Its Started!

Went and got the motor today and started tearing it down, got the harness and intake off.
http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/b...r/DSC01310.jpg
http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/b...r/DSC01314.jpg
http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/b...r/DSC01319.jpg
http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/b...r/DSC01321.jpg
http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/b...r/DSC01325.jpg
http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/b...r/DSC01331.jpg
http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/b...r/DSC01334.jpg
http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/b...r/DSC01336.jpg

niceeee.. that is pretty filthy though

Nice, ok take the heads off an go get them re built, that is some nasty STUFF. Get a catch can too, i need to get one :deal:

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Originally Posted by ChevyLee

Nice, ok take the heads off an go get them re built, that is some nasty STUFF. Get a catch can too, i need to get one :deal:

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Yeah I know but I don't know if it's going to get that treatment or not this is kinda a budget minded project..:(

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Originally Posted by aarolar

Yeah I know but I don't know if it's going to get that treatment or not this is kinda a budget minded project..:(

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at least get them cleaned, i skipped this step an i kick my self in the face every morning when i get up. all you have to get is header gaskets, head bolts, and if you want new head gaskets. if you have to delay putting it in a week or two cuz u spent money cleaning it, then do it. I didn't do this an lost out on a lot of money b/c i didnt yank the heads off while it was out. i just had to take it off while it was in the truck which is not fun at all. I cant tell anyone enough to do this. Your heads look really bad, either get them cleaned or get of this site jk lol. get them cleaned though trust me.

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Originally Posted by ChevyLee

at least get them cleaned, i skipped this step an i kick my self in the face every morning when i get up. all you have to get is header gaskets, head bolts, and if you want new head gaskets. if you have to delay putting it in a week or two cuz u spent money cleaning it, then do it. I didn't do this an lost out on a lot of money b/c i didnt yank the heads off while it was out. i just had to take it off while it was in the truck which is not fun at all. I cant tell anyone enough to do this. Your heads look really bad, either get them cleaned or get of this site jk lol. get them cleaned though trust me.

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Is cleaning them something I can do myself or do I have to take it somewhere?

Edit: Would it be worth my time to try and port/polish the heads? The actual swap is not going to start till 2nd week in august so I have some time to play with...

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Originally Posted by aarolar

Is cleaning them something I can do myself or do I have to take it somewhere?

Edit: Would it be worth my time to try and port/polish the heads? The actual swap is not going to start till 2nd week in august so I have some time to play with...

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if you have the right tools. Were are you from? Getting them polished an ported will help with the flow, BUT If you plan on doing some upgrades later on down the road, you might wanna get better flowing heads. If your on a budge, just go drop them off at the machine shop, an let them clean them an make sure they are ok.

So cleaning them is not something I can do myself? I don't plan on going too wild with this motor definately not going to swap heads..

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Originally Posted by aarolar

So cleaning them is not something I can do myself? I don't plan on going too wild with this motor definately not going to swap heads..

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then get them polished an ported now, its worth it. have you ever cleaned heads before? here are some pics of what im talkn about

befores:
http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i1...ldmotor019.jpg

http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i1...ldmotor013.jpg
(notice mine is not as bad as yours in the ports but its terrable on the inside, imagine what yours looks like.
afters:
http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i1...edmotor001.jpg
http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i1...edmotor002.jpg
http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i1...edmotor004.jpg

I had it professionally cleaned up.

Never cleaned or ported heads off a v8 but I have ported several briggs heads and have a kit. So should I or not? And how much moneys am I looking at to have it done professionally?

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Originally Posted by aarolar

Never cleaned or ported heads off a v8 but I have ported several briggs heads and have a kit. So should I or not? And how much moneys am I looking at to have it done professionally?

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If your comfortable doing it, go for it. I had that head cleaned at a nice price do to a friend did it. but other shops charge 110 bux a head.

btw where are you from??

Quote:

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Originally Posted by aarolar

Never cleaned or ported heads off a v8 but I have ported several briggs heads and have a kit. So should I or not? And how much moneys am I looking at to have it done professionally?

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Yes port them you can do it. Also Chevylee is right clean em up. It cant hurt.
My old 5.3 looked like that and it ran great but you never know. Its better safe than sorry and not real expensive. Slam yourself a Z06 cam in there while your at it you will be glad you did.

How easy is it to mess something up porting one of these thing? What should I be careful of and such? Do I have to take the valves out or can I do it with them out, I think I already know the answer but....

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Originally Posted by aarolar

How easy is it to mess something up porting one of these thing? What should I be careful of and such?

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dont take out any edges, make sure u blow out every shaving left overs lol, umm idk what else, never have done it.

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Originally Posted by zeake

Slam yourself a Z06 cam in there while your at it you will be glad you did.

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Know where to find one on the cheap?

Ebay, LS1truck.com , ls1tech.com and similar websites.

eBay Motors: 2002 LS6 ZO6 CAM (fresh copy) (item 180260813463 end time Jul-07-08 20:00:41 PDT)

NO NO NO No regrinds. If it were me I'd buy a new gm performance parts cam with springs etc.

All that you can possibly afford to do to the motor while it is out is the best way to do it.

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Originally Posted by zeake

All that you can possibly afford to do to the motor while it is out is the best way to do it.

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I realize this and am trying my hardest...

Well it depends on the history of the vehicle that you are sure of as to whether you should take the heads off and "tear it down" being that it is a budget rebuild, in my opinion. ChevyLee got burned by buying from someone across the country where the engine could have been sitting in a garage on a pallet for 6 months prior, it's hard to tell. My roomate blew up a 4.8 and got a 6.0 local, we bolted it in without cleaning it at all and it would melt tires like nobody's business. You just have to check the engine out before you buy it. I pulled from a local junkyard and popped the valve cover off when it was still in the suburban and saw no gunk on the valvetrain whatsoever, and full of clean oil on the dipstick. I cleaned off the top of the heads below the intake, and got new waterpump and intake manifold gaskets(they were both shot past reinstallation when i took it off) All in all, invested $55.00 in gaskets and simplegreen and carb cleaner. If you wait till later to cam it, you will save some fluids but most if not all gaskets are reusable. Get it running already!!! Haven't taken heads to a shop lately, but it ran like $150 for a valve job on some gen II sbc stuff. Id say around $200 to "clean up" heads, probably less. Did you purchase the engine under the guise of it needed some internal engine cleaning to run? If you bought it ready to run then bolt it up and go.

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Originally Posted by zeake

All that you can possibly afford to do to the motor while it is out is the best way to do it.

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+1 If you can only afford to get it running then don't delay, time is running out!

Where did you source your motor if you don't mind me asking?http://www.ls1truck.com/upload/files/31/34intruck.jpg

Pulled the heads and took some more pics, Ill post them as soon as photobucket gets done loading. Where is the best place to buy new headgaskets and headbolts?

http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/b...r/DSC01345.jpg
http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/b...r/DSC01376.jpg
http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/b...r/DSC01378.jpg
http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/b...r/DSC01390.jpg

And heres the kicker pic, the crank bolt looks as though it has been removed before... Maby its already cammed?
http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/b...r/DSC01450.jpg

Doesn't look too bad. Crank bolts are a one time use only. You need a new one no matter. Shouldn't be more tha 6 bucks at the stealership.

I have been meaning to ask why are crank bolts and headbolts one time use? Not arguing with you but just wondering?

I think they are trq to yield bolts.

If you can budget get arp bolts for both.

Torque to yeild means that they are designed to stretch a specific amount to hold the proper torque value. When you first torque them to their specified value in the manual you then add say another 135 degrees of rotation to acheive the designed amount of bolt stretch/torque to the fastener. Once they have been stretched and then loosened you cannot use them again accurately. They have even been know to break if you attempt to tighten them a second time to the specified values. The part of the bolt that stretches is the smallest area around the root of the threads. When the bolt breaks its usually right flush to the block and they're bitch to remove afterwards.

Gotcha it makes sense just always heard not to but never why.

On the topic of this thread, anyone got any ideas on what would have made my heads so dirty? The intake and throttle body was just as nasty up to the butterfly.

That is the oil vapors from engine blowby being sucked into the intake manifold. A nasty mess always. Another reason I like to vent the blowby to the atmosphere rather than the engine. I prefer doing that even though sucking a vacuum on the engine block helps to seat the rings better. Drag cars will often put a large fitting on the valve covers and run a hose from there to the exhaust collector to scavenge more vacuum inside the block for more power. :rock: Too bad catalytic converters don't like oil. :whack:

So when I get it all cleaned and ported and shiney and I put it all put back together and run the engine your telling me its just going to go back to the same way it is now?:smash:

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Originally Posted by RedHeartbeat

Torque to yeild means that they are designed to stretch a specific amount to hold the proper torque value. When you first torque them to their specified value in the manual you then add say another 135 degrees of rotation to acheive the designed amount of bolt stretch/torque to the fastener. Once they have been stretched and then loosened you cannot use them again accurately. They have even been know to break if you attempt to tighten them a second time to the specified values. The part of the bolt that stretches is the smallest area around the root of the threads. When the bolt breaks its usually right flush to the block and they're bitch to remove afterwards.

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Red is a genious. I remembered reading all that before but could not put it into words.