Printable View
I have a 6L with about 157K on it and recently started to puff smoke out the exhaust every once in a while. It usually does it after it idles for a while. Oil pressure is 60 cold and 40 warm. Have gutted cats but didn't do it after I gutted them. Just wondering if the motor is crappen out on me or is just something else. Thanks guys.
What color is the smoke?
if its blue smoke, its most likely burning oil, if its a white smoke, its condensation or gas. if its the white check your Fuel pressure regulator.
It's blue and smells like burnt oil but checked oil and it isn't using any. Didn't know if it egr or pcv valve would cause it but it does have 157K what can I expect.
Sounds like valve seals... do a cam swap and change the seals and gaskets while your at it. :thumb:
Also doesn't do it at start up just when the motor warms up.
Did you put diesel fuel in? LOL jk. sounds like you floated a bearing or something and its just barely burning any oil..
I know when i worked at Firestone, they offered a fuel system tune that would basically clean from the TB down into the upper intake and also poured some cleaner into the gas tank. It would use air pressure into a closed container to spray a "fog" into the TB and clean it out. I have found when you ride it hard and put it up wet, it also seems to stay more clean in the TB as well :D
Pulled my trailer the other weekend and noticed after got to the campsite it smoked a little more but it's not constant just notice if I go from reverse to drive. Don't notice it while driving and looking out the mirror, just if the truck stops. If I have a floating bearing is there anything I can do to fix it or is not gunna hurt anything.
You might take it to a garage and have them check the injectors to see if they need a professional cleaning. Thats a lot of miles on stock injectors and fuel pressure regulator. The regulator could be leaking some. Has you fuel mileage changed recently?
Mileage hasn't dropped any, getting almost 14 on the highway. Just thought that since it doesn't do it all the time that it might be something simple. I have a new fuel pump on it, run fuel injector cleaner thru it every oil change, and get gas at a shell station in town. I think there is a gremblin in the motor.
Naw, not a gremlin--just a little puff of smoke is nothing to worry about really... It might be that your intake is hella dirty. You know that your valve coveres breathe oil vapors into the intake, right? And that the EGR dumps uncirculated exhaust fumes back into the intake as well??? Just for grins, take the take tube off, open the butterfly on the TB, and swab the inside of the intake with a pipe cleaner or with a screw driver with a small rag on it. I can guarantee you that it will be black as soot when you pull it out. A deep intake cleaning session may be on the books for you... The LS motors are known to have a good amount of carbon build up on the topside of the valves (due to the EGR and valve cover breathers). A good valve cleaning wouldn't hurt either...
Im Gonna Go With Valve Seals On This One...usually Will Do The Once They Get Worn Out....does It Smoke Under Wot...if So Then I Will Definately Go With The Seals
Quote:
Originally Posted by ff_jeff
I think so as well. No big deal. Just a reason to swap out the cam for a better one. Get some comp springs, and buy some seals, locks, retainers, and guides just to be safe.Quote:
Originally Posted by mean05
Thanks guys for all the info. Pulled my camper again over the fourth and again puffed smoke but not as bad, but after I unhooked and started it back up she didn't want to idle. Idles at about 3 to 4 hundred rpm and was rough. Gave it some gas and moved it and the idle went back to normal. How big of a job is it to change out the seals?
Changing valve seals is quite easy--pull off plug wires from coil packs and take off coil pack bracket; unbolt the 4 (8mm) bolts that hold down the valve cover; Unbolt rocker bolts (8mm); remove rockers and rocker cradle; remove pushrods; use an LS1 style valve spring compression tool to compress and remove valve stem locks; remove valve; remove valve stem. Replace in reverse order. Make sure to retorque rockers down to 22 ft.lb. Once you have tightened them down, hand turn the crank about 10 times. Retorque rockers to 22 ft.lb. again. The job is very easy, but takes a long time to compress each spring. I'd say about an hour per side...
How would you remove the valve with the head still on?Quote:
Originally Posted by txarkitekt
Trust me jeff.. He knows.Quote:
Originally Posted by ff_jeff
JACKASS--he is talking about changing the VALVE SEALS. NOT THE VALVE...douche nozzle. It would GREATLY benefit you to read the ENTIRE post before saying something stupid.Quote:
Originally Posted by ff_jeff
Love ya Jeff! :melissa:
And David....wait, nevermind. I am not going to even waste my time on you... It's too easy...
Do the ChevyLee fuel pressure regulator check. Disconnect the vacuum line running to the FPR from the intake manifold and insert the vacuum line into a clear bottle then start the truck. Let it idle for about 5 minutes and see if you get any fuel in the catch bottle. If yes, replace the FPR.
I'll try the FPR check and see. Also just thought of this about a year ago I had three manifold bolts broke so I put on shorty headers. The mechanic put a different oil dipstick tube on. Noticed after I got it back the oil level was low so I topped it off. Could I have too much oil in the crankcase and it be burning the excess.
Its a possiblity. Check the easy things first...plugs, FPR, intake cleaning, oil level. If those aren't the gremlin, do the valve seals.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ff_jeff
Quote:
Originally Posted by txarkitekt
Not stupid, you just said to remove the valve, and i wanted to know how you would do that with the head bolted down is all!!! :ugh2:Quote:
Originally Posted by txarkitekt
Oh. Ok. You're right--my mistake. I typed that on accident.
Dude, you know that I didn't mean for him to remove the valve. Why would you remove a valve if you were only gunna replace the valve seal?
In conjunction with that, make sure to either charge the cylinder with air or turn the piston below the valves you are working on to TDC...if not, say bye-bye to the valve--and you will have to remove the head to put it back in...
Did the FPR check and no gas in the jar so it still working. Stuck a rag in the tb and brought out a mix of soot and oil but wasn't as dirty as I thought it was going to be. Might have to take the plunge and take it off and clean it to be safe. Would a compression check tell how much blow by I was getting?
Yes, somewhat. Do a leak-down test to see the pressure loss for each cylinder. That will tell you where your problem is...