LS6 progress

I thought I would show some pics of the LS6 project...

Here is the engine with the 305 brackets, the only thing that sucks is the belt will go above the throttle body.

http://www.ls1truck.com/upload/files...s/100_0368.JPG




These are the brackets I fabbed...

http://www.ls1truck.com/upload/files...s/100_0367.JPG

Just kidding I will take these to the machine shop to have brackets made:LOL:





I took the 305 motor mounts to the machine shop and he put them in a big press and it smoothed out the triangle hump for free!

http://www.ls1truck.com/upload/files...s/100_0364.JPG

Well thats it for now I'll have more when I get to work tomorrow.

Looks good, can't wait to see it finished. Keep the pics coming.

Engine bay
http://www.ls1truck.com/upload/files/154/100_0362.JPG


Truck
http://www.ls1truck.com/upload/files...s/100_0363.JPG


Engine
http://www.ls1truck.com/upload/files...s/100_0361.JPG

How do I put the thumbnail in with it having a link to the big pic?:doofus:

It would be nicer than the big pics taking so long to load.

thanks

Hey,

Looks like everything is coming along great. What was wrong with your first brackets they looked very professional. Especially the birthplace of aviation piece...lol j/k but hey whats this swap going into? Im doing a ls6 swap into my 2004 truck but im using all the truck accesories instead of the ls6 accesories. Keep us updated with more pics!!

Thanks Brandon

It's lookin good. Good luck with it man.

1997 GMC reg cad step side

I have read alot about the 305 vortec fuel pump and was wanting to know if it will be able to support the LS6?

What injector size do you guys recommend?


Thanks

I love how it looks stock.....with my buddy on the battery....couldn't have done it without him:melissa:

http://www.ls1truck.com/upload/files...s/100_0378.JPG


Another engine pic...

http://www.ls1truck.com/upload/files...s/100_0373.JPG


Two pics of the shifter...I need new carpet bad:(

http://www.ls1truck.com/upload/files...s/100_0376.JPG

http://www.ls1truck.com/upload/files...s/100_0377.JPG


What cold air setup do you guys recommend?

I thought about coming straight out but I didn't know if the efans would mess up the air flow going to the filter.

Do you think your alternator belt has enough surface area on its pulley? I don't think it does & will be slipping excessively. :nono:

I am worried about that but I was just going to try it and see what happens.

I'm sure there will be a lot of bugs to work out:ugh2:

whats up man. i replyed to your email and made a new thread with my swap to help others. yours looks good, i like how your useing a T56 tranny. it should be fun when your done. keep the pics coming.

thanks taqwache

Its been a fun project, I just got my harness and pcm.

Just trying to figure out what wires I need to splice into for my tach and speedo.

Does anybody know if I unplug the black box and put 12volts to each pin and see if the needles move on the tach and speedo to figure out what wire goes to each?

thanks

IT'S ALIVE!!!!!!!!!!!!

Got the wiring hooked up and it fire right up.

Fuel pressure was at 66. The only thing is the pressure bleeds off to 0 when I turn it off.

The 305 did this too, because it would take a long time to crank before it would start.

There must be a check valve in the tank thats bad.

Oh well I'll change that whenever I change the pump.

Later

I just thought of something.

My EVAP canister is not capped, would the pressure bleed through that?

Everything looks awesome.
I hope the serpentine system works, if not, you can add a pulley to get additional surface area on the alternator.
Shifter looks good as well. Is that a keisler shifter?

If so I have the same set up in a 92 fullsize.

Enjoy, they are a blast to drive.

Yes it's a keisler.

It didn't slip at idle so if it does slip at high rpm's at least it will be OK when I let out of it.

Great project! The EVAP canister should not affect the fuel pressure reading. Usually the anti-drainback check valve in the pump is inop. causing the pressure to bleed down quickly. If you are running a regulator you also may want to try restricting the return and see if the pressure holds. That will tell you if the regulator is bad. If you change pumps, try using a Walbro 255lph. If the belt makes noise, try increasing the wrap on the alternator by installing an idler pulley below it. It looks like you have plenty wrap, usually anything more than a quarter wrap of the pulley is o.k., but it just depends on how tight/stiff your alternator is. Looks great, keep up the good work!

thanks guys

It was a huge relief when it started, all the hard work paid off.

My flanges will be here tomorrow so I'll take it to the muffler shop to get the 40 series(2 2.5in in & 2 2.5in out), should sound good.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by 94Firehawk161

If you are running a regulator you also may want to try restricting the return and see if the pressure holds. That will tell you if the regulator is bad. If you change pumps, try using a Walbro 255lph.

---

Yes, Its the return style rails off of a 98 vette. Got the rail and injectors off ebay for $180 shipped(great deal).

The truck doesnt have the ass it should and it was throwing the crank re-learn code.

So I took it to the dealer and had the re-learn done....He said its running too lean and the knock sensors are probably pulling time.

The valve in the tank is bad, so I always have too cycle the pump three times before starting it.

Should I get a walbro255(if so what Part #) or get a gm replacement for my truck?


I have a 1997 GMC reg cab step side

you could just do a electric pump setup on the frame rail .with reg,and check valve.i did.saves from having to change the intanks .easy access and adjust f/p whatever you want.my 2 cents.warlboro ,everyone loves them for the majority but i went through 3 in a year,maybe just bad luck.good luck ,and congrats.

Now I'm worried I hurt something.

I hit WOT a few time with it running lean.

Would the knock sensor pull enough timing so I didn't hurt anything?

I haven't heard any pinging, missing or backfire, so I hope it OK.

I have a buddy who is running the stock Vortec 305/350 pump assembly on a Ramjet 502 with a 200 wetshot of nitrous for a total of 700hp. The stock pump should be fine fueling your 405 hp. the paperwork that was supplied by GM Performance Parts actuallyy calls for the OEM pump to fuel the 510hp Ramjet 502 crate engine.

there is no DIRECT Walbro pump for the Vortecs. You will just need to splice a couple of wires to use the Walbro pumps.


Dont worry, I highly doubt you hurt anything seeing as you are NA.

RU running the stock LS6 injectors? If you are NOT, then you will need to get the PCM tuned to the correct Injector Flow Rate (IFR) which will depend on the fuel pressure you are running (66psi?)

In case you want to use a Wlbro, here is an install into a Suburban. Just remember that our 1997 fuel pump/sender assemblies are different than the 1998+trucks. Our 96-97 trucks dont have teh pastic bucket assembly.
GM Performance :: View topic - Which Walbro?


I do wonder why its going lean, IF IT IS GOING LEAN. Unless the GM techs had a wideband O2 sensor, I dont see how they can ACCURALTEY tell you its going lean. Unless they are simply looking at the narrowband O2 sensor volatges via the TECH 2 scantool. That isnt a very accurate way to determine a WOT A/F ratio.

Is there any way that you can watch your fuel pressure while the truck is at WOT while driving? Like taping the gauge to your windshield while driving? I have taken my hood off to do just that. If your hose is long enough on your gauge, you can do this easily.

Take care, and keep us posted.

Awesome swap.

BTW, when I deadhead my stock Vortec 350 pump, by clamping the return line of my fuel system, the stock pump will reach 100psi.

peace
Hog

I agree with Hog, no problems here using the stock 97 vortec fuel pump and I'm putting out over 420 rwhp NA.

Sorry for being gone...I have been trying to fix everything.

I went to the dyno and he ended up tuning it to get 348 power and 358 torque.

We didn’t get it tuned all the way because my drive shaft twisted in-half.

So I got it towed to a driveline place and got a new aluminum one.

When I got home it was running good but I was still having idle problems, so it had a vacuum leak.

I took the BBK off and the bottom access panel was the problem, one of the bolts was laying in the valley.

I took it apart and permatexed the help out of it and now I'm running 6% rich.

It's running good but I'm going back to the dyno to fine tune

I just wanted to let everybody know not to trust the RPO code. I should have a 3.42 gear and it's more like a 3.08. I don't know if the owner before me changed it or if GM screwed up.

I always thought it was weird that I had to be going 80 in 6th gear for it not to bog(I thought it was because the truck is heavier).

Anyway I ordered a 3.90, that should really wake her up.