Your problem sounds like it may be a bad MAP sensor, BUT you did scale it correctly, right?
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Your problem sounds like it may be a bad MAP sensor, BUT you did scale it correctly, right?
well we are doing a little better but still not good lol. it will idle but its still so rich. we brought it to the gas station a mile round trip or so and its just so rich but we will work on it this week. I brake boosted 2nd and got about 4lbs out of it at 1/4 throttle and it felt pretty good.
My roommate is doing most of the tuning so maybe he did or didnt. How do you properly scale it? I think the map may be working correctly and we just have a problem with the tune. Any help is greatly appreciated!
How did you get the coils to be angled, and did you do the universal MSD wires that you have to make?
Also I was wondering if you have added up what you have into the complete turbo set up?
to angle the coils, all I did was remove the bolt opposite of which way they were already slightly angled then loosened the other one and cut what ever part of the coil bracket I needed to so that they are allowed to swing over, then tightened the one bolt. I then just cut 4 pieces of aluminum (2 for each side) and drilled a hole on each end of each piece and used them to relocate the coil bracket up closer to the intake manifold. The aluminum pieces are 1/8" thick and 1/2" wide and about 1.25-1.5" long. And yea the wires are the MSD universal LS1 wires. Including all the turbo stuff, all the fuel stuff, all the engine stuff (cam, lifters, pushrods, springs, oil pump, timing chain, rod bolts, head studs, head gaskets and other gaskets) and PCV stuff I have roughly $4,500-$5000 in it. Thats a ballpark figure but probably pretty accurate
Disclaimer: I have not done it yet, but will most likely be trying it today on my truck.
Find the barometer readings for your area, then log the map sensor with key on/engine off. You want to adjust the offset so the map sensor readings correspond with the barometer readings. Hopefully someone can chime in with the technical way to do it. When I do it later, i'll post up the process/results.
OK yea we worked on that for a while last night and no matter what we did we couldn't get it to read under 90 at idle. Since its a duralast sensor I figured anything is possible so we swapped the positive and negative wires on the sensor and played with the scale values and set it to 25 and sure as shoot it read 100.8 kpa which is the exact baro pressure here. But.... we can't get it to fire off. It hits on about 3-5 cylinders then dies. So I I'm calling RPS today to send back my 3bar map that I cant use and see if he will just send me a GM 2 bar instead
Well im 99.999% sure I fingered out the problem. I sent back the 3bar today to RPS and they are sending me a 2bar GM sensor. As I was in line to return the duralast sensor at autozone I decided to look up the part number on the box and found out that that particular sensor fits just about every obd2 gm vehicle so that was a red flag that meant it was a darn 1bar sensor!! i did a little more research and found a thread on ls1tech about a guy having the same sensor and the same problem. So the duralast sensor is a 1bar map sensor. fhewww. Glad I got that straightened out. So hopefully the 2bar from RPS will be here soon and we can get this thing going! I cant believe it didnt occur to me to check the part number
Well just a little update, I got the 2bar map in and that was the problem. We got it to idle decently and drive decently too. It goes to get tuned next Saturday and my roommate wants to take it to the track sunday but idk if the stock drive shaft will hold. Its been 12.2 @107 with a 1.64 60' but I'm guessing it may trap in the mid to high 120s with maybe a 1.5x 60' with slicks of course. Should I be worried about the driveshaft? Should I just wait to go to the track till I can afford a driveshaft?
It will probably hold up, where are you located?