Printable View
Its a 05 RCSB 5.3 2wd.
its going to have 26 1/2" slicks on it so traction shouldnt be a problem!
mods are.
4.11s with tru trac, long tube headers, ORY and no cats
dyno tuned for 93, transgo hd shift kit, vette servos
K&N CAI, 160 stat
it made 280/315 with 3:23s and 29" tall tires on a dynojet
Just a guess, 14.1 @ 95mph
in the 8th??i dont know,but 1/4 mile maybe 14.5
that truck best run a high 13 IMHO
my truck with 15k on it stock as the general made it minus a K&N filter and flowmaster muffler on stock goodyear ST rubber my truck went 14.6@93 mph with a 2.1 60' back in april of 2003
this was a 5.3 with 373 gearing in a fully loaded LS truck with a system.
http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w...gs/146slip.jpg
Sounds slow, George. He wants to know his times in the 1/8th mile. :laugh:
look on the slip^^^^^^^^ should give him an idea on his times.Quote:
Originally Posted by RedHeartbeat
ok thanks guys. I'm ready for the track to open back up
9.20-9.40
Can't see George's slip.
9.4 is what that shows
Cool. That's what my boat ran once. Might be close but I stand with my real guess above.
What about with a 3500 streetfighter stall?
How much more would the stall help me?
How much should the stall knock off in the 1/8th? Also, Dose anyone have a write up one putting one in?
You have a stock cam? If so a mid 2000's stall might get you .13-.26 in the 8th....if the cam has been swapped the stock converter is a cork. After a healthy cam swap a stock converter is taking away at least .48 in the 8th given good traction with no wheel hop.
Where are you located? I typically do converter swaps on 2WD's in less than 90 minutes provided the truck is not so low it doesn't fit on the rack and your headers and y-pipe are either out of the way or come apart...
I'm in West TN. Damn your fast! and the stall is a 3500, stock cam. mods are in my sig. I'm going to have 26" tall drag radials on the truck and they prep the track good so it should hook. truck has 4.11s and tru trac also..
3500 stall is an AZZ load for a stock cam and 26" is way short for 4.11 IMO but it ought to run well. The good thing is you've got the mods done with future plans in mind. All that stuff will match without multiple swaps some day.
Get a lift and $40K in tools and you'll be able to swap a 2WD trans in 90 minutes too....LOL. Hell, plenty of guys on here can do that in the driveway with no lift in the snow up hill both ways.
What size DR's you think I should run? I havnt naught them yet but I'm going to put them on my stock 17s.. also, My next thing is a cam swap so I wanted to get everything else out of the way...
I'd want at least 28" if not 29" with as much section width as I could afford wheels for....
(yes I ended a sentence with a preposition Tyler...I mean asshat...I mean Adam)
Ok Thanks, Do you think My truck will atleast run 8.90s? it was running 9.80s at 77 with the 3:23s and spinning pretty bad..
8.90's? Maybe not until the converter tune and cam. Who knows?
Will i need to get a re-tune with the converter?
Yes, that dramatic of a change needs TCC table help IMO.
ok thank you sir! I'm debating putting the stall in or having a shop do it. Got any good info on installing one? Making it easier?
Remove the trans. Swap the converter making sure it's all the way in before bolting the trans back to the engine. Fill trans and tweak tune. Road test. Done.
I've pulled plently of manuel trans and motors (owned a 90 foxbody) But never messed with a auto. I heard you got to listen for it to click like 3 times and make sure its all set right? or dose it just bolt on?
Spin and push, spin and push. There's a clunk with each step. Never counted the clunks myself but at least three. When it's in all the way not only will your fingers not fit behind it but there will be little room at all between the converter and the rear portion of the bellhousing. Last but not least, when it's back up on the dowels on the engine BEFORE you tighten the trans to engine bolts, make sure the trans is flush against the engine AND AND AND you can turn the converter by hand through the starter hole (meaning it's not in a bind but IS installed all the way).
This is some good info...I'm about to drop a Circle-D 3200 stall in my SS as soon as my LTs get here. I figured if I had to unbolt all that crap I might as well not put the stock crap back on right! HAHAHA! My wife loves my logic...
OH and I'd bet you can run a 9.0 in the 1/8 with those mods before a cam and stall. My truck is at 9.17 and it's a lot heavier and has less mods. You should be at right about the same power/weight as me.
my view of things. run with smallest tire possible. a 410 gear with 26" tire is ideal for most ppl. ppl use tire to help aid in lack of traction. most dont even have enough motor to use larger tire
as for stall 3500 is perfect. lok at stock peak torque and youll see a 3500 will work ideally
you dont need a retune with a stall by the way
sometimes you do need changes made to the auto side of tune
If I went from stock to 3500 I'd want the TCC tables adjusted for sure.
i just ran a 9.1 with mods in sig....for u i guess....um....9.4ish
Thats kind of the way I see it. My 20s have 28.6" tall tires on them and after it hooks in 2nd it has a small dead spot were its slugish feeling. I had 26" tall wide street tires on it that didnt hook that good but it was trapping 76-79 in the 1/8 at 9.80 were my dads powerstroke was runnin 9.2s all night peg legging at 72-74mph..Quote:
Originally Posted by Quik
EDIT: that was with 3:23 gears and stock stall in my truck.
I'm going to buy hptuners soon.. Dynospeed is shady as hell and no one close tunes so i'm going to give it a shot!Quote:
Originally Posted by GasGuzzler