have any of you done a cam swap without new springs? and if so how big was the cam?
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have any of you done a cam swap without new springs? and if so how big was the cam?
i havent heard of any personally.... IMO i would just spend the lil extra cash for ALOT of security
pretty much, any cam change should get better springs
Pick up some yellow LS6 springs, good to right around .550-.560" lift. Best part, under $75.
I suggest springs on any cam, I was floating valves with my 02 LS6 cam which is a baby cam 204/217
i have a simular question. i just got done installing a vhp .551/.551 "the trucker cam" and i installed with stock valve springs.... now the cam is supose to only have power until 6200, will i start floating them way before that??? i know with the stock didnt float the valves until around 6000 so i wouldnt think that 200 extra would be to bad. i dont even know if im gonna have it shift that high. but anyways just curious.. thanks
ryan
You're going to beat those stock springs to pieces. If anything I'd lower the redline to prevent floating the valves. The stock springs weren't designed to handle those rpm and you've increase the speed and ramp angles of the valves along with the distance they'll have to travel. Did you also reuse the stock pushrods?
yes i did use the stock push rod :cry: i really dont want to pull this thing apart again.. i figure the worse that happens i that it will float them. it sucks having put the motor all together and then find out that i gotta take it back apart
ryan
research people research!
all you have to do is pull the coils and valve covers to switch springs and pushrods. Get some CompCams 26918-16 springs and 7.400 CompCams or ThunderRacing hardened .080" wall pushrods. There's a guy on LS1Tech in the tool section that markets an inexpensive spring compressor tool, about $20. An air compressor tool to hold the valves and you're ready to switch springs. I'll take the spark plug out, put some cotton rope into the cylinder(leaving some hanging out to retrieve it) and the rotate the piston around to TDC to lock the valve in place while swapping springs.
thanks for the info. well i pulled it out of the shop tonight and drove it home... is it normal to want to stall without a proper tune? and its very ruff kinda sh!tty sounding until 2000 rpm is this also because of the tune? or is it because i need a stall? sorry for all the questions jus kinda new to the cam swapping.. im an outboard boat mechanic so all i kknow is mostly 2 strokes.. thanks alot to all who replied
ryan
Yep, time for a tune and a convertor.
i ran my scanner on my truck last night and ive got a p0300 is this normal to have before being tuned? alittle scared i didnt hook omething back up right.lol.
P0300 is random misfiring on the cylinders. It's not specific to any of the cylinders. I take it the engine is having a hard time idling? A tune is definitely in need. If your throttle body has a stop screw to adjust the throttle blades, you can get a little more air in to help it idle better until you can get it tuned.
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(tenzcustomz @ May 28 2007, 02:03 AM) [snapback]94923[/snapback]</div>Yeah, got the same code once I did my cam swap. I went ahead and did a crank relearn. That solved the problem with the code.Quote:
i ran my scanner on my truck last night and ive got a p0300 is this normal to have before being tuned? alittle scared i didnt hook omething back up right.lol. [/b]
You definitely need a tune. It will even out the idle, compensate the air/fuel for the new lift durations, and help out driveability. And since you have lost some of the bottom-end power, I see a TT3000 in your near future...