys
well when i was at hpp the guy told someone over the phone that they were 45 for a box of 4
any idea which wire is the lead wire? instructions say use the lead wire on the tps, but idk which that is and would it be better to run it on the lead on the pedal itself? how would that work?
na bro just bought some they cost me about 17 bucks for all 8Quote:
Originally Posted by wayfastwhitey08
+1 Thats what I paid for mine..
Hey 07rstchevy any info on ur truck? Pics!
so no ideas on the lead wire?
i got it all plumbed up and now i need to run the lead wire and wires for the switch and ground. feel the need to go fry some rice. :tacos:
i learned today that they are 1.99 at autozoneQuote:
Originally Posted by 07rstchevy
The "perfomance" mode on your handheld will advance the timing. However pulling 4 degrees out of the tune for a 75 shot would return minimal results.. I would leave the timing stock and just check the plugs after you run it and look for any signs of a lean condition.
You can wire it to spray anyway you want to. You can grab the instructions for your kit here:
ZEX™ - Instruction Sheet Database
so i was helping the guys wire the box for the n2o today and the green light on the box came on for a second and went back off immediately and wouldn't come back on. but i guess when i asked one of them to clean up the wires they decided to use speaker wire. not happy. i think i will take apart the box and wire it myself.
Quote:
Originally Posted by wayfastwhitey08
ive always heard to run a dry shot through the MAF and it should compensate for the extra ''air''
zex's kit said not to put it at the maf. put it 6 to 8 inches from the tb. the zex box should compensate the fuel since it adjusts the fuel pressure regulator when it hits the n2o
oh didn't know it did that
thats what the vacuum lines in the box are for
I have never used Zex, but is sounds way overly complicated for a 75 shot imho.. I am curious how a the fuel pressure is raised via the box. Do you have any information on how that works? From what I have read in this thread so far you need to stay at 75 or below for a while. Sounds like you have a lot to learn about N20. I am not trying to sound negative I just dont want you to end up with burned or cracked exhaust valves or any other failure. Nitrous is a great power adder, however understanding how it works and more importantly how to safely achieve a given power level is a must if you want trouble free performance. Several of us on this forum have used N20 to 200 and even 300 hp gains. The thing is we all started small and most of us blew something up in the learning process. If you dont want to make those mistakes please post up before you try out that next great idea you and your buds come up with!
Bryan
When it comes to small shots simpler is always better. Run it through the MAF and on a simple wide open or window switch. Since your truck is DBW put the wide open switch under the pedal
what i read from the instructions, it said to use the lead wire on the tps or dbw to tap in for the wot switch, so you have to program the box with a series of pushing the button on the box and holding the gas down. i didn't put the n20 before the maf per the manufacturers instructions, and i wasn't there when they decided it would be a good idea to use speaker wire to extend the box wiring, so i will be re doing that. and the box has two vacuum lines that you put one directly to the vacuum port on the fuel pressure regulator and the other one on the vacuum port that was supplying vacuum to the fpr.
Man this setup is way to complicated for a 75 shot. If you are having wiring or jet questions at this power level you need to get help. Go to Allen's, shit go to any trustworthy shop. If you dont you are going to be a poster child fot the "nirous sucks" movement. If you only have one noid, spray it on a wot switch before the maf. If you have 2 noids insert 6 inches before the TB and jet accordingly. I am not an expert, some others on this board are. This is coming from experiance, experiace I have learned at the cost of heads, pistons and much more. I call it like I see it. I see you headed for disaster if you keep listening to your "buds" we need to know nitrous pressure, fuel pressure, jet sizes, and fuel pressure. I doubt you have a wideband O2 at this point, so I would suggest your first runs be done on the dyno, if the WB02 reads leaner than 13.6I would abort the run. We are all here to help you we just dont want to see you trash good heads b/c of a lean condition.
not saying youre wrong, but i have just hooked it up per the instructions, i think its pretty simple, i just dont know which wire is the right lead wire and i may just have a bad box since the light wont come back on
its got all of three wires, two vacuum lines, and a feed and supply line for the nitrous. still not sure on bottle pressure, and i think the pill said 38 but when i looked online that was a 75 shot