Well I need my truck running today. Can I just make the v6 holes bigger do it will mount? The holes aint that far off.
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Well I need my truck running today. Can I just make the v6 holes bigger do it will mount? The holes aint that far off.
i know it's inconvenient, but do it right the first time & you'll only have to do it once. i needed my truck running the whole 5 months it was down - i worked out of town & was having to borrow vehicles
I suggest you not feel bad about this any more, because this is typical. I actually expected it, but that's because I've been at this hobby for decades. I too had a broken coil and a cut harness with my LM7, and no harness at all on my LQ4, and neither included the engine computer. Even their chain work cracked one of my LM7's valve covers nearly in half. They're not gonna include anything they can charge you extra for by selling it separately, and they're not gonna be careful of the parts they expect you to replace. They're just a bunch of disgruntled minimum-wage guys, doing the bare minimum to keep getting their tiny paychecks.Quote:
Originally Posted by carnell
Ya I'm not so sure whats so hard when I ask and pay for the whole engine wiring harness. To their credit, they felt bad and got me other cut half the next day along with 2 coils. The big question is if I'm going to be able splice and fix it.
That sounds like a huge pain in the ass. I went to a junkyard and picked up a harness for a little under 200. I also got my motor not really all complete for 700 without harnessQuote:
Originally Posted by carnell
New drama....
The machine shop called and said that I have a 4.8 and not a 5.3. I guess the crank size is different. My receipt said I bought a 5.3. Sooo the big question, do I take the engine back (in pieces) and demand a refund along with the machine work??? Or will a new crank bring the engine to a 5.3????
Thoughts.......
a 5.3 crank will get you a high compression 5.3 with those flat-top 4.8 pistons. as for any other differences - someone else can chime in on that
After a little research, I was bale to find casting info for the crank and pistons for a 5.3L engine and confirm that's what I have. No harm or foul for the machine shop. Looking at it now, easy mistake.
When i bought the V8 swap it came with the ecu and all connected. I tried too start the truck today and nothing. Starter dont turn over or anything.Theirs a key lock and car light on the guage cluster, that turns on when trying too start the truck. Do i need to get the key programmed or anything for the new ecu?
I installed my v6 ecu back into the truck, it does the same thing.
As far as i can tell everything is connected and installed correctly am i missing something?
Thanks
sounds like VATS needs to be disabled. who did your tune?
Do the VATS relearn. You have all the VATS equipment, you don't need it disabled, just the relearn.
I didn't get tuned.I was using the stock v8 ecu instead. So I have too take the truck too dealer? This swap is a pain in the butt. All this info wasn't posted anywhere
The fuel pump does prime tough.
I'm getting ready to do the swap and I have spent allot of time on this board reading and all you need to know is right here!!! I'm not trying be an ass..... take a second, grab a cup of joe or a cold beer and take a look at this site and posts. You'll find a ton of info!!! Trust me...
Carnell
No, the VATS relearn is something you can do yourself.
key on, crank (no start), wait 10 minutes (600 seconds) (not a second less) with key on run, shut key off, replete 2 more times. the 4th crank try it will start (if it was a VATS issue.)
I'm not entirely convinced this is your issue though since you say the starter isn't cranking. Generally VATS issues give a crank and start then immediately die.
Try it though, because your VATS will have to be relinked since you swapped PCMs. It is something you will have to do anyway.
Awesomel you have been a great help man..
And for the post above. I never read anywhere about the vats system in this thread. I have read as much as I could also. I'm just new too the Chevy world.
If you use any crank other than 4.8, you also need any rods other than 4.8. The 4.8 got longer rods to make up for the shorter stroke.Quote:
Originally Posted by zebra
Well I'm good. Looking at the casting numbers, I do have a 5.3. Simple mistake by the shop I should be getting the block back tomorrow from the machine shop. I'll start putting the engine together this week and have a planed install date of Nov 12th and 13th. It would be sooner but I have to play Navy the next few weekends.
whoops, yeah, i forgot to mention those, but you've got a 5.3 anyway, so it don't really matterQuote:
Originally Posted by gottaswapup
Ok, if this question has been answered already I apologize. But, I live in the Houston area my county requires me to get an emissions test when I get my inspection sticker. My question is does anyone know what will happen when the guy at the station hooks my truck up to the state computer and it says I have a 4.3 V6 and he looks under the hood and is smart enough to tell its a V8. If this has been addressed then again i apologize but, if it has I have not found it yet.
Good question,
I'm not sure about TX but in CA, you have to go see the smog referee, and if he signs off on it, re register the truck as a custom built truck with a new registration showing the changes. The catch for me is that CA only allows 500 custom cars / trucks a year. When my reg in due in Feb of next year, if I don't need a smog check, I'll hold off on the new reg paperwork and do it the next year. Just look it up on the TX DMV website and see what it says...
In dallas they hook to the PCM, make sure its the same year or newer pcm/tune, check for functionality, error codes and verify driveability checks. Next, they may put you on the rollers and install a tailpipe sniffer and check emissions. Be sure you have the cats installed for the visibility section of the inspection.
haha. makes me feel better about TN emissions.
they just plug it up, look underneath to see if it "looks like" you have cats, & check the gas cap seal. i was actually talking to the guy about my engine swap this year ;)
Thanks for the info guys. I also sent a email to a guy I know through my job who works at a local shop and does inspections. He said the same thing, that as long as I don't have any check engine light and keep the emissions in place then it shouldn't be a problem. I miss the old days when you payed 12.50 for a basic inspection. I had a 83 Silverado with a gutted cat and nothing else and it passed every year no problem. At least Texas isn't as bad as California.
It took me about 6 months before i actually did swap from the time i started looking into it. And didnt realize how many people actually did accomplished it. In between that time i was looking at NNBS 5.3 trucks. Took me about a month to get everything i needed for swap.
Took me two days to do it successfully and started on first try after priming fuel. went from a 11.5 second to 8.7 seconds in 1/8. then best so far on 100 shot was 12.6 @ 107.66mph 2.02 60ft
Reading this gives me some hope. I'm in the final stages of the engine rebuild and will drop the engine in on the 13th
I have a couple of hook up questions.
I have a cut line that in on the underside of my intake. The one side is hooked up to a breather? on the block but the other side???? The line was cut when I got it.
The other question is a movable hard line attached to the fwd top part of my intake manifold. Any ideas????
Carnell
that first hose looks to be going to one side of the throttle body. really, you don't need it - look up the 'throttle body bypass'
the second is your evap hose. it's $26 from the stealership (which is the only place i could find one not torn up). i'll look up a part # for ya in a bit. it hooks to the same place as your stock v6 evap line did - right beside the fuel send/return lines that you'll have to cut
ok, so i can't find that part # and can't go look at it because it's 180mi away (i'm on TDY), but just tell them it's the flex line that hooks to the evap solenoid
the first picture like zebra stated above isn't neccesscarily needed to connect to throttle body unless ur in real cold climate. i believe its 5/16 heater hose. you'll only need about 3.5' ft. from head to radiator.
second picture... you can just get a piece of 3/8 hose to connect in between metal line to the nylon tube. doesnt hold hardly any pressure
ya just do a tb by-pass, and im doing a swap now and had the same prob so I cut the one part on the evap and the got a hose and connected it.
Thanks for the info... I'll take a look at it. I will also get a hose for the evap. I'm going to start my swap next week.
Thanks again
Carnell
This site is very useful. I finally got my swap done and running. Alot of people say you need the extender or the ls1 adapter plate. I didnt need too use it, my V6 torque converter bolted up just fine on the 5.3 flex plate.
The plugs on the v6 and v8 02 sensors are diffrent tough. I just cut and soilder the right plugs on the 02 sensor. The swap is really easy i could have been done in 2 days, but the tranny adapter that i didnt need had me messed up pretty bad..
The TC bolting up isn't the problem, its whether the snout fits in the crank properly or not. Did you check that out while you were installing?
Yup, and fit perfectly fine.Quote:
Originally Posted by PitchBlackC3
Only problem im having is at shifting the truck revs up a few hundred rpms before shifting. And idea what would cause that?
umm... not when i checked. i had a GM parts counter look it up. all 4 O2 sensors and even the physical Y-pipe are all the same from v6 to 4.8/5.3 (6.0 runs duals instead of a y but still uses same oxygen sensors)Quote:
Originally Posted by b18c1turboedek
maybe this ??Quote:
Originally Posted by b18c1turboedek
Quote:
Originally Posted by PitchBlackC3
Just wondering, what happens if for some reason it isnt in far enough? I used the truck too tow my race car and it did fine the other day, exept for those revs.
My truck is a 2003 and i bought a 2003 swap.
I hope this is the last question before I start my swap..... what did you guys do with the old V6 smog stuff? I'm talking about the air pump and stuff mounted on the passenger side wheel well & the pipes coming off both left / right exhaust manifold. The new engine is a 2002 and doesn't have any of this stuff. See attached pictures.
Thanks
Carnell
somebody else'll have to chime in on this one. mine's a 99, so all it had was EGR - same as the 01 engine i used
hmm i'd just rip all that crap out. most likely pigtails won't be on v8 harness
Out it will go!!!
I'm going to start pulling the engine next thur. Can't wait to get this project finished!!!