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I was curious how much oil should a motor with 115,000 miles be burning between, let's say 3,000 miles. I believe my motor is burning almost a quart every 5,000 miles. I use royal purple full sythetic 10w-30. I change it every 5000miles.
nevermind I dont believe it's burning as much as i thought
You probably just need a catch can or breathers instead of the pcv system,my 03 would burn a quart every 3000 until I put breathers on it. Didnt use a drop after.
Sorry dont mean to hijack but do you have a picture or advice on how to install the catch can? And bypass the pvc. I think that is my problem also. That and the rear main.
That's not thread jacking.... lol. Yeah please post up pics i am too interested my truck runs great, so I dont plan on an engine swap anytime in the future
Sorry I am new to this some people get all bent outa shape on other sights lol.:doofus:
nah dude it's cool, i want to know how too, looks like we may both benefit from this. maybe we can see a write-up or something
I hope it would help.:party:
+1 for write up
i think gm revised a pcv valve for that problem.saying on some of the originals it was letting oil through into intake then combustion chamber.i was using about 1/2 quart between oil changes and now with my new pcv i have had 3 oil changes and havent used any oil.i want to say it was only like 3-6$ at blorielly's.
is there a certain year I need? or just a new one for my '03?
Yeah, these things vaporize the oil and consume if I remember seeing that on here before. almost 1/2 qt here every 3K.
Just go to ebay and search catch can and you see a bunch of different pictures and such. As far as the breathers just take the pcv line off of the drivers side valve cover and the top of the intake,get a k&n breather that fits the hole in the valve cover and put a vacuum cap over nipple on the intake.
you could try switching oils. when i went from mobil 1 to royal purple i noticed my motor drinks alot more rp than m1. went from 1 quart every 3k of mobil 1 to about a quart every 1k miles with the RP. these motors seem to gulp down the royal purple.
wowQuote:
Originally Posted by TXsilverado
my truck is a toy though. that 1k miles is driven HARD.
Your '03 should already have the fixed orifice PCV valve. Here's the info from Rockauto.com:Quote:
Originally Posted by lowchevytrucks8503
ACDELCO Part # CV4000C {#12572717}
VALVE,PCV w/4-SPD A/TRANS(M30)
dont forget to mention you have a higher mileage well worn ls1Quote:
Originally Posted by TXsilverado
to the OP ditch the PCV totally. dont worry about a catch can thats just something ppl made money on ppl with. Install 2 breathers one on each valve cover. cap all the existing lines off and run 6.5 quarts of oil in yoru rigt and youll be fine till you cahnge your oil at 3500 miles
my last two motors didnt consume any oil, id didnt route the fumes back into the motor either. Also routing the fumes which can also be oil vapors can lead to detonation. oil doesnt mix well in the combustion chamber
what size breathers are needed as far as the part that goes in the valve cover?Quote:
Originally Posted by Quik
Bump
I'm interested in this too. Does anyone have a engine pic with the breather filter installed?
do you guys run 5w30 like recommended or 10w30?
10-30
Whats the benefit of running 10w-30 as opposed to 5w-30?
10-30 is a thicker oil, better suited for hot temperatures. 5-30 is a thinner oil used in cooler temperatures.
HowStuffWorks "Measuring Motor Oil Viscosity"
i gotta say, my 4.8L has 117k miles and it doesn't burn a drop that i can tell
and i check it every week religiously. the only problem i've had is one super noisy lifter
Well, I live in a rural town about 40 miles west of St. Louis, MO. Out temps at times range from below zero in the winter to low 100's in the summer. Change oil weight depending on season or just stick with 5w-30?
10W-30 will cover you for all those temperatures.
Photobucket | temperature Pictures, temperature Images, temperature Photos
Might want to bump it up to 10W-40. This summer I'm probably going to switch to 10-40.
I have always used 5W-30 Mobil 1 in my 5.3. Got 153,000mi on it with only minor problems. Some of the new Toyotas I work on spec 0W-20 for the climate here in NE Texas.
Alot of it has to do with the amount of bearing clearance and not just temperature. The less bearing clearance your engine has the thinner the oil must be to maintain the proper flow through the bearings for cooling and lubrication. The more bearing clearance your engine has the oil will have to be thicker in order to maintain the oil film that hydraulically protects the bearing surfaces from metal to metal contact under the pressure from the combustion process. To sum this little bit of knowledge up I would recommend running what ever was speced for your engine from the oem manufacture or the bearing manufacture on a rebuild.
Good point, I didn't even think about the clearances.
I had the same thing in my Z28. Switched from Valvoline to RP and it drank well over a quart in 3000 "spirited" miles. I switched back right away, but it continued to use more oil than it had before I dumped the purple shit in my engine.Quote:
Originally Posted by TXsilverado
if you still have your crankcase breather going into the intake manifold, plug it and put some K&N style breathers on the engine, you'll cut down your oil consumption tremendously if its being cause by RPMs over 2500 creating oil mist in the engine.
I'm still trying to figure out where the crankcase breather is and what the filter looks like installed.