first through reverse, gone!!!!!!!!

Well i installed the new raptor tranny and TC i got from another member on here. Im pretty sure the tranny is ok, it however has no gears at all. I was on the gas pretty hard at about 5500rpm's, when it made a loud pop and went into a neutral. I stopped and it has no gears but its not throwing any codes or lights or anything on the dash like the old 4l60e did. Its also not leaking anything either. so im not real sure but im hoping the TC came apart or something. Its a 2500 TC. Im thinking that the fella who put it in didnt have enouph oil in it. were gonna get it back out and take a look tomarow. sorry about the long post

how many miles before it let go?... First step... Check fluid level cold with engine off... THEN crank the engine and see if the fluid level drops ... thats the first step.... if its not reading on the stick with engine off and cold... thats trouble also... new dry 4l60 will take 10-11.5 quarts....

damm that sux,hope u get it up and going again

Input shaft, output shaft, or pump. If the output shaft is broken it will roll in park. Most times the cause on a new install is not having the converter in all the way which breaks the pump when you tighten the bell housing bolts. This is probably why Casey asked about the level going down with the engine running. If it does, my guess is input shaft. Bet the pump is shattered.

ok well thanks for the advise. i will have to check tomarow.

I'll place my bet on the input shaft.

if u can stick ur finger in where u put the converter bolts and spin the converter ur trans pump should be ok but in a way that stinks cus its a easier chaper fix (yes i did this once) but i never started it i went to put the converter bolts in and slaped my self in the face cus i knew what i did right away its a cheapish fix mine was done in 30 minuts to

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Originally Posted by GasGuzzler

Input shaft, output shaft, or pump. If the output shaft is broken it will roll in park. Most times the cause on a new install is not having the converter in all the way which breaks the pump when you tighten the bell housing bolts. This is probably why Casey asked about the level going down with the engine running. If it does, my guess is input shaft. Bet the pump is shattered.

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That was my exact guess too before I saw your post. I've seen far too many people not seat the converter far enough and had that pump break about 20 miles down the road or sooner.

im with nathen i would put money on the input or output

also if it was seated correctly theres measurements that need to be taken, like gap between flexplate and foot of converter some converters need spacers the gap between is like .125, i had a gap of .250 with a fuddle converter, yes it took out the pump on first run, had to use a .125 shim which i made at work, theres a right up on pt.net that explains this procedure, thus keeping from breaking the pump.

ok i checked a couple things before work this morning. when its in park it doesnt roll. and i checked the oil, when cold it has plenty, if anything maybe a half a court too much. Im gonna say its the converter insatallation i guess. I will try and tear it all apart today or tomarow

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Originally Posted by GasGuzzler

... Most times the cause on a new install is not having the converter in all the way which breaks the pump when you tighten the bell housing bolts. This is probably why Casey asked about the level going down with the engine running. If it does, my guess is input shaft. Bet the pump is shattered.

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Originally Posted by ecmoney

...Im gonna say its the converter insatallation i guess. I will try and tear it all apart today or tomarow

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Exactly. When reinstalling the TC, make sure to grab it with both hands and spin it back and forth while pushing on it...then listen for it to fall towards the tranny TWICE. You will hear and fell it "clunk" twice. That way you know its in there. The face of the converter should be about an 1.5" inside the face of the bellhousing.

OR you can look at the input and see the tabs where the converter needs to side in...in relation to the key-way on the hub of the converter. Mark the slots if the input on the bellhousing and line up the converter as best as you can from your markings. Push and twist at the same time until it is fully seated.

Guys, what's weird is that I've seen more than one shattered pump that made it 1000 miles before the truck wouldn't go. I know....sounds impossible but it is...ask *cough*brad*cough*....

One thing I have to add is how do you get anything bolted up if the TC isn't seated in the pump...Wouldn't it bind up from not being in far enough, this would cause it to bind against the flexplate, correct?

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Originally Posted by DBRODS

One thing I have to add is how do you get anything bolted up if the TC isn't seated in the pump...Wouldn't it bind up from not being in far enough, this would cause it to bind against the flexplate, correct?

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Seems so to me. Then again I have seen it from 40' and it only makes a POP...sometimes up to 15 minutes after the bellhousing bolts are tightened. The clue to me is how hard the crank must be to turn to allow converter bolt installation but by then it's BROKE.

so if thats the case. do you guys think that all those parts need replacing?like the TC

Either shaft, probably just need to fix what's broken. If the rotor in the pump is shattered and all the peices stayed in there, probably just need a pump.

ok that helps alot thanks. Im gonna get it out probably thursday or friday. so we will see the damage