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I got my truck running perfect now. It was low on tranny fluid, that was causing the higher revs.
Just too add a little note in here, i swapped a 2003 4.3 motor too a 2003 5.3 motor, the torque converter worked with no adapters or extensions needed. I used the stock 5.3 flexplate with it as well...
I just tought i would state that for future people looking too do this swap.
Now time too turbo the truck.I want more power already!!! :)
well... then you'll want a higher stall to build some boost when you launch
Well I'm at a stop for my engine swap. 3 weeks ago, I gave my wiring harness to a local car electrical shop after they told me that the splice and repair would take just over a week. That was 3 weeks ago. When I call I get the owner who says he is going to call me back but he never does. I left him a nasty message last night and he called my wife this morning saying that she can pick up the harness after 2pm. He calls her and asks for a delay. My wife, digs her teeth in and he now says that he's going to drop it off at our house tonight, again after a few hours past, my wife calls and he says he just around the corner. That was 3 hours ago. My guess is the for what ever reason he doesn't have the harness. I'm not sure what my legal options are but I now have to find a full working engine wiring harness. WTF......
****Update****
The shop owner just left my house (10pm). The harness he had wasn't mine. I had every connection taped with blue & white tape stating location and purpose of plug. Not one piece of tape was on there. The 2 big connections for the PCM where wrong. I have a blue and red and his harness was blue and green. It also had a DBW connector and I have a 02 5.3 that has a cable throttle. I'm beside myself...... Needless to say he took the harness back with him to make the changes.
File a complaint with the Better Business Bureau, for starters.
Sounds to me like you're dealing with Oscar Juarez, crook extraordinaire.
I just spent my evening researching transmission options, can anyone confirm the FLT level 3 will live with a stock LQ9 towing up to 6500 pounds, but no racing, nitrous, or other abuse? Until tonight, I was a Bowtie Overdrives believer, but it seems the FLT is now the right company for me. It's going in an '06 RCLB 2WD WT 1500 with few options, and 4.10:1 gears, and 245/70R17 tires
Seriously, you need to change over to an 80e transmission for that level of towing. The 60e was never designed to work that hard.
Thank you for being willing to type what you felt would be helpful, but it doesn't really directly answer what I'm hoping to find out.
To all future responders, a 4L80E is NOT happening. The TCI 6X is too costly, plus would require another axle ratio change, this time going back to a 3.73:1 gear.
does anyone from FLT ever log in here? I'm looking at a combined weight of around 11,000 pounds dry. Not very much. In fact, adding the GVWR of pickup and trailer comes to only 14,000. Not a serious load. Stock 4L60Es are rated to do that with a 5.3L.
It occurrs to me that the elevation I live and drive at affects engine output, so I researched that. It seems I lose 4% per thousand feet. I live at 4500 feet, so I'm losing 18%. So, 380 ft-lbs times 0.82 is 311.6. That's right between a 4.8 and a 5.3. A level 3 should do. But I want to tow to the Olympic mountains, ( among other places, ) and the base of those is near sea level.
Looking at FLT's info, compared to level 4, the level 5 adds a billet 4th gear servo, but I don't tow in fourth, ever. It also adds 5-pinion carriers, which aren't needed below 450 ft-lbs.
You're going to kill a 60e, I don't care what GM rated it for, you'll burn it up towing anything. So either blow your money on whichever one you choose than replace it with an 80e when it breaks, or put an 80e in it now. But then from reading your other posts it's taken you a decade to put a new rear end in it, so I can see why you don't want the hassle of the 80e swap, the truck would be permanently down. And then you'd have to get it tuned for the 80e and God knows tuners are just out to steal your money.
You do not need the TCI controller for the 80e to work on a Gen3/4 engine, the PCM can be tuned to control 100% of the shift functionality. You don't need to change gears to get the 80e to accelerate quickly either, the 80e converter is a lot looser than a 60e converter is. It's your money, spend it how you like but do it wisely and well informed.
Why clutter up a motor conversion topic with the same tranny question you asked in a new thread?
That's a fair question. Here's my honest reply: First, I know some guys participate in some sub-forums but not in others. Second, I'm not the first to ask a swap related trans upgrade question in this thread, but those guys didn't get grief for it.
What you have to keep in mind is that we are all here to help each other. And we honestly are trying to you. You give us parameters that are clearly outside the known livability limits of the 4l60 (which is barely adequate for non-towing light duty use-and there are some who wouldnt even go that far) and then you ignore the advice and say youre going to do it anyway. I havent read any other posts you have put up with this same question, but I bet youre getting the same answer in those other places too. Im sorry, but it is what it is, and its going to be what it is going to be. And youre going to have to get used to people losing patience with you if you continue to ignore what they tell you. Just because you want a certain answer doesnt mean that its the right one-or that you'll get one that you like.
As far as whether anyone can build a '60 to live behind your engine, and in front of your load, the answer is yes. But the catch is, for how long. '60s can be built to take a lot of horsepower in a light car and do the 1/4 mile repeatedly, but towing 25,000lbs+ up a mountain or even a long 2% grade is going to fry it. It'll be fine around town but dont get too far away from home, or its going to be a long walk.
She's Alive!!!!!!!!!
But... a bit funky....
Got the engine swap done tonight. It took 2 of us a full 2 days. I'll go into more details on my own post but here is what I'm looking at,
I'm getting a P0405 TC at idle. I haven't driven the truck yet. I clear it but it comes back.
Back up lights are on while trans is in park and when the trans is in drive or rev, I'm getting a loud clicking noise from my brake pedal as if it's unlocking so I can shift from park to D or R. Also, back up lights turn off while in rev but go back on in park.
ideas...
Thanks
Carnell
p.s. She started right up on first try!!!!! I cant wait to take her for a spin......
****UPDATE*****
The code is for a EGR.... I don't think I have a EGR......... There is nothing on the passenger manifold.
This is a very informative thread
I've got one question I didn't see answered...
Will motor mounts and/or frame mounts from a tahoe/suburban/Yukon 1500 2wd work?
Thanks for any help
The frame mounts won't work. You'll need to buy or find frame mounts for the silverado. My donor engine was from a tahoe and they gave me the existing frame mounts and it was a no go. The engine mounts are the same. I just got new ones before the install. Their not that expensive.
Thank you very much for the quick reply. That's good to hear the motor mounts will work even if the frame mounts won't.
The dealership near me wanted $300 for the full set unfortunately. That sounded way high to me, but I didn't really know. Im scouring junkyards now.
Just know that the frame mounts that you need are to different molds. If I remember right, the passenger side was a bit bigger and cost more (new) then the driver side. If you get a set from the junk yard and they Are the same size, it's the wrong ones. I think the total cost for the frame mounts at the dealer was $150. I got my engine mounts online from rock auto. They had the beat prices for th engine mounts.
Yall are so lucky to have been able to do that to your trucks I know I will someday but noone I know around here is interested to help me, Im pretty sure I'll need another set of hands to swap everything around when the time comes. Im just glad I have all of you on here for reference lol.
that's what i said... til i got a little extra motivation - something along the lines of a broken rod :(Quote:
Originally Posted by Dreamer
Yeah I read up on your post I appreciate the detail you went into yours too every bit of info (and pictures!) helps me feel like I can eventually do this, just out of curiousity how much do you think I would need at the most to complete this task, after all the parts, and other expenses? I know it would be over a couple grand but if it were to be over 4 or 5 then I dunno. Im sure it all would depend on how efficent I would want it to be in the long run such as previous people said.
if it ends up costing 4 or 5 grand, then
http://cdn1.knowyourmeme.com/i/2626/...jpg?1242842328
...unless you're really doing it right!
i spent around 2, i think for everything
I think I could have done mine around $1,500 but I wanted to rebuild and clean / paint the junkyard V8, added E-fans, Tune and fan harness by Nelson etc........ By the time I was done, I was out of pocket around $2,500. Worth it..... I love the extra pulling power.....
Yeah thats not bad at all I guess I'll start saving for this project by next year, hopefully lol. If yall hear of a 6.0 for sale thats a good deal let me know!
I did a quick search on ebay and found this, is it a good deal or bad deal to yall? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2005-...item230cf77f54 Would rather have the LQ-9 but I would be happy with the 4 too.
Good thread this is going to be helpful in a few months
ok here is my question. My truck has the 4l60e which i will be keeping for now, what mods need to be made to my 06 6.0 harness to work with the 60e?
Also anyone have the PN, for the oil cooler block off plate.
Im swaping a 06 lk4 into my 05 rcsb, if it helps.
Im swapping my 00 4.3 out for a 99 5.3 Will I need the Hughes 4L60E flexplate adapter?
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HU...sion+Type|4L60
Hey all, i'm trying to get some information for a buddy of mine who wants to do an 04 gmc sierra 4wd with a 4.3 to an 05 5.3 swap. i have done 2 swaps before but never run into the issue where his 4.3 is a drive by cable throttle body yet the 5.3 harness is drive by wire. is it smarter for him to get a 99-02 harness or to buy the electronic pedal and TAC module? Can the 05 5.3 harness be used with the 99-02 throttle body by simply leaving the plug undone or will that simply not work. Thanks for any info you can provide.
Hmm.... this is a good question and im interested in finding out the answer.
Surely just not plugging in the TB sensor will work. I would say just get the 99-02 harness but it won't work with the 03+pcm. You can't run a 99-02 pcm because the rest of the truck is 03+. I wonder if the Dr. X harness would come into play here at all?!
Hopefully there is a way around it but idk for sure. If not, looks like ya might have to buy the pedal and TAC module. Junkyard would be the best place for that route
Post this question over on performancetrucks, im sure there will be alot of curious people over there as well
I would think you need to get an 04 harness assembly with dbw so the the BCM and PCM can talk to each other. IDK
hmm i may just do that, i didnt even thing of the different PCM issue, im thinking getting the pedal assemby and TAC module sounds easier so long as there isnt anything else besides those 2 components to make the drive by wire work as it should.Quote:
Originally Posted by f4tal
hey Greg, i have the harness from my 04 6.0 which should work on the 05 5.3 as the 05 5.3 harness worked with my 04 6.0 when swapped.Quote:
Originally Posted by RedHeartbeat
this question has been asked many different times throughout the 35 pages of this thread but there hasnt been 1 real definite answer to any of them, ill do my best to figure it out! thanks all!
okay so to answer my own question someone over on PT.net posted this response in the same thread, evidently by getting the pedal, tac module, and harness he was all set.
"does ur 5.3 have drive by cable or drive by wire throttle body...in my cases the 4.3 has a db cable setup.....my 6.0l has a db wire setup....so i had to go out and get a dbw pedal and module along with the harness for the two of them!
not bad though i found a guy who has em for 55 plus shipping...let me know if u need one!"
There ya go. Glad you found it. Sucks you have to buy the pedal and module but at least it'll be done right. Goodluck!
Im in the process of doing a lq4 swap into my 05. The 4.3 is now a boat anchor.
good luck. plenty of info around here
Hey man I've blown up my 4.3 and was searching around to see if I could swap in a 5.3 for a feasible price. If I have a complete engine with a matching year/make PCM could I just plug and play, or would I still have to have my V6 PCM reflashed? How much did your reflash cost? And could I use the stock gas lines up to the engine bay and then put a threaded end on the stock lines and re route to make them work? Every thing else I need (hoses, etc) I would just get at junk yard like you recommended. Let me know. Call or text (912) 614-7921 or email me @ t.austinjacobs@gmail.com.
Thanks man!
no offense, but almost every question you asked is answered in this thread or threads referenced by this one. you only have to get a new PCM if you have a 99 truck or are swapping to/from the 00-02 style or 03-07 style. every tuner charges differently. lines gotta get cut (click my sig to see pics) may as well get new hoses.Quote:
Originally Posted by t.austinjacobs@gmail.com
it's all here :ugh2:
Where would i be able to find a complete engine like the one pictured above
A junkyard.
or in somebody else's truck... but you're liable to get shot trying to take that one