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ok ill try that..i just dont feel like having to pull everything apart bc dont you need to use a feeler gauge to make sure the oil pump is right on the snout?
i had to pick up a LS7 valley cover thanks to GM not having the o-rings in stock an no one could tell me when it would be available again. so imma keep the LS2 cover i bought an on my next block ill drill an tap the bosses so i wont have to use the o-rings.
I use two indicators to do my oil pumps so that they're centered vertical and horizontal at the same time. :thumb: Yes, getting the pump on correctly can be a make or break situation if you get it wrong and trash the pump. Getting the old tensioner out might be a challenge without removing the pump. Try it and see how it goes, it will be interesting to see if it can be done without pump removal.
i was told if i use the dampner Jon mentioned i need a shorter timing chain. i wouldnt think so huh?
I would not see how it could be a different chain since it uses standard size gears. Why you take the tensioner out and put the idler bracket in there you'll see how much slack you have, shouldn't be more than maybe 1/4" from side to side.
thats what i was thinking..my buddy isnt very smart lol. thanks for all your help..hell just come build the motor for me ;)
im going to unbolt the oil pump an turn it clockwise to remove the right bolt then put in the new dampner
LOL...Im pretty sure you have to remove the oil pump to get the tensioner on and off. I think I've tried a few times and always end up pulling the pump. I also use the centering method on oil pump installation. Also you don't need a different chain.
was looking at the knock sensor install, TQ specs on that is only about 15 ft/lbs. Its so easy to overtighten one and damage it. I had one on my stolen truck that was tightened so by someone that the nut section spun on the sensor. I had to take a punch and dimple the metal housing so that it was deformed and would catch, just to remove it from the block. Damn gorilla installers. :lol:
thanks Jon, ive never done it thats why i was wondering..also do i have to pull the oil pan or can i just drop it down a lil bit to get to that bolt?
Redheartbeat: yeah i hope people dont think i tightened it that much. i threaded it in by hand, put the 7/8" wrench on it an snugged it up w my finger tips. it might have turned about an 1-8"-1/4"
You really need to drop the pan and remove the oil pickup tube to do it the right way. Then you can remove the pump easily and align the NEW oring on the pickup so that there are no crimps in it. Takes a few more minutes but insures that everything is back together properly.
ok, ill go ahead an take it down..it just annoys me how GM designed such a STUPID an cheap design.
ill take pics an do a small right up for future swaps for anyone else :)
yall have been a huge help..thank you so much.
i cant wait to finish this dang thing..i wanna drive it again