As the title states i need t know how to check for coil bind or valve float because i have broken another rocker arm
Any help is apreciated
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As the title states i need t know how to check for coil bind or valve float because i have broken another rocker arm
Any help is apreciated
If you have never had probelms like this and haven't changed any of the valvetrain (ie the valves, valve springs, cam, timing chain, lifters, pushrods or rockers), than I would have no clue why it would do it.
As far as how to check if they are bottoming out, you will need to put a feeler gauge in between the coils when fully compressed from the cam and whatever the springs are rated for is what they are not sapposed to go past. It should say on the spec sheet for the cam. I forget exactly what they call it.
well its a brand new motor all new valve train so im not sure whats causing it
the springs are manley part #221428-16 with an instaled height of 1.8 @ 150#
the cam is a custom ground bullet 226/224-586/578 on a 115 lsa
the rocker arms are comp pro magnums 1.75 ratio
Those springs are rated for 0.600" max lift.
Your intake lobe is rated at 0.586" (I'm assuming w/1.7 rocker arm).
Your rocker arms are 1.75, which will translate into 0.603" at the valve.
That won't put you into coil bind, but you are pushing the envelope with the springs.
Were the heads milled?
Have you checked your push rod length?
It might be prudent to re-check your rocker arm geometry on the valve.
Might wanna try stock rockers as others have suggested.
Check you pushrods, a lot of times if it was coil bind the push rod will bent.
Have you gotten with Tommy yet about this.?
Here is a solution to your problem. You can get rocker spacers to raise the rocker so that it will not over compress the springs. That should fix the problem, but you will need to get stronger springs and make sure that they will not mess up your cam. That should be everything, but make sure that you haven't bent or "crushed" (made them shorter from impact) the pushrods. If you want to change the springs get some that will work best in what you want your motor to be. Don't go and spend the money on something that you are going to have to replace down the road, lots of people do it, I am just saying it doesn't make sense!
Usually only needs to be spaced up about .002 or so, mainly to keep the springs from binding. You will have to do the math to be able to tell exactly what needs to be in there.
The spacer should only be very minute of a change but when amplified by the rocker ratio, then it should be enough. The height difference should only be about .002" so they shouldn't come any closer than what is already there.
yeah i talked to him about it yesterday and he is ordering me some new spring because i think that i am floating the valve over 4500 rpm and manley just started making a dual spring which even he didnt know about there part #221436-16 there good up to .660 lift and only have 5 more pounds of seat pressure su i wont have to worry about the lifters. and none ofd the push rods are bent thats y i think that i am floating the valves
And does anyone know where i can get a spring changing tool because ill have to do this in the truck and also how big of a pain is it to change them in the truck
If you hook up an air line into the cylender through the spark plug then you should be able to remove the spring with a spring compressor from your local parts store, then you should be able to hold up the valves with the air and change the springs that way.
That is the only way that I know how to change them while the heads are still on the block. You might be able to get the springs off another way besides an spring compressor, but I have never tryed nor do I know of a way.
Good luck!
Valve float doesn't break rockers. You can borrow a spring compressor or request the home made one on this site. Make a search....it's been offered as a pass it around tool.
Here is the tool http://www.ls1truck.com/forums/tools...uber-tool.html