I was just wondering if some of you guys can post pics of your cv angles because i think mine look pretty bad, so i want to see if there as bad as i think.
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I was just wondering if some of you guys can post pics of your cv angles because i think mine look pretty bad, so i want to see if there as bad as i think.
I don't have any pictures of mine at the moment, but I can post some up tomorrow. If your are talking about the truck in your sig, then I would say from the looks of them they look bad.
well that pic just makes them look way worse then they really are ill get some pic of mine from a front view.
If you could post up some better pictures someone will chime in with some help. Are they aftermarket keys or stock, are they maxed out?
there green keys. ill get some good pic in the morning tho.
http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z...d/DSCF0398.jpg
heres mine. not maxed. did you crank your green keys all the way??
From sig pic, yeah that angle looks pretty bad. Mine are less angle than smalltowns. Lifted or just keys cranked? If your upper control arm is resting on or damn near close to it on the arm stops, then you are cranked in too far.
its a 6 inch lift but the front end started to sag out so i had to get new keys and the green keys are about half way cranked to make it sit level.
Is it a 2500? You might need some new torsion bars, they might just be worn out?
Purposely have my front end sagged a little, rides a hell of alot smoother and it isn't so harsh on the balljoints.
Is it riding like ****? Have you drove it in 4 wheel drive on pavement and turned the wheels? As long as you aren't launching it in 4 wheel it should be fine.
my ford keys aren't even cranked all the way
the ride isnt bad and yes when i launch i use 4 wheel but i dont seem to have a problem and ive pull my friend diesel our more then once with these cv's.
i drop mine all the way down for 4x4 launches, but the diesel is a little harder on them. if its not bothering you and not binding then its ok, if it fails you will know then it was too steep. just my .02
I guess if you arn't replacing cv axles all the time or wearing out any other front end parts to quickly, then they arn't that bad. But I will say again that if your lift started to sag in the front, then your torsion bars prolly need to be replaced with new units. It's pretty common for those torsion bars to to get weak over time especially if they have been cranked for a while.
yea im prob going to buy new torsion bars and see what happens but the cv will still be at the same angle sooo
hey if it breaks ..... fix it. don't be like some people and cry a river about IFS. if ya don't wanna buy torsion bars throw a SFA under it and calll it done. then you would be my hero!!! :hail:
When you replace the t-bars you shouldn't need as much crancking on your keyways. All that stress and twist get put on those bars and then you get the sag, new fresh bars get rid of the sag and give you back the lost height. If I remember right there are different codes on them bars for different strengths. i'll look around and see what I find and post it back on here.
Here you go man a list of all the GM t-bars part numbers and max torques:
CHEVY TORSION BAR CODES AND RATINGS:
15048307-LH (code XK) (Max torque 4553)
15048308-RH (code XK) (Max torque 4553)
15048309-LH (code XL) (Max torque 4626)
15048310-RH (code XL) (Max torque 4626)
15712407-LH (code WX) (Max torque 4863)
15712408-RH (code WX) (Max torque 4863)
15048311-LH (code XM) (Max torque 5638)
15048312-RH (code XM) (Max torque 5638)
15058267-LH (code YH) (Max torque 5913)
15058268-RH (code YH) (Max torque 5913)
15712409-LH (code WY) (Max torque 5913)
15712410-RH (code WY) (Max torque 5913)
15528957-LH (code GG) (Max torque 6709)
15528958-RH (code GG) (Max torque 6709)
15712411-LH (code WZ) (Max torque 7267)
15712412-RH (code WZ) (Max torque 7267)
15528963-LH (code GK) (Max torque 8615)
15528964-RH (code GK) (Max torque 8615)
15528965-LH (code GL) (Max torque 8782)
15528966-RH (code GL) (Max torque 8782)
15732338-LH (code XG) (Max torque 9054)
15732339-RH (code XG) (Max torque 9054)
15528959-LH (code GH) (Max torque 7161)
15528960-RH (code GH) (Max torque 7161)
copywrite credit given to fullsizechevy...lol
Hey guys thanks alot. And im saving up to do a SAS in the future.
Yeah they had the most complete list I could find, I didn't want to offend anyone!Quote:
Originally Posted by small1town9kid
That would be sick if one of us did a SFA conversion. I want a 79 Dana 66 :luv:!!!
that would be sick. to be the first one on ls1truck!
OO baby i might be soon. Saving every paycheck. Sooon i figure it will cost me about 3000 bucks to do it.
It's Gunna Takemore Than 3k
eh i can get a axle for dirt cheap. Soo just parts i listed its going to about that.
Find an old broken 4wd ford, around 73-78. Find one of them for around $500.00 and you'll get a front axle with driver side drop and usually they are a dana 44 HD on the 250's. Will have 4:10's and then you can also swap the rear so you can a have a floating rear end incase you get a little crusty in the woods and snap a axle shaft. Then you pick up the SAS kit for around 1k, i would definately recommend the leaf spring conversion over the coils since the coils are gonna sag out. Plus you use leafs off the 80's era chevys and they are a dime a dozen. Well, these are my futur plans anyway. Not gonna be for a few years but, might as well try to find the donor truck in the mean time.
yea i have a friend with a dana 60 for 200 bucks but it needs a rebuild but thats no bigy. the thing that cost the most are the cross over steering
sway bar and leafs.