Wet vs. Dry

Just thought this might be helpful to some of you guys out there.
So i don't get in trouble, lol this was taken off of ls1.com

A wet system has a fuel solenoid and a nitrous solenoid. So...the extra fuel that is needed when spraying nitrous is supplied through a solenoid and a jet. With a dry system you only supply nitrous to the engine but the nitrous is routed through the MAF sensor so that your engine's fuel injectors are instructed to supply the additional fuel. Your fuel pump must be up to the task in either case but your injectors must also be up to the task with a dry system.

The cons of a wet kit are that you have a fuel solenoid and if it fails, disaster strikes. There is only one N2O solenoid (if it sticks wide open, disaster), fuel is not distributed as efficiently or evenly, and fuel can puddle in the intake manifold (which was never meant to flow fuel saturated air) and cause an intake backfire, bottle pressure is crucial because it affects the fuel/air ratio, if the bottle goes empty during a run or the N2O flow is stopped for any reason your car goes extremely rich, and tuning is not done by the computer.

The ONLY reasons I can see to have a wet kit on an LS1 is that you want the capability to run an extra 25 hp shot on the stock fuel system or if you need to spray a really large shot (200 HP+) that would be too high for the MAF sensor to report. Still, even with that extra 25 hp I've yet to see an internally stock A4 with a wet kit and a stock fuel system run higher traps than what I've done with this dry kit. Trap speed equals power!

The cons of a dry kit are that if you want to go higher than a 125hp shot (or 150hp on a '98) you will need bigger injectors and soon thereafter, an additional fuel pump. With a wet kit you can go to a 150hp shot right off the bat and then you'll need an additional fuel pump if you want to go bigger but no injectors.



later,

allen

i kinda thought Wet was better, but im not sure. there have been a lot of "warnings" about fuel or Nitrous pudlling up and backfiring/exploding and such lately dealing with the Wet kits.

i guess im up in the air. what do you guys think?

Brandon

I kinda thought dry was better. If you fuel system can keep up you will get an easy HP increase. If the N20 quits no biggie just turns off, no boom?

Quote:

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Originally posted by GMCwantsLS1@May 8 2003, 08:06 PM
If the N20 quits no biggie just turns off, no boom?

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werd. the motor will just go overly rich and bog out and stall. imo, if your motor has no additions to it such as heads/cam or forced induction, then the dry kit is the best bet. otoh, if you are running forced induction or heads/cam, then your fuel injectors will most likely be maxed and will be better off running a wet system which stems fuel from the fuel line and routes it via another solenoid into your intake without affecting your injectors at all. as far as the fuel solenoid failing, allowing only n20 to spray on a wet system--this problem is covered by using the correct safety equipment---->fuel pressure safety switch (fpss). what the fpss does is detect any fuel pressure drop below minimum tolerances that triggers it to automatically shut off nitrous flow to the engine, prohibiting engine damage. the only other risk is if the n20 solenoid gets stuck open, then you've got a problem. but this risk is just as possible with a dry system as it is with a wet. the only step i'm aware of to safegaurd against this is to use nitrous express (nx) solenoids, which are arguably the best solenoids out there to use.

do any of you guys know of a company that makes a intank fuel pump for a 2000 silverado i've checked with walbro and all other big companys can't seem to find one though see because i'm going with a wet kit and this is the second time i've put the gas on my truck the first time i fucked the fuel pump so i want to fix the problem before it breaks :nx:

I put a fuel pump in my 94 truck, it was the upgraded camaro walboro pump 255lph, are you sure it won't fit? i just pulled my assembly out of my tahoe and it had the same pump also,

just thought i'd let you know that, may help.


later,

allen

well if the walbro will work that will be great !

i was told that it will not be sufficient. i was told that the stock flowed more like 300 something i was looking for a bolt in assembly direct replacment and isn't the car and truck have two diffrent fuel systems i thought the truck was more like the 97 vette. any help would be great thanks :smile:

i know the camaros and newer ls trucks run about 60psi, actually the trucks run a few psi less.

the stock one flows way less than 255, there are a few upgrades in between the stock and 255lph. i removed my 99 tahoe pump, the tbi engine style, and the pump looked exactly like my 94 tbi v6 truck pmp and the camaro 255lph pump. i know they all flow a little different, but they look like they are all the same size, as far as length, diameter. I know i could physically replace my 94 truck pump with my tahoe pump, it would fit, as far as size, but it wouldn't flow enuff.

if that was confusing, lol, i guess i'm trying to say they are look the same but have different psi ratings.


hope this helps,

allen

yea i get what your saying thanks it is the same thing everyone has told me i just wish someone would make a bolt on replacment that would support serious hp numbers for the truck it's always hard to find parts for these new cars and trucks thanks anyway man hey by the way could i use a camaro ecm and program it to work on the truck would i have to hard wire it maybe wires go diffrent places just a thought didn't know if the f-body ecm would be easier or better :thumb:

cool, hope it works for you.

you can use the camaro pcm but there's no advatage to using it, if you have your pcm programmed all the settings and tables can be duplicated from the camaro pcm. the camaro pcm isn't stronger or better, it just comes with a more aggressive program than a truck, but if you get your truck pcm modified...


later,

allen

thanks man one last thing does it matter if the pcm is for automatic or manual or year of pcm because i have a pcm for a 2000 z-28 with a automatic would this work just install and drive no programing bye the way my truck is a 2000 silverado with 5.3 thanks allen :thumb:

if you are planning on getting the pcm flashed at the dealer it doesn't matter what it is, i had a truck pcm, but i flashed it to a 01 z28, everything works fine on it.
if you are planning on getting another pcm to swap out back and forth for tuning , i would suggest getting the pcm done just like your stock one,

both manual and auto pcms have the same tables in it for the engine, but if you have an auto and get it flashed to a maunual your truck may not work properly, becuase some of the settings for a manual are zero'd out or not there at all, and if you have an auto, it no worky right, hehe


good luck,

allen