Clutch Advice

The Trans Am I put the engine in has received a lot more mods and I need people with direct experience with the T56 in the F car and aftermarket clutches. The guy put a tune, some sort of traction bars, and a 150 shot on it with drag radials and the clutch will not hold (duh). He knows the rear axle is going to pop but doesn't care....looking for a glory pass. The car has gone 8.3 @ 93 with a clutch so hot it stuck in gear. The clutch in it right now is a brand new clutch, flywheel, pressure plate, and bearing I put in less than 3K miles ago when I swapped the engine. Any advice appreciated on which one to get.

The clutch sticking and not able to shift might have something to do with the clutch fluid getting hot, does it have long tubes, if so, this is a common problem.

why won't hold? not sure, just thought i'd answer a question that wasn't asked lol

Yeah, thanks Allen. I talked to Greg about it on the phone and I surmised the fluid might be boiling. The car does not have LT's...the only thing I think I forgot was the 4.10's.

Neither the car's owner nor I expect the new stock clutch to hold on DR's and the juice hence the shopping spree for a different set up.

He's installing a different shifter with a line lock button as well as the line lock between now and when the clutch is going in so I have a couple days to check into it (plus shipping time).

ya, need to do the drill mod to the hydraulic clutch line. a good clutch for the price are the centerforce clutches. I have one on the shelf....lol

Wanna sell it? Will it fit a Trans Am? What's the drill mod? Thanks for the advice.

There is a restrictor in the hydraulic line, and you need to drill it. Probably also boiling the fluid. Drag racing my M6 Z28 was a challenge, to say the least.

McLeod Master Cylinder and Drill Mod Install: www.InstallUniversity.com

^^link for the "drill mod"

I really don't think you need to replace the clutch itself, I've never seen one slipping, even with spray. I'm positive you are dealing with a hydraulic issue, the same one I had on my own car. I had 4.10 gears and drag radials also. Here's a pic.
http://i557.photobucket.com/albums/s...1/DSC00018.jpg
http://i557.photobucket.com/albums/s...1/DSC00013.jpg

So might try this 1st. Thanks for the link and advice. I'll update later.

Guy came back by today and advised he put in a Zoom clutch kit and the car responded with a 7.78 @ 93 with no lock up or shifting issues.

His Richmonds are starting to really whine as they always seem to do so he checked on GM 4.10's for the sucky 7.625". Retail for only $865. :LOL:

I told him to get a Strange or Moser 9" fully built for a little more than twice the price of GM gears that will blow out anyway. He stated he had to wait 'til the 22nd to get his oil check. :burnout:

The pinion gear for the 7.6 with 4.10 is VERY small......

Mine made noise after break-in, didn't change for 3 years, never broke, just made noise. Brother in law bought the car and lived with it for another 2 years.

Yeah....that's the thing. He told me they made noise. I then asked him if they were Richmonds. :lol:

The I started giving him diameter and spline count specs. Knowing that he's going to be leaving at 4000+ RPM on the 150 shot and DR's and the $1000 side job it would be to put quiet GM gears in it we decided to put the 9" in and sell the spindly stock one.

The 9" would be nice & strong. My plans were for a Mosier 12 bolt setup. Wanted to keep it in the GM family. :greg:

Yeah, I get ya. The 9" gives up a small amount of power with it's lower pinion centerline but it much easier to set up. The 9" and 12-bolt are about the same strength when beefed up, cost about the same, and weigh about the same. The Dana60 can be built stronger, is heavier and usually more costly, and is a PITA to set up.