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Its a 2006 GMC w a 4.8L and he is wanting to do an LQ9 swap. Correct me if im wrong on these
1. A LQ9 would be an easier swap because he has a 4L60e and the lq4 was mated with the 4l80e.
2. Will everything swap right over? Engine Harness, fuel lines, engine mounts? I believe they will all work right?
3. This should be a fairly easy swap right?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Red03SilSS
1. The only difference between transmission types is the flexplate and spacer. You can do either - just put your original parts on the new engine.
2. Use all your stock accessories...they will all swap.
3. Pull out the old one, swap over any parts that are not the same, drop the new one in, tune, and go. Very simple.
Be sure to get a 2002 or newer 6L to get the LS1 size crankshaft end. The early models had a longer crank and requires a flat flexplate, not dished. Also, double check the bolt pattern of the flywheel to the converter before it goes in the truck, if you have to rework the holes in the flywheel to mate up to the converter, its so much easier to do out of the vehicle. That or just use the flywheel off the 4.8L engine.
should be easy, just use the 4.8 flex plate, front drive acc and harness and put it on the 6.0 and shove in the truck and :burnrub:
If he's getting an LQ9 like the original post said he won't have to worry about having an old style engine with the longer crank snout.Quote:
Originally Posted by RedHeartbeat
Gotta update the tune, too.
OK it seems like it would be fairly easy, next question.
Anyone know where I could get a used one? My friend has the money and is dead serious.
PM Kurt and get the # of the salvage yard that he's all the time saying has 6.0L engines for sale. You might call Hi-Way Auto and see if Austin has one, too.
OK if we were to do an lq4, what all would need to be done for the tranny?
I found this?
eBay Motors: 03 04 05 06 07 Hummer Yukon Suburban Engine 6.0L Motor (item 200260642694 end time Nov-04-08 14:11:12 PST)
intake manifold off the 4.8 woud work right?
Steer clear of ebay engines unless they're local. You can get screwed royally on one. LKQ is nationwide. Call them for local options, or Greenleaf salvage for national options.
Yeah we use LKQ here at the shop for previously loved parts. That price doesnt seem bad.
LKQ isn't bad as far as eBay goes but Greg is right....that's a mighty big item to buy used, site unseen.
Not to mention export fees from Canada and the amount of corrosion caused by winters, salt and other nastiness from that area that's going to make the engine look like crap.
Quote:
Originally Posted by RedHeartbeat
Yeah. I PMed Kurt like you mentioned and hes gave me a number and he might call also. So maybe ill find something good.
True you should see mine after just 40000 km (bout 24900 miles) very dirtyQuote:
Originally Posted by RedHeartbeat
What about Synder Salvage in Holland, Texas, I've seen a few 6.0 in there good prices too.
I think this is what you were searching for.Quote:
Originally Posted by Red03SilSS
4.8 to 6.0
Ok so we he went out and bought an 99-01 LQ4. I have been talking to Greg about getting it to work with the 06 4L60E.
Is there any spacer or anything for the flexplate? Or can we order an 99-01 flex plate and make it work? Any Ideas would be helpfull. He gave me some, im just seeing if there are any more out there.
+1 on that. Kurt knows these guys, and I got a hella deal on my 6.0 & 4L80e, complete with all accessories and harness. Hell, I even got the factory airbox with a K&N already installed!! ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by RedHeartbeat
EDIT: I just replied too late on this one! Sorry Daniel.
Does it have the longer crank snout or is it the same length as the original engine? If it's the same, just move the flexplate over from the 4.8 to the 6.0. If the new engine has the longer crank snout you can't use it with the 60E, unfortunately.Quote:
Originally Posted by Red03SilSS
Here is what it looks like.
The old engine is still in the truck.
http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k5...VC-001S-12.jpg
Someone told me that there is a spacer/adapter thing on the end of the crank and it can be removed. You can see where there is a line there, will that seperate from the crank?
If there are threads all the way out to the end of the crankshaft then that is not a spacer.
there are no threads. inside and outside of it are both smooth
well, if the bolt holes are smooth for about a 1/2" deep then it may be a spacer. Only way to find out is break out the hammer and try knocking it off. I've heard there are a few that style, with the removable spacer. Billy at TRTTurbo told me of it and we tried removing a spacer on one he had but it wouldn't come off.
Hmmm hard to say. Does the motor have iron heads or aluminum? Looks longer than I remember mine being.
That doesn't look like a spacer to me....did you get a flexplate with the engine? What did it look like?Quote:
Originally Posted by Red03SilSS
OK I found another pic of a crank with a spacer attached. If you can pop that off you should be in good shape, otherwise it won't work.
http://i122.photobucket.com/albums/o...0pics/6-12.jpg
Its not a spacer. the line in the picture is just s mark. Its one solid piece.
I read on PT.net you can have the old crank shaved down by a machine shop. is this true?
also how much do I need them to shave off so it will make it work for a 60e.
And Thunder
It didn't come with a flywheel.
I've never heard of anyone shaving down a crank, but that doesn't mean it can't be done. Shaving it down will require pulling it from the engine. If you're going to pull the crank anyway, I personally would just look for a newer LQ4 crank with the shorter snout and swap it out. You're going to need new main bolts and main bearings either way.
http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k5...35/crank12.jpg
The yellow lines show where the flexplate will be mounted up against. The red circle shows what the flexplate goes around. The inner circle protrudes exactly 1/4 of an inch. Are yall sure this will hit the torque converter? It just doesnt look to be long enought to.
It's not that the center hub will hit the converter, it's that the whole flexplate will be spaced too far away from the engine. When you go to bolt up the trans you will not be able to seat the bellhousing all the way against the engine with that longer crank in there. Also the starter will not line up correctly.