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Well, my truck is getting up there in miles, aprox. 80,000. I am thinking that I may want to switch to a synthetic or synthetic blend. Are these types of oil better for higher mileage engines, or should I just switch to the high mileage oil. I don't have a preference of brands. I have always used quaker state, so I will probably stay with that. Just trying to get some info.
Thanks,
Randy
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I think that with a chevy 80K is just getting it broken in. However, on the subject of oil Mobile One and Royal Purple are the ones I use. I do not have any statistical data and I am not an expert but these are the two that I use.
I have heard that if you change to synthetic you are not supposed to go back to standard oil. dont know if that is true or not. I only run synthetic and change the oil at 7K miles. :twocents:
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yuck, parafin based crude oil!!! Does Qstate and Pennz still wax coat the insides of the engine? I quit using both of them after seeing what those oils do to insides of an engine block. Build-up so heavy that some of the return holes in the heads and valve lifter valley area filled in and valve springs so coated that you could not even see the springs any more.
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I heard it's just best to stay with what you've always ran. I only use mobel1
later,
allen
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I just went to M1 in a 175K mi LS400 Lexus... seems to run fine still. I have M1 in my Z and WRX too.
I change the filters every 5K and dump it all around 20K...reason being is when you change the filter you have to add a quart also. I've done this for a while and the truck runs great. :smile:
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Well since I do this for a living Ill give you my opinion. I used mobil 1 and it was great, then I started using royal purple and it was alot better. I would not use a high mile oil b/c it is just the same as basic oil with some added not worth the money. I also agree with the penz and quacker diss. It doeshave wax in it and wll build up on your motor. I would do a motor flush, and then use mobil or royal purple. With the purple you will gain some lost hp. Might not notice at first but I say its the best. If you live in the houston area I can hook you up with some royal purple for real cheap and I also can d the motor flush for you, just let me know.
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ditto...flush you motor and go to a synthetic...motor will thank you for it :jump: i use castrol syn because i can get it at any walmart..they carry mobil 1 also.
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djkir23, give us houston guys an address where you work. If you have a business I will start using you for oil changes. :lol:
PM me if you want
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Is there a way to do the engine flush at home? I hate to go to a place that will charge me out the ass for something I can do at home. Unfortunately I don't live in the houston area, I live in the Dallas area. Thanks for the input, but I have a hard time beleiving it is only Quacker state that has a problem with paraffin in their oil, as most companies probably get their oil from the same place. If all the paraffin business is true, I will probably switch to a synthetic oil after I get an egine flush.
Thanks,
Randy
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well the one we use is made buy Gumout and im sure u can buy it some where and doit youself and where i work we charge $50 i think. If you want anymore info from me let me know.
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Do you have to flush the engine before changing to synthetic? If so are you flushing the parifin out.
I have run synthetic oil since I purchased the truck, so I am curious about the flush thing
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Not to offend anyone, but I don't really beleive the whole peraffin thing. I just think that there is probably some gunk built up inside the engine, whether it be from oil or carbon, tha needs to be cleaned out after 80,000 miles of use. I am thinking of switching to synthetic or a synthetic blend for increased protection with high miles. I don't know if this is right or not.
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Yes this would be the best thing to do is use some kind of syn. Its not really gonna matter what kind of basic oil you use its gonna get build up. they all have waxs in them and its best to use syn. Also most syn bond to your motor to protect 100 times better, but like yo were talking about using a high mile oil, its not worth the money. Id just sped a few dollars more and get a bled or just go all out witfull syn.
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Even with the cheapo oils, just change them often to avoid problems...
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i went to royal purple on mine. i have it in the trans-diff-engine-and purple ice in the radiater. :taunt: :lol:
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By far the best oil is Amsoil. It out performs Mobil 1, royal purple, red line and any other oil on the market. I have done lots of research on this comparing spec sheets and no one comes close to Amsoil. That's what I would use.
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If you had ever torn down an engine running paraffin based oils you would know what we were talking about. I have run Castrol GTX in engines for 120,000 miles and torn them down and they are perfectly clean when it comes to any build-up on metal parts. I also have torn down engines running Pennz that the owner was proud that the only oil he ran was Pennz. The engine was so gunked up I had to send it to be vatted just so I could work on it. That nasty wax build-up was everywhere.
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same here greg. gunked up so bad...had to clean the heads with a steam cleaner.
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Greg, what type of oil do you use?
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I run Castrol GTX in everything. The engine with 120k on it had zero wear on the piston walls when I tore it down. All the bearings were almost like new. I can't be more pleased with the performance of Castol oils. I even run conventional Castrol GTX in my LS1 instead of Mobil 1 or any others. It's hard to argue with proven performance. I tried Mobil 1 in my Astro for 3 straight oil changes for a total of 12,000 miles and it made zero changes in fuel mileage. I have since gone back to Castrol GTX 5w30 and it hasn't hurt a thing and the fuel mileage is still consistant and the Astro has 170k miles on the stock engine and goes strong without oil consumption problems.
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I use to work at a lube shop. Castrol gtx is the only oil I'll use. I've seen first hand what other oils can do to a motor. Our manager had pictures of his truck with 350,000 miles on it. At 180K he rebuilt the top end, the heads were completely gunked up. All he had used was pennzoil. After the rebuild he switch to castrol, at 300k he tore apart he motor again and it looked brand new. Moble 1 and other synthetics are great but if you don't want to spend the extra money on them use castrol gtx. :thumb:
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I am sorry, but it is just hard to beleive to me that there is only one conventional engine oil out there that doesn't put any build up on the heads, since all conventional engine oil is made from perefinic oil. I agree with hitman that if you change your oil regularly you will prevent sludge. I know everyone is going to come back with "I am in the business, so I know." I just think that if Pennzoil and Quaker State were the only two that put build up and sludge in an engine that they would be out of business. I am going to pull my valve covers in a couple of weeks and check to see what my heads look like.
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If you do a little research you will find that the crude oil that is pulled from the earth in the northern united states and canada is very high in paraffin. That is the oil that Pennz and Qstate use in their refineries in addition to foreign oils. You cannot remove paraffin from oil without very expensive processes so they left it in the refined motor oils. I remember a few years ago they both had big ad campaigns saying they reformulated their oil but that was long after they stunk up my opinion of their oil.
BTW, nobody said they are the only one that doesn't leave build up. They are just the two that I know that used to gunk up motors I owned and worked on for others.
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So, in your opinion and research does it show that the synthetic oil is a better product to use. I know in the past I have achieved over 200K mile on the castrol oil.
Now I only use synthetic and usually will keep a truck for at least 200K. Think I can make that on synthetic?
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Personally, I work for an oil company and I would prefer you use conventional motor oil instead of synthetic but that choice is for you to make. Synthetics are excellent products and I would not discount their claim to reduced friction and improved performance. In my own personal experiences I have found no true inprovement in fuel mileage. I have never run a new vehicle on synthetics oils and torn into after many miles. i did buy my current LS1 engine used and it was pretty clean on the inside though it had some dark deposits on the aluminum. The cylinders were is good shape though it had spun rod bearings. I don't know the history of the engine other than it was a dealership take-out. No history of type of oil used in this motor or if it was sythetics. I hear constantly of LS1s biting the dust due to spun rod bearings. Many believe a ported oil pump will prevent this from happening but I am waiting to try the pump from the new design variable displacement LH6 which is a much larger capacity pump.
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I use mobil1 and couldnt be happier
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MINE SPUN A BEARING , or more like 4..last month.. I had to replace the engine. I've used Chevron 5.30 ever since I've owned it, b/c I get it where I used to work and the whole service isn't but $20...Anyones opinion on Chevron oil?
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M1 for me in everything I own
I worked in several garges and dealers
I have seen first hand terrible things with Quaker and Penz
I have had great success with GTX in the past
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castrol syntec here...can tell a diff between it and conventional oil...specially in my big truck..