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I am running 2 amps in my truck right now. a 400 to my highs and a 1800 to my subs. Aside from obviously turning the amps down is there any other options to get more juice . At this point on a fast rock song the bass hits hard enough to drain my battery dry. Virgil told me the trail blazer alt is a higher out put then the trucks. If this is so would the same alt be on the v6 models or would it only be on the 5.3 blazer? Any ideas?
TrailBlazers have an inline 6 or a V-8. The six alternator probably won't fit. Not sure the rating on the V-8 model but it's surely higher than the one you have. You could also use a 145 or 160 amp from a Denali or Escalade.
Have you looked at all into a bigger battery??
+1...small wires cause fires!!...trust me :nono:Quote:
Originally Posted by Quik
what gauge wires to do you advise? Ill handle that this weekend. Till this i burnt up the 1800w anyway. Haha. I was experimenting how fast I had to drive to keep the Bat charged... Turned out with it up on a fast enough song it just shuts off.... So I also go to find out if its salvageable
i told you the TBSS was the replacement to use its a 145 amp and its a direct plug in
All i rememberd was that it was something to do with a trail blazer. I am going to price one soon.
The big 3 is a necessity, and use 1/0 wire. Also, have at least 1/0 running to your amps as well
try using a capacitor
Caps act as another drain...this will make the problem worse. They are worthless.Quote:
Originally Posted by smokintrees
Do what everyone has said. Larger alt, do the big 3, and make sure you have large power wire running to your amp. If you listen to the stereo with the engine off regularly for extended periods of time, get a deep cycle battery.
I'm probably running one of the highest powered stereos on here... 3400 watts. He's what needs to be done.
1. Big 3 in 0 gauge.
2. biggest possible wire your amps accept.
3. Your alternator should be upgraded. The general rule in the audiophile community is 10 amps per 1000 watts on a stereo. Therefore, to be powered properly, I suggest a H/O alternator from MotorcityReman, Iraggi, or similar. I'm running a 240 amp H/O from MCR and I know that violates the general rule, but see the next item on the list.
4. A second battery, wired properly. Yellowtops are a top choice. I suggest a Kinetik or Batcap though. I'm running a Batcap 2000.
NEVER use a cap. Caps act as a band-aid for your problem. It may look like the issue is fixed, but I promise, you'll be thanking us later when your amps are still functional.
smaller pulley on the alternator? just run wire from ur positive terminal to ur alternator. and then run ground to ur chassis and block.(all 0 gauge)
i have a 2000watt amp in my truck for my lows
and a 600 watt for my highs
and my volts go down to 10-11 driving down the road at 25-30 mph
i agree with te big 3 upgrade, but really when you listening to you stereo with the truck truck not running it doesn't matter what you do it is going to run your battery down pretty fast.
batcapp is what you need
I have the same problem, just bought 20 batts to fix it ;)
http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f1...ld/amprack.jpg
http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f1...wermasters.jpg
For some reason the headlights still dim :LOL:
Alot of good advice in here, Id by all means do the big 3 and look into a larger alternator. Theres a ton of good alternator companies out there, mechman, motorcity, and I have to plug my sponsor Powermaster. I would by all means stay away from iraggi. I can dig up enough post to bog this forum of complaints on his customer service, the product itself is good but god forbid if you ever need service after the sale.
Also what battery are you running and how old is it, seems like it might be giving in as well?
Stay away from the capacitors, as mentioned it just ends up being another load.
Theres a ton of variables that could play into your situation, but without more info its hard to say.
I do specialty automotive electrical for a livin...High amp alternators...Super High Torque Starters...all that stuff...I run twin 340amp alternators on my truck...
But I know their your sponsor but....
I think powermaster and stinger over-rate and WAY over charge($) there products
powermaster 200amp = $422.99 At local stereo shop (old style delco 10si)
My alternators = $1 +/- an amp so a 200 amp = $200-$300 depending on application and warranty (same as stock)
Just my :twocents:
or just turn the system down youll be deaf in no time fast. Used to be big on stereos in the day had to be loudest now id just be content with good sound.
+1Quote:
Originally Posted by Quik
I can agree powermaster isnt the cheapest, but from my experience they have been the best as for performance as well as customer service. Would I like for them to be cheaper? Sure who wouldnt, but with cutting cost something would have to give somewhere and Id just as soon stick with paying a little more and knowing the quality of product Im getting. And by no means is that knocking your product Im sure its great.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr.Cornelius
Got picks of the dual alt bracket? Been thinking about doing similar to my tow pig.
i have this same problem! I have a 145A alt., a kicker ZX750.1 amp and 3 10 inch subs, it sucks my battery dry and forces my amp into protect mode which drives me crazy. I have a red top optima, and 4 gauge wire. any suggestions??
Not big enough Virgil. For every 1000 watts, you need 10 amps of alternator.Quote:
Originally Posted by mean05
You need:
Big 3 Upgrade (Gooogle it.)
Larger alternator
Possibly a spare battery.
Thats probably your subs pulling more power than the amp can put out.Quote:
Originally Posted by devin_deville
im sorta new to the audio world and experimenting on my own a lil bit...but do you use a good quality battery like the optima yellow or blue top....i run a yellow after hookin my system up and seems to work very well...
trevor
it was. i hooked up 2 parallel. i'm good nowQuote:
Originally Posted by pl4yboy