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I wonder if HPTuners can do an overlay for the 80e on the 96 or not. You may have to get the PCM reprogrammed for a 1 ton setup plus doing the wiring harness mods. Not sure how you add the input speed sensor. You could just do a full manual valve body to control the transmission. Are you opposed to installing a floor type shifter and manually shifting each gear change?
i'd really prefer to keep it as stock looking as possible
is it possible to get a brain and wiring harness from a 3/4 or 1 ton with a 350/4l80e and swap it in? i think i found a 454/4l80e brain and harness from a 97 1 ton. will that work on for my 350?
contact nelsonperformance and see if they can program your pcm first.
Well after two years of mild abuse, the transmission is DEAD!
It lasted with about 1.5 years of 425hp to the wheels with the rearmount, and the rest of it's life with 520hp to the wheels with a front mount.
The trans started making noise last week, a high whining noise under light acceleration, well any acceleration and idle.
This week we tore it apart and found out what has failed.
The clutches are slightly burned up. They are black and lots of residue in the pan. Some of the steals between the clutches were warped too.
I can't say the gears were slipping, but there is definitely a lot of wear.
The big problem was the sprag. It's worn out and grinding itself away.
I thought this would be the last part that would go.
Anyway, I bought a salvage yard trans and I'll be installing it Sunday, then later this week I'll add a shiftkit. I've seen stock 80e's with shiftkits last a long time, so in the meantime I'll rebuild this broken one and move on.
Mine has been making some noise, too. Sounds like something is rattling around inside it maybe in the convertor. Still runs and drives fine but its nowhere near as quiet as the original 60e. Like I've always said, these 80e transmissions are not 100% indestructible, they have parts that are designed to wear out and then there are a few small parts that break and a couple pieces like the roller assy in the center support that has a poor support design. They sure do handle the abuse a whole lot better than any of the 60e's I've had. Even the 60e that came out of the GMT900 is toast, fluid is dark.
Good luck with the 80e buildup, they're a very simple design and you should have no problem doing it yourself. :thumb:
So what now....our we helpless, all those (like a zillion) posts that the 80e in stock form and a shift kit will hold 600 tq are what? BS?Quote:
Originally Posted by RedHeartbeat
What is the next step? Inner parts dead on so little torque !!!! Personally I asked a fully billet internally (all OEM parts replaced by custom made billet parts) and the top of the top that advertisement can give me.....but have no faith.
I haven't done the install yet, waiting on the SFI flywheel, But I wanna be ahead of the game.....what should I have to buy now, a Lenco for sad 700tq engine !!!!!!
Can the wounded tell me witch way to go when I get hit by the bullet !?
Funny thing is that A.N. advice me to buy this vendors bulletProof Trans, and make it live like 3000 miles and 10 passes!!!
And now Karma strikes back on him.....how it taste A.N.?:slice:
Hey, I have an 06 silverado with a 4L80E swap. The battery not charging light keeps flashing although the voltage display is reading accurately and the brake warning light is on. I was told that this was from the swap. Can anyone inform me on how to fix the problem? I was told that there are two pins that I can switch but I am not sure which ones. Thanks.
Purchasing a Monster Transmission 4L80E Heavy Duty for my 98' Chevy 2 door 4x4 tomorrow. I'll be doing a Yank Torque Converter. I'll be asking the guy's at Monster what kind of Stall I should be looking for as this is my daily driver. Any input?
i would say about a 3000-3200 and i would NOT go with a monster tranmission to many horror stories