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which plates?
*FROM LS1TECH*
VVVV
http://matt.undiagnosed.org/ls1/imag...ount_plate.jpg
^^^ This one seems to be the one that everyone uses...
http://matt.undiagnosed.org/ls1/imag...t_plate_V2.jpg
^^WTF is this for??
eBay Motors: 1962-1967 Nova X-body Chevy II LS1 Conversion Kit (item 260147701760 end time Nov-06-07 17:41:08 PST)
^^^ does that look like an alternative to "banging out the cup" in the stock-style engine side mounts?
I run a CNC mill for 12 hours a day and roommate runs CNC plasma table. I want to put 5.3 + T-56 into my 91. I have the V8 mounts. We could make these for half price cheap! Which ones would we/everyone need?
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I made a set out of stainless like the first pic. That print is just slightly off so measure the center to centers on your block unless you open the hloes up a 1/64th larger for alignment. Not to sure why they went with the countersunk holes because I had enough clearance for a regular hex head cap screw. I used the counter sunk holes anyway. LOL Here's a pick of my plates.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d7...g?t=1194315165
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d7...g?t=1194315249
BTW, the hole in the cylinder block is to add more cubic inch. :lol:
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Those look pretty similar to the ones in mine. :thumb: They're holding up just fine even with all the abuse they've gotten.
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1 Attachment(s)
BTW, The 2nd set of plates will fit a C4 swap like this one. Some friends of mine are doing this one.
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ooo thank you thank you for the pics nitrous!!:D Yeah, i have an LS1 block that threw #7 rod through the block, i can use it to measure and then my stock cups. So they just share that one bottom center hole? NIiiice. The stainless looks nice. Would a huge chunk of aluminum that was milled out to bolt the 4 bolts to the LS block, then perpendicular 2 ears for the frame side mount be feasible? Perhaps with steel bushings on the "ears" going to the frame mounts? One piece from the frame mount to the engine block humm...
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LOL, Ya some good stainless works well huh Greg?
r6z4o6, the aluminum will work fine. S&P makes them out of 5/8" plate but they can be a bitch to get the bolts through. I'd stick with some 3/8 carbon steel or stainless if you have access, if not use the aluminum.
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OKOK. So the drawings i put up in first post say to use 1/4 inch steel...but yours are 3/8 correct? I like a little bit of insurance for "junstincases."Got my ls1 block in the back of the hyundai and taking it to work tomorrow. Got my v-8 cups, i plan on making plates, bolting them to cups, then taking THOSE dimensions and making:
http://www.ls1truck.com/upload/files...motormount.bmp*
So what is the difference in v6 and v8 on-frame motor mounts? If i can get my hands on a set i can make a one-piece motor mount for the v8 and a seperate revison for the v6 equipped obs trucks. In theory, it would keep v6 trucks from taking their front end apart, buying new v8 on-frame mounts, v8 cups, banging cups flat, and then get adapter plates....or am i just wasting time and need to make my steel plates and go about my business?:slice:
* (c) 2007
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I'd make the steel plates and use the mounting cups. You'll need to grind the raised area off the side of the cups that the plates mount to.
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eBay Motors: LS1 LS6 CONVERSION MOTOR MOUNTS ADAPTER PLATES (item 230188741384 end time Nov-11-07 15:14:01 PST)
These are the ones I used (as best as I can remember). They worked fine. Keep in mind...once everything is in you cant see them. So as long as they are strong and line up they are as good as any.
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Squint real hard to see the dark blue!!
Dark Blue = LSX engine
Bright Red = CHevy truck side
I read on the LS1 swap sticky that if the 3 bolt part was moved to the front an inch, the driveshaft / crossmember changing would be minimalized. What do you guys think? Top is what some places sell now, bottom is what i will mock up in aluminum tomorrow(hopefully)
http://www.ls1truck.com/upload/files/31/plate1.jpg
http://www.ls1truck.com/upload/files/31/plate2.jpg
3/8 thick aluminum, countersunk holes on the red circles to flush mount whatever hardware i decide to put in. Once this part works, then i will put some "ears" on it make it out of steel and weld it *crosses fingers*
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The best way to keep the transmission alignment is to make a set of mounts for mock-up, drop the engine in and mark where your mounts need to be to align properly. The 1" rearward placement is difficult to do if you're swapping an Fbody accessory setup into a vehicle. The alternator ends up interfering with the driver side frame/rubber mount.
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If you are going to add the ears and skip the original mount. Why even add the three holes (in red) for it?
That's odd (Greg). I had no interference issue with the alternator and my plates (transdapt) set it back very close to 1.125. I left my (trans) crossmember in it's stock location ('92 350/350) and made a .250 thick aluminum plate to offset (again 1.125) the mounting holes for the transmission mount.
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Since our motor mounts mount to the 45% angle of the side of the block---Making adapter plates of 3/16 or 1/4 or 5/16 will change the width of the mount ears. So which thickness would be best to use, so that the engine mount to frame mount through bolt lines up best. I know it can't make much of a difference, but it will make a little.
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Mine are .250 thick. I also had to buy both mounts, not fun bolting those on the cross member without removing the lower a-arms. But I won that battle. With the new motor mounts and the .250 thick adapters, there was a lot of prying to get the bolts through.
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I'm thinking mine were 3/16" plate and took just a small tug/lift of the driver side of the engine with the hoist after putting the driver side bolt in.
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http://www.ls1truck.com/upload/files/35/IMG_1758.JPGI was above by about a half a hole (both) so I pryed up on the mounts (the inner rubber encased metal sleeves). I think my spelling is in the toilet. Never posted pics so here is a try.
http://www.ls1truck.com/upload/files/35/IMG_1762.JPG
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the bottom design is the first one I tried but the alternator would not fit properly so I went with the top design, on my first LS1 truck conversion. 2nd truck I went straight for the proven design.
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DUDE YOU ARE THE MAN it totally makes sense to me how it all fits together! i know exactly what i need to but and how it works you are the SHI* If i go to a GM dealer would i be able to buy the V8 frame mounts with and the cups? and just buy the adapters on ebay? Advance auto parts has them for 26$ a piece..
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I got my motor mounts from Rock Auto (online) ebay sale actually. The cups >yes< the dealer and I got my adapters thru Summit. Had to replace everything, what was left (the motor mounts) was torched, when it was stolen and stripped.
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You can get everything at the dealer but the adapter plates. The ones on Ebay are the best price I've ever found short of free for a very good friend. :thumb: $26 each is a great price for the rubber mounts. I paid a lot more for mine. :tantrum:
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project92 >> "Mine are .250 thick." + .250 cup = .500 and big tug to fit
RedHeartbeat >> "mine were .1875 (3/16) plate " + .250 cup = .4375 and little tug to fit
I am thinking .375 thick steel with the ears welded and gusseted will have even less tugging to fit. It is 'only' 1/8 thicker than stock cups by themselves but if you incorporate the ears from the cup to the adapter plate you can save space/material since you are not bolting 2 semi thick pieces of metal together. Have to put a torque converter in my Hyundai this weekend then im back on track.
Can anyone get waterjet work done? I have cnc and plasma table but it seems overkill and i wanna get these done CHEAP.:melissa:
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Me. I'd use .250 and cut them on your N/C Plasma Arc. .375 to me seems overkill.
Depending on how you will drill the holes, if you N/C them you may as well mill the profile at the same time.
I will admit a waterjet will give a better finish than the plasma arc. We use all here at work (sadly, no home projects).
A really nice thing about this design is you can put the engine nearly anywhere you want.
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Any Progress?
:hyper2::hyper2::hyper2::hyper2:
R6Z4O6 -
I am following this thread with great interest, as I am preparing to do a similar swap and am not very impressed with the plates/cups arrangement currently available.
Please reply with your latest progress, if any.
I have a buddy who owns a machine shop with 3-axis water jet and CNC equipment and will follow up with him if you are stalled right now.
Looking forward to hearing from you.
