hey guys tranny ?

well ive been dormant for alittle wile because the truck has had another blown tranny and i just havent been able to get to it .so anyway i just got the tranny in tonight .i went basically a level 5 60.with advice and all my parts from chuck and vince at finishline tranny i built 1.heres the deal ,i am getting a flare up [lol] between gears.1-2 seems to be ok ,but after that it flares between gears,like revs.im not sure what it could be because i used everything top of the line and dont know what else it could be ,so im looking for suggestions.thanks ahead guys.

oh my god ,nothing.lol

bump

You know a 60e isn't made to push snow, especially with a huffer. Put an 80e in there!

well im having to do with what i have to right now.unfortunately.i bought all high quality **** and i think this is something small ,other than that the tranny is solid.its really only flaring between 2-3 ,its holding fine etc,but that 2-3 is flaring.i will be doing a 80 next time for sure i just didnt have time to deal with it,and im not lettng anyone around here do the conversion thats for sure.

When you say "flaring," are you talking about the RPMs pushing up between the shifts? Or does it feel like the line pressures are not up enough to where the bands aren't grabbing the way they are suppose to? What type of fluid did you put in there?

i used synthetic redline fluid.and yes the rpms are lifting between gears.its holding fine in every gear,but revving between 2-3.i hate trannies.thats y i let it sit for 3 weeks.

it is only doing it between 2-3

Well, depending upo which internal parts you used, the basic Dextron III fluid is all you need--because the synthetic fluid is too slippery and it won't allow the bands to grab the drums the right way. Did you use any orifice plugs? What about the forward accumulator (the peanut looking thing on the end of the valve body)? Did you put new springs and new aluminum piston in there? What type of bands did you use--stock or Kevlar?

ok .so ill tell ya what i know is in it.kevlar band,5 pinion planets front and back,chuck rebuilt the valve body at flt,all i know about that is he redid the hd2 transgo kit in it etc and took some washers out so it didnt hit so hard in 2nd,then gave me a new redrilled plate with an .85 hole instead of a .110 whole because it was hitting real hard a breaking **** left and right ,so he said it was best too calm down the 1-2. vette servo ,and superhold 2-4 billet servo.beast sunshell,65e front shaft and drum,resurfaced rear drum.billet output shaft,aa box of little clutch springs.lol.theyre rebuild kit.thats all i can remember at this second.oh i did send flt the accum piston along with my valve body to do any ness things.so do you think the synthetic is hurting things.i always though it was best too use for 12bucks a quart times 10..

Yeah, the HD2 says to use those shims in the 2nd accumulator--but don't use them. Waaaaaaay too hard of shifts. Also, turn down the line pressures.

All of the parts look to be awesome. I personally wouldn't have done the synthetic fluid. The synthetic is so slippery. Should have gone with the basic tranny fluid. :twocents:

so aah any idea about the PROBLEM tex.

put a transgo 46mod vacuum shift modulator in the valve body, get rid of the POS electronic EPC. Oh yeah, you'll need the bypass for boost pressure that they sell for FI applications.

hey red ,were the heck do you install the modulator on our trannies?doesnt seem to be a spot .of course externally .thats were most vac mods ive ever seen.funny tho i had a tranniy guy tell me i might be able too adjust the epc on mine ,i guess some of them have a setscrew.just hearsay tho.

its internal, the device is black and about 1.5" diameter, slides into the valve body. Programmable, not adjustable. The vacuum one requires you drill and tap the case for a 1/8 NPT fitting to bring vacuum into the transmission. A very easy modification. You remove the electronic one, leave it connected and set it to the side, and install the vacuum unit.

thats exactly what i was asking.if you had to tap ,i was wondering how it went.i know about the epc inside ive had too replace b4.sounds like a good idea tho red ,as usual.

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Originally Posted by Ramsey

so aah any idea about the PROBLEM tex.

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Yes, the problem is to change fluid back to normal and turn down the line pressures using the EPC. It is as Greg says...but you need to drain the tranny (already doing so when switching fluid types) and remove the pan and filter to get to it. It DOES have a slot head set screw. Turn it about 1/4 turn to the left... I am not saying 100% that the fluid is causing the problem--or that its the shifting thats to too rough--but they could be...

the shifting is not too rough for sure.i actually think i need more line pressure.because its not completing the shift quick enough.

Just chiming in... The point of the 46-MOD is to eliminate the potential for the EPC not to build pressure needed to shift properly. The PCM depends on the trans fluid pressure for a number of things. I'm having a similar issue with "rev'n" b/t gears, except mine only happen at 80mph during downshifts. I went from the 46-MOD to a new trans case on my last rebuild. The pressure seemed to high (trans shifted hard as hell) with the 46-MOD & NO WASHERS in the accumulator (on the previous trans build). I decided to switch back to the EPC for an experiment (on my last build), and looks like I'll be working to analyze what's best medium (pressure wise using the modifier table) for resolving my trans pressure issue.

As for the comments on pressure to apply the 2-3 shft (don't remember who made that comment), but to my knowledge, band apply is on engagement of 2nd & 4th. The band is released on 3rd gear. So, there should be no band related issue on the 2-3 shift. The only thing I could see (related to the band) would be the servo seals allowing leak-by, which wouldn't build enough pressure to slide back to allow the server pin to move and release the band. Maybe I'm not understanding what was being suggested. :confused: If that's the case, please feel free to correct me, as I claim not to be the pro... just one who's done enough builds to gain a "minute" amount of first-hand experience. :LOL:

BTW... txart, I agree on the use of REGULAR fluid. A couple of well-known builders in the trans performance world have recommended not using synthetic. I buy the cheap stuff. Have 2000 hard-drivin' miles on my last rebuild, and I decided to do it RIGHT this time (no cheap part shortcuts).

thanks for the advice c10.i guess itll be process of elimination ,some more of the fn money game.im pissed ive got a half a fortune in it this time and i really had high hopes for a perfect functioning tranny.damn i even splurged on that synthetic for like 120 bucks.is theyre ever a answer,seems like the problems keep coming,no matter what you do ya still shopulda done something else ,wth.alrighy then were should i start ,46 mod ,change fluid,or epc pressure cranking it up .or what about the frigging servo leaking or not fuunctioning properly.?thanks guys i appreciate it im just really annoyed at my little angel.lol

The 46-MOD doesn't require the trans to be pulled, but would be easier to do. Is it a necessary mod? That's debatable. Change the fluid for sure. A "pan-drop" would get the bulk of it out, but not all (I'd think that's ok, but others may not agree). If you do a pan-drop only, let the vehicle sit overnight for as much of a drip-down as possible. Also look into an air compressor to blow out as much of the fluid out of the lines & cooler. Get new filter and gasket kit, and run with it.

The servo's easy to check. Pry the retainer ring out with flathead screwdriver. Don't go jammin' and yankin' around, just take your time, and it'll pop off rather easily. The same goes for the servos. You'll want to be careful about placement of your tool of choice (big or small driver). Don't use a sharp-edged driver. If the driver slips, you could cut or damage a descent seal. Once removed, check the seals & bore to ensure no damage. If you see something that doesn't look right, take a pic and post it. If the seals look good, reinstall and run with it.

As for pressure...

#1 - Is this an OEM (stock) PCM? If so, leave alone. If not, see #2.
#2 - Has any of the trans tables been modified? If so, how much? See #3 & #4.
#3 - If you've done your own tuning, let's see the tune (or tables).
#4 - If someone else has done your tuning, advise them of your issue after confirming the simple trans troubleshooting seemed ok.


Now, to really troubleshoot your trans, it'd be best to see how you built it. Obviously, that's a good bit of work for those who don't normally do that sort of thing constantly (like me), but more sets of eyes are better than one (believe me). Now, that I think about it.... how much fluid did you put in the trans? Do you have a shallow, OEM deep, or aftermarket deep pan? Obviously, fluid level is important, and capacity differs with each type.

C10, when I was talking about the bands and whatnot, I was implying them slipping when being released for the 3rd gear shift change...but yes, you are right in the mechanical operation.

Ramsey, you can go ahead and do the 46-MOD only if you want to. To drain almmost all fluids out, you definitely need to drop the pan and valve body, second accumulator, etc. The converter holds quite a bit of fluid...I'd say somewhere in the neighborhood of 3-4 quarts. To completely get all fluids out, you need to take the tranny and converter off. I know its a painstaking process...

so you reallly think the fluid could be a contributing facto ,ha.boy something new everyday.lol.i guess tomm thatlll be my project.and go from theyre.

Yes, it very well could be. Since it is brand new and all, drive it for a bit and put some miles on it. See if the problem goes away once all of the internal parts "find their set." Let us know how things turn out.

I bought an aftermarket deep pan for ~2 qts addition to storage. Drain plugs are the best. Just make sure you put additional gasket sealer on the plug. Have yet to have a drop fall on the concrete since.

TX (or anyone else)... is there any issue with blending small amounts of fluid? Reason I'm asking is b/c I know how much of a pain it'd be to r&r a trans, and maybe a 2 - 4 quart fluid capacity within the converter (depending on size of TC) would be marginal compared to the amount being installed in the trans. Thinking he could blend, run, drain, blend again, run, drain, and fill again, run to see if there's an improvement. LOL

Yeah, I thought about the fact that he could drain -- fill, drain -- fill, etc like you said until he gets it right, but that is a pain in the ass. It might just be easier to do it all at once versus effing with it several times...

unless you have a pan with a drain plug.... easy! lol

Well Ramsey better get it fixed quick because LVD is open on wednesday nights now.

Found that my problem was pressure related. Changed the modifier on the 4-3 downshift tables, and the "slippage" b/t the downshifting has nearly ceased. Have to look at a few other things before testing once again.

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Originally Posted by FLATOP08

Well Ramsey better get it fixed quick because LVD is open on wednesday nights now.

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ya i know i cant wait too take it theyre and blow it the hell up.im pissed i just got it going again and im having all kinds of **** go wrong.i will be going to the track tho .do u plan on going down ?if so let me know sometime ill meet you therye.