the cam's going in.

well i started the deconstruction last night. i am just worried because i am not the best mechanic. but i got the procharger off and the alternator off. but how in the hell do i get that fan off. i undid the bolts but it fell back. do i have to pull that too. i am going to take the intake and heads off and lt my nechanic friend take the pulleys off. i am also still waiting for the gasket kit to come in. and with it my springs and pushrods. i sure hope this turns out to be worth it. but i think it will i am going to raise my rev limit to around 6700 and maybe get a psi ot 2 more and alot more power. hopefully.
oh is there a writeup on this somewhere. like step by step that i can printout.

LS1Howto.com

good for an fbody, almost the same as what you're doing.

Oh damn... Brent is going at this himself... God, save us all... :LOL:
J/K man. Put those bolts back on the fan. Since the fan clutch has never been removed, spray some bolt penetrant or WD-40 on the big nut. Drain radiator (make sure to drain it from the drain plug and use a funnel to catch most of the coolant into the drain pan). Go rent the fan clutch removal kit from O'Reilly's. Come back and take off upper and lower radiator hoses. Take out radiator. Make sure to let the WD-40 sit for a while so it can to it's work. Try and hold onto the belt (trying not to stretch it out in the process) or jamb a screw driver in the crank pulley (harmonic balancer) so it and the other pulleys don't move when breaking the fan clutch nut. But make sure you don't bend or damage the crank pulley... The fan clutch nut is standard thread. Most people think is is reverse thread, so don't try tightening it any further. When you go to break the fan clutch nut, don't apply even pressure--snap it to the left in sharp, quick motions. You may have to try and break/snap it several times, but it WILL come off... If you end up putting a screwdriver into the crank pulley, make sure to have it tensioned so that when you snap the fan clutch bolt, you don't slam the screw driver against the pulley and block... PM sent.

Leave the fan on the pump....thats the way I did my first cam

easy way to get it off is with a airhammer put the tip on the edge of the nut and hit a few times and it spins right off thats how the tech at work takes like 2sec and no knuckle busting

Quote:

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Originally Posted by COWL327

Leave the fan on the pump....thats the way I did my first cam

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Hell no makes everything else a PITA, big crescent wrench on the big nut, use a sledge to tap the handle of the wrench hard and it will eventually come off, oh and leave the belt on while doing this.

well, i have to do everything the hard way, and went at it before i read all this. i left the fan on the pump. i now have the intake manifold, water pump, and coils and valve covers off. what bolts release the heads. are they the big bolts by the headers, i took all the little ones off near the intake valley. or do i have to remove the rockers?

5 bolts along the bottom of the head by the exhuast and 5 bolts under the rocker arm trays. No need to remove the heads unless you're replacing the lifters. No need to replace the lifters unless you know something is wrong with them, they're rollers and rarely wear out.

Yeah, I was about to say...why you taking the heads off? And why did you pull the intake manifold off? Is the radiator out? Have you disconnected all of the coolant lines? Do you know how to spin the cam to make sure the lifters stay up? Do you know about how to get TDC lined up before removing the cam? Many things to know before you progress...

I hope you didn't pull the heads to change the cam.

Are you running meth? I didn't see it in your sig. If not, you better. Or you will end up with the same motor I have sitting on the floor.

When all else fails....read the directions

im changing the heads also. i have a set of ls1 heads to put on. and i wrung half my bolts off in my stock heads installing my headers. so they leak real bad. the ls1 heads are 5cc's larger than the 5.3 so this should lower my compression. and the intake valves are larger. i do have a real nice stage 2 meth kit from snow that i used to run on my sub, that is now sitting in my garage.

Oh, so you are doing the heads... Yeah, taking the heads off are easy. You are doing ARP studs, right? Make sure to get new head gaskets from GM. And make sure to put on the meth kit on the Silvy when done...