Why is my truck slowly going back to stock?

This time one year ago I was running an STS rear mount turbo kit on my 2006 Silverado 1500 with a 4.8L engine...I was only running about 5 pounds of boost so it was nothing special, but it was so fun. After about 2 months the turbo was holding up fine until one day i was driving, got on it hard, then the engine just died while moving; got out, checked the oil, and it barely registered on the dipstick...somehow a fitting on the oil supply system for the turbo leaked all of my oil out slowly and I never caught it. The engine was seized, I got it fixed for about 3 grand, and sold my turbo to help get my truck running again. Now I'm basically driving around a stock 4.8L silverado with no balls. I'm afraid to do anything crazy because the dealership fixed the engine using the "cost effective" meathod so needless to say the engine makes a slight knock still...What do you guys think I should do for performance? Scrap the 4.8 and go with a 6.0 or something...or should I just go through the 4.8 with a fine tooth comb?

Do a 6.0L LQ4 engine as a start and then boost it later.

How much does a typical 6.0 engine swap run?

whatever your donor engine costs - sale of 4.8 + tune cost

Is it better get a crate 6.0 or just look around my area for one? I've got a friend that put a 6.0 in his silverado and said it was pretty easy...said it basically fell in place and plugged right in...I think he said it needed a new flexplate. Sorry I'm asking dumb questions...I guess I'm learning on my feet. I was in a wreck last night at my towns cruise night so I should really be focusing on body work versus doing an engine swap. Lol! Some crazy lady flipped a u-turn right in front of me...clipped my passenger door and rear quarter pannel pretty good...

Dude, fix the body first. See if the insurance company is going to try to total it first. If so, it may be best to let them do that and gain some $$$$ out of the settlement before doing a swap.

Well, it's definitely not gonna be totaled out, but it definetely needs some work. It blew out the sidewall of my tire but I don't think it hurt the wheel. Maybe I'll get lucky and it won't ballance and I can get a new one...I've got another question...I've got the tune still on my truck from when I had my turbo on...I also still have the larger injectors that came with the kit on...is it safe to run 89 octane in my truck with the tune still on or should I take it off? I've been putting 91 in it but it's 20 cents higher a gallon...

eBay Motors: LQ9, LS1, LS2 GEN III 6.0L SHORT BLOCK (item 150257008558 end time Jun-15-08 21:35:37 PDT) here is a LQ4. it says its a LQ9 but its not. Look on ebay. a short block is easy to find cheap. then buy some nice heads and intake.

The tune has to be awful running N/A. Get it retuned with the injectors taken into consideration. Do it once you get the new engine in and be done with it. Do you have a nelson tune?

If you get a 6.0 find the cheapest one you can get your hands on, then rebuild it your self. TRUST ME

The tune has to be awful running N/A. Get it retuned with the injectors taken into consideration. Do it once you get the new engine in and be done with it. Do you have a nelson tune?
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No...I know a guy who had hp tuning software on his laptop...it came with an o2 sensor that he put in pre-cat and we made a few passes while he tuned it...he did a good job right after it was done but i'm not sure how well it's working with the application i've got now...

"If you get a 6.0 find the cheapest one you can get your hands on, then rebuild it your self. TRUST ME"

Do you suggest I just find a block, then heads, then an intake, etc.? I've never built an engine...I've been limited to just adding bolt-ons I guess. The hardest thing i've done is putting a STS turbo kit on my truck, which was actually pretty easy...

If you build it... they will come. Do it your self and buld it like you want. IF your gunno go Turbo... build a turbo motor. Take the time to heat/cryo treat stuff before final install as well. consider thermal coatings. ect.

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Originally Posted by ff_jeff

If you build it... they will come. Do it your self and buld it like you want. IF your gunno go Turbo... build a turbo motor. Take the time to heat/cryo treat stuff before final install as well. consider thermal coatings. ect.

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I really think I wanna go all motor this time...Don't get me wrong, I loved having that turbo, but it's so much sweeter when you can strap it on someone all motor. I'm just gonna have to do my research on this site and start saving money...what do you think a 4.8L with 40,000 miles would bring if I tried to sell it?

Pay a professional to do it right the first time if you're unfamiliar with building engines. :twocents:

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Originally Posted by RedHeartbeat

Pay a professional to do it right the first time if you're unfamiliar with building engines. :twocents:

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Yeah...I probably should. My friend did it to his though...He's not exactly the sharpest and he did it. I'm sure he could help out. I don't know though...He's real shady so it may not even really be a 6.0; I saw the 6.0 sticker on his air box but he could have pulled it off of one. How else can you tell if it's a 6.0 just by doing a visual inspection?

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Originally Posted by turboshanks

I really think I wanna go all motor this time...Don't get me wrong, I loved having that turbo, but it's so much sweeter when you can strap it on someone all motor. I'm just gonna have to do my research on this site and start saving money...what do you think a 4.8L with 40,000 miles would bring if I tried to sell it?

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Id say $500-$1500 for the 4.8. And I aggree On getting a pro to do the build. Just know what your goals are. And let him do all the work. as for telling if its a 6.0... you would have to get the number off the heads, and/or block.

On the flywheel end of the engine block is cast 6.0 if its a 6 liter. If it has 4.8/5.3 on it you have to roll a piston to the bottom of the bore and then measure how deep it is. If its about 3-5/8" then its a 5.3L, less means its a 4.8L

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Originally Posted by ff_jeff

Id say $500-$1500 for the 4.8. And I aggree On getting a pro to do the build. Just know what your goals are. And let him do all the work. as for telling if its a 6.0... you would have to get the number off the heads, and/or block.

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He's got patriot heads and I'd be a little obvious looking for the numbers on the block...It runs like a striped ape...I know that. He's getting the trany rebuilt b/c his 3rd gear went out. He put a stock trany back on it and has it tuned way down until he gets his other trany fixed. He really recomends a nelson tune. Don't they just send you a PCM and you return your stock one back to them?

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Originally Posted by RedHeartbeat

On the flywheel end of the engine block is cast 6.0 if its a 6 liter. If it has 4.8/5.3 on it you have to roll a piston to the bottom of the bore and then measure how deep it is. If its about 3-5/8" then its a 5.3L, less means its a 4.8L

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Would I be able to see that from underneath? We've kind of have a little competition going for a while so I'm just curious...He's good about sneaking little things in hear and there and b s-ing me. I'd say he's way ahead now since I siezed my motor when I had that STS kit on...

nope, can't tell unless the transmission has been removed. Volunteer to help swap the trans and you'll be up under there to check it out and see if you can see the casting number.

Red, you are slick!

The casting will be on the passenger side of the backside of the block :rock:

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Originally Posted by turboshanks

He's got patriot heads and I'd be a little obvious looking for the numbers on the block...It runs like a striped ape...I know that. He's getting the trany rebuilt b/c his 3rd gear went out. He put a stock trany back on it and has it tuned way down until he gets his other trany fixed. He really recomends a nelson tune. Don't they just send you a PCM and you return your stock one back to them?

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Yes they send you a mail order if you want.

Hey shanks, Dont you live in the same area as i do???? if so i can help ya with the swap :thumb:

Dude--just buy a 6.0L from somewhere. Internet, local junk yard, Craigslist...whatever. You could even buy a longblock with 317 casting heads. The exhaust manifolds, intake manifold, coil packs, accessories, etc..pretty much the upper end of the motor (sans the heads) of the 4.8L can be used on the 6.0L. Once you buy a 6.0L, MAKE SURE you tear that motor down and do a visual inspection of everything...like remove, clean, and inspect the intake, heads, etc. Go through it with a fine comb and a bunch of Brake Clean. Install new head gaskets when reinstalling the heads.

Modifying a motor is 10X easier when the motor is sitting on a crate on the garage floor versus being in the truck. If you wanna go all-motor, you should consider putting in a cam, valve springs, pushrods, 243 heads, pulleys, etc. before it goes in. Yes, a V8-to-V8 motor swap is pretty much a direct swap concerning the electrical hook ups, vacuum lines, TB, etc. If you installed a STS kit, you can swap a 4.8L to a 6.0L...

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Originally Posted by lamborado

Hey shanks, Dont you live in the same area as i do???? if so i can help ya with the swap :thumb:

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Yeah...I saw you at Eufaula's cruise night on Saturday...I got in a wreck that night! Sux! Hell yeah...I'll take all the help I can get. I'm keeping an eye out for a 6.0L. Know where any are?

69 auto salvage had one not to long back might wanna try callin them.

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Originally Posted by lamborado

69 auto salvage had one not to long back might wanna try callin them.

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Yeah...A friend of mine said he called to check and nothing turned up...Guess I'll just have to keep searching. I'd be happy with a longblock for a start...

Yeah, if you can't find a complete motor, go ahead and find a good long block then buy some 317 heads--or if you want some better performance, get a set of 243 heads! :thumb: Everything else from the 4.8L will swap over.

Tell the guy you're going n/a and slip a 150 wet shot in there. :)